Do I need the master overhaul kit when re-gearing

I've got a 04 with 4.56's and 33's and a 06 with 4.11's and 35's. The 04 is better but the 06 is not that bad. It is not as bad as I thought it would be but I don't drive the 06 much. My son drives it. If I drove the 06 everyday my opinion might be different.
When it is time for new tires I really want 35's on the 04 but don't want to lose any power.
 
Thats a little too high for my liking, how is say 65 mph with 5:13, 35s, and 5 speed
You're not hurting anything at those RMPs. I strongly recommend 5.13s.

FWIW--I have 5.13s, and 35s and have no trouble with them on a daily driver. I've done thousands of hwy miles on them and cruising power is there when I need it. The benefits of that carry over offroad too
 
I have an 05 with 6 speed and the 4.0 with 4.11 gears and 33’s. I’ve never felt sluggish or a dog at all. That’s just my experience personally, and I’m going to 35’s in the next year. Your red rig looks awesome, the gear change will be huge.
Thanks! It’s an ‘06 with only 30,500 miles on the clock. That’s why I overlooked the 3.07 gears. This Jeep is so nice that I don’t mind spending money for better gearing.

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Hey all,
I'm gonna go with 4:88s down the road for my current 33s, so I can make the jump to 35s in the future because 373s, nv3550 with 33s SUCKS. Don't let anyone fool you otherwise. I plan to go with revolution gears 4:88, and can someone tell me if I need the master overhaul kit with bearings and all that? Id like to have all the parts in hand and bring it to a shop to install. Also ive heard talk of "thick cut" gears or something like that, which is a set that doesnt need to be broken in? I have heard that they tend to be weaker, correct me if im wrong. If someone would also post links as to where to get them id appreciate it.
My strongest possible recommendation is for you NOT to buy any of the parts, gears, master install kit, etc. with the intention of providing the parts to a shop you'll be using to install them. Let the shop provide ALL (!) of the parts needed for the job, don't provide them ANYTHING other than your Jeep.

The reason is that if ANYTHING goes wrong during or after the gears are installed, the shop can and likely will point their fingers at and blame something about the parts you provided. If that happens you're in a world of hurt because even with the parts having their own warranties, then you are stuck in the middle of the parts dealers blaming the installation process and the installer blaming your parts. And it is rare for the parts to cause any problems, it's nearly always the installer's fault since the installation job is very exacting and if not done perfectly, the new gears will be toast in short order.

And even if you got the dealer you bought the gears/parts from to replace them under warranty, you'll still be faced with paying the additional labor to replace the gears since, again, the installer won't usually admit to having screwed up the installation.

If they provide ALL of the parts, their warranty will cover everything, parts and labor, no questions-asked.

Odds are good you can tell them you want Revolution Gear and they'll get them. If they can't because they're not a dealer for Revolution, let them install the gear brand they are comfortable with. 4.88 is a standard ratio and any mainstream brand like Genuine Gear, Yukon, etc. will be fine.

And to explain the thick-gear thing yet again.... it's a thicker version of the ring gear. That is so you won't need a different carrier designed for lower ratios like 4.88. The pinion gear on 4.88 gears is smaller in diameter so with a standard carrier, it won't position the ring gear close enough to the smaller diameter pinion gear so they fully mesh. A carrier meant for a lower ratio like 4.88 positions the ring gear closer to the pinion gear so they mesh properly.

But if you have a carrier meant for ratios like 3.07 or 3.73, as you do, your existing carrier won't position the ring gear close enough to the pinion gear so its teeth can mesh properly with the pinion gear. In that case you can install a 'thick' ring gear that positions its teeth further out so they are properly positioned to mesh with the pinion gear.
 
Or verify with the installer that you can provide the new in the box parts and they would still cover warranty. They may or may not.
 
Or verify with the installer that you can provide the new in the box parts and they would still cover warranty. They may or may not.
I think the lengthy point made is EVEN IF they say okay, don't do it. Everyone's all agreeable until shit goes wrong. You want a shop to warranty it 100%, they they do it 100%. Just looking for trouble when it's not necessary.
 
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I've heard of shops blaming the customer for improper break in procedure to get out of warranty so I guess the better suggestion is to find a quality well trusted mechanic or shop either way.
 
I think the lengthy point made is EVEN IF they say okay, don't do it. Everyone's all agreeable until shit goes wrong. You want a shop to warranty it 100%, they they do it 100%. Just looking for trouble when it's not necessary.
Exactly, at least make it more difficult for them to turn your warranty claim down. Providing the parts to the shop to install makes that part way too easy.
 
You're not hurting anything at those RMPs. I strongly recommend 5.13s.

FWIW--I have 5.13s, and 35s and have no trouble with them on a daily driver. I've done thousands of hwy miles on them and cruising power is there when I need it. The benefits of that carry over offroad too
I have been reading a bit more and am now leaning towards 5:13 :) I am well aware of the slower crawling offroad, and that was originally leading me towards them, but my concern primarily was cruising on the freeway at 3k rpm. Does that do no harm to the engine? And can will 5:13 fit in my dana 30? Another reason I had wanted 4:88s was because I did not want to do an axle swap as I thought 4:88s were the lowest you can go in a dana 30
 
I have been reading a bit more and am now leaning towards 5:13 :) I am well aware of the slower crawling offroad, and that was originally leading me towards them, but my concern primarily was cruising on the freeway at 3k rpm. Does that do no harm to the engine? And can will 5:13 fit in my dana 30? Another reason I had wanted 4:88s was because I did not want to do an axle swap as I thought 4:88s were the lowest you can go in a dana 30
The TJ Rubicon with NSG370 does almost 3,000 RPM on the freeway from the factory. If Chrysler engineers weren't worried, you shouldn't be either. You wouldn't want to do 4000 all day long, but 3000 indefinitely is fine. I hold mine at 3k RPM for 12+ hours a day when I'm traveling.

5.13 is the deepest you can go in a Dana 30 or Dana 35. (If you had two D44s you could use 5.38 or 5.89.)
 
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Yeah im a little worried about that since I plan to regear for 35s, but want to get the life out of my 33s, and they are about 6k miles old...
I wouldn't be too worried about excessive RPMs. The difference between 4.88 and 5.13 is only going to be maybe 150 RPM.

So instead of 3k at 75 it might be 3k at 70. I would only be concerned if you plan to drive 85+ for hours at a time.
 
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