Battery Terminal Shims

Scoutmapper · Aug 4, 2021

Anyone every use battery terminal shims?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0815626MS/?tag=wranglerorg-20My negative clamp wont tighten down enough and I heard about these.
Thoughts? Experiences?

1o1proof · Aug 4, 2021

Why not change out the terminal? Not trying to be a smart ass, just curious.

Scoutmapper · Aug 4, 2021

I have no idea how to change a terminal. You sure you don't mean the clamp?

machoheadgames · Aug 4, 2021

Scoutmapper said:
I have no idea how to change a terminal. You sure you don't mean the clamp?

Terminal/clamp are basically the same thing. The parts on the battery would be the posts and those are not interchangeable. I’m sure those shims will probably get the job done fine if you want to go that route.

Personally what I would recommend is find someone who has a hydraulic crimper, and get some military style battery terminals (Fastronix brand on Amazon is good). Then get some heavy duty crimp-on lugs (custombatterycables sells them).

Cut off the factory terminals, crimp on the lugs, put on some heat shrink, then bolt them to the military terminals.

Jerry Bransford · Aug 4, 2021

So long as your battery connectors are in otherwise good condition, here's how to make them fit tightly again with no need for shims.

Remove the nut and bolt from the connector, then use a blade/Dremel cutoff disk/saw/knife, etc. to remove a thin layer of lead from both sides inside the gap that allows the connector to be squeezed tightly around the post. Removing a thin layer of lead from both sides inside the gap will allow the connector to tighten securely/tightly around the post again.

The problem starts when the connector's post hole wears increasing its diameter. Then the two sides of the clamp (where bolt passes between them) butt against each other preventing the clamp from closing tightly enough. Removing layers of lead from inside the gap stops the two sides from butting against each other before the connector gets tight enough.

This is free to do and it fixes the problem.

Steel City 06 · Aug 4, 2021

I've used them on other cars. They work, but can be super finicky. I had to remove them and readjust the clamps and post shim every few months.

Ultimately I ended up snapping off a terminal inside the battery itself, leaving it useless. A new battery with brass terminals permanently solved that issue.

Scoutmapper · Aug 4, 2021

great info gents. I appreciate the feedback.

JEEPCJTJ · Aug 4, 2021

Has anyone, besides me 35+ yrs ago, ever just got a sheet metal screw or two and screwed them in between the post and the clamp? IIRC the nut/bolt was so rusty it wouldn't tighten or loosen.

I'm just asking, not suggesting.

Jerry Bransford · Aug 4, 2021

JEEPCJTJ said:
Has anyone, besides me 35+ yrs ago, ever just got a sheet metal screw or two and screwed them in between the post and the clamp? IIRC the nut/bolt was so rusty it wouldn't tighten or loosen.

I'm just asking, not suggesting.

I have but not since figuring out the fix I came up with and suggested above.

Badgerbiter · Aug 4, 2021

I bought a new bolt yesterday to replace the bolt in the pos. connection. Mine is pretty much welded to the fixed end of the clamp. I thought I was screwed but very similar to Jerry, I just forced the jaws apart with a screwdriver and tightened it down with a extra washer, good to go.
I have a a pretty huge swage buried in the storage locker waiting for the new house next spring. I hope it lasts!

C.J. Roberts · Aug 4, 2021

Jerry Bransford said:
Here's how to make the connectors fit tightly again, no need for shims.

Remove the nut and bolt from the connector, then use a blade/Dremel cutoff disk/saw/knife, etc. to remove a thin layer of lead from both sides inside the gap that allows the connector to be squeezed tightly around the post. Removing a thin layer of lead from both sides inside the gap will allow the connector to tighten securely/tightly around the post again.

This is free to do and it fixes the problem.

I do the same thing with a rough cut file.

Jerry Bransford · Aug 5, 2021

C.J. Roberts said:
I do the same thing with a rough cut file.

That'd work well too.

Dr. Internet · Aug 5, 2021

Jerry Bransford said:
That'd work well too.

Or, you could just buy these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLWKXV6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Jerry Bransford · Aug 5, 2021

Dr. Internet said:
Or, you could just buy these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLWKXV6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Again, there's no need to buy anything to fix the problem. Read my suggested way to fix it posted above, it costs nothing and is totally effective. And it takes far less time to do than replacing them does. I always prefer repairing something over replacing it when the repair is effective and trustworthy.

srimes · Aug 5, 2021

Jerry Bransford said:
Here's how to make the connectors fit tightly again, no need for shims.

Remove the nut and bolt from the connector, then use a blade/Dremel cutoff disk/saw/knife, etc. to remove a thin layer of lead from both sides inside the gap that allows the connector to be squeezed tightly around the post. Removing a thin layer of lead from both sides inside the gap will allow the connector to tighten securely/tightly around the post again.

The problem starts when the connector's post hole wears increasing its diameter. Then the two sides of the clamp (where bolt passes between them) butt against each other preventing the clamp from closing tightly enough. Removing layers of lead from inside the gap stops the two sides from butting against each other before the connector gets tight enough.

This is free to do and it fixes the problem.

Just stand the connector on it's side and hit it with the crescent wrench or channel-lock plyers you grabbed to remove the terminal and close it up a little. Then find that it's now to small so pry it open just a little with a screwdriver until you can get it started on the top of the post, and tap it on the rest of the way for a nice snug fit.

Jerry Bransford · Aug 5, 2021

srimes said:
Just stand the connector on it's side and hit it with the crescent wrench or channel-lock plyers you grabbed to remove the terminal and close it up a little. Then find that it's now to small so pry it open just a little with a screwdriver until you can get it started on the top of the post, and tap it on the rest of the way for a nice snug fit.

You're not understanding the issue. It CAN'T be closed up further once the battery post opening wears enough. Once that happens the sides of the gap the bolt squeezes together (the red parts) are already touching each other preventing the clamp from being made to clamp the post tightly enough. Re-read what I said above. Removing a layer of lead on both sides of the gap (where the red is) is what will allow them to be squeezed closer together again.

As the blue post opening area wears and gets made bigger, the two red areas will begin to touch and prevent the bolt from squeezing them together more to compensate for the worn post opening. Shaving lead away in the two red areas allows them to be pulled together more enough to make the connector tight again.

While the two red lines are not touching below, they will be when you can't get the connector tight enough around the battery post.

srimes · Aug 5, 2021

Jerry Bransford said:
You're not understanding the issue. It CAN'T be closed up further once the battery post opening wears enough. Once that happens the sides of the gap the bolt squeezes together (the red parts) are already touching each other preventing the clamp from being made to clamp the post tightly enough. Re-read what I said above. Removing a layer of lead on both sides of the gap (where the red is) is what will allow them to be squeezed closer together again.

As the blue post opening area wears and gets made bigger, the two red areas will begin to touch and prevent the bolt from squeezing them together more to compensate for the worn post opening. Shaving lead away in the two red areas allows them to be pulled together more enough to make the connector tight again.

While the two red lines are not touching below, they will be when you can't get the connector tight enough around the battery post.

View attachment 269125

Wanna bet?

Jerry Bransford · Aug 5, 2021

Yes I'll bet. That middle illustration you created doesn't match anything I've ever seen in 40+ years of having worked on this problem. That's because it won't bend in the manner your middle illustration shows if the post hole opening is worn too big which is the root cause of the problem. Your last example doesn't work either since it won't fit around the round battery post.

Fulton_Hogan · Aug 5, 2021

Scoutmapper said:
Anyone every use battery terminal shims?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0815626MS/?tag=wranglerorg-20My negative clamp wont tighten down enough and I heard about these.
Thoughts? Experiences?

I had a terminal end that was loose, it was probably the original, but it was corroded to the point where it wasn't completely tight on the battery. I just bit the bullet and ended up buying both positive and negative ends and replacing them in one maintenance session.

I had never replaced a terminal end, but if the vehicle is stock, it was completely easy.

For the Negative, you need MOPAR 5161306AA

For the Positive, you need MOPAR 5161305AA

You can get them at Amazon or any of the MOPAR Factory parts pages.

The vehicle's wiring is attached to a terminal end by one captured bolt (on the terminal) and held in place by a single nut.

To replace the terminals, you undo the ends from the battery, replace each terminal end (one at a time if you want to be sure you don't mix them up), and reconnect each terminal to the battery. That's it.

Sure, this ends up being more expensive than the fix @Jerry Bransford recommended, or even what you were considering, but I offer it up just in case.

Scoutmapper · Aug 15, 2021

Dremmel cutoff wheel as @Jerry Bransford said worked like a charm. Thanks!

Battery Terminal Shims

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