Nashville TJ's Build - Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
No, I did not make the tag. My wife has an on-line place from which she orders those. We've done an identical tag for all the toy boxes.
Even the dogs get their own custom tag:
Toby is my daughter's Golden, and Kobe is my sister's Chow. Both cool doggies.
I now have all the parts I need to dive into the 14 bolt, but since I'm not looking forward to doing it for the 3rd time I'm on the lookout for anything which allows me to push it off a bit... 
So, trailer project...
I have two spares for the new trailer, but there is currently only one mount. Kaufman could not do a spare mount on the driver's side because a spare mount there would interfere with the operation of the jack handle. I did have Kaufman throw in an additional spare mount bracket, knowing I could come up with something to resolve that issue.
The jack actuator handle is attached to the actuator bar with a joint which allows the handle to be folded and stowed on that L-bracket you can see mounted on the actuator bar support bracket on the right. A spare mounted in that location precludes stowing the handle.
After considering a few solutions, including adding a few u-joints to the actuator bar to relocate it back far enough to avoid the spare (that actually would have been very cool), I went all Occam's Razor on it and just made the handle removable, using a clevis pin to secure it when in use. Problem solved.
So, trailer project...
I have two spares for the new trailer, but there is currently only one mount. Kaufman could not do a spare mount on the driver's side because a spare mount there would interfere with the operation of the jack handle. I did have Kaufman throw in an additional spare mount bracket, knowing I could come up with something to resolve that issue.
The jack actuator handle is attached to the actuator bar with a joint which allows the handle to be folded and stowed on that L-bracket you can see mounted on the actuator bar support bracket on the right. A spare mounted in that location precludes stowing the handle.
After considering a few solutions, including adding a few u-joints to the actuator bar to relocate it back far enough to avoid the spare (that actually would have been very cool), I went all Occam's Razor on it and just made the handle removable, using a clevis pin to secure it when in use. Problem solved.
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The other spare mount uses 1.5" x 3" channel stock to provide a secure surface to attach the spare mount, and the way it is mounted is clever so I duplicated it on the driver's side.
The channel passes through the flange of the i-beam and is welded directly to the web - which makes it quite strong. Rather than just cutting a wide slot to accept the channel, Kaufman took the time to cut a shaped slot into that flange for the channel to pass through, making for a very clean install.
So, liking that approach, I duplicated it:
The channel passes through the flange of the i-beam and is welded directly to the web - which makes it quite strong. Rather than just cutting a wide slot to accept the channel, Kaufman took the time to cut a shaped slot into that flange for the channel to pass through, making for a very clean install.
So, liking that approach, I duplicated it:
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After setting the spare it the location I wanted, it was just a matter of joining the mount I got from Kaufman to the channel:
The Kaufman mount is made from 3/8" steel, and I have a bunch of that laying around. So I started cuttin'.
For straight cuts, you can't beat a metal cutting circular saw. Quick, clean, dead straight, and no burs:
First piece tacked in place:
The Kaufman mount is simple - basically a single piece of 3/8" x 2" bar which attaches to the mounting flange. It works, it's not going anywhere, but it does not have a lot of lateral stability which allows it to wiggle side to side just a bit.
Well, you know me - wigglin' won't cut it. To solve the lateral stability issue, I added another piece of 3/8" bar, bent on the press break, across the bottom. Here it is completed - and it is solid.
I also added that same 3/8" support to the original bracket on the other side:
And then some paint...
...and of course, the finishing touch:
The Kaufman mount is made from 3/8" steel, and I have a bunch of that laying around. So I started cuttin'.
For straight cuts, you can't beat a metal cutting circular saw. Quick, clean, dead straight, and no burs:
First piece tacked in place:
The Kaufman mount is simple - basically a single piece of 3/8" x 2" bar which attaches to the mounting flange. It works, it's not going anywhere, but it does not have a lot of lateral stability which allows it to wiggle side to side just a bit.
Well, you know me - wigglin' won't cut it. To solve the lateral stability issue, I added another piece of 3/8" bar, bent on the press break, across the bottom. Here it is completed - and it is solid.
I also added that same 3/8" support to the original bracket on the other side:
And then some paint...
...and of course, the finishing touch:
Well, I guess I now have to go after the sissy 14-bolt regear...
Hey, wait a minute! I still have to mount my weight distributing hitch!!
Yes!!!
Hey, wait a minute! I still have to mount my weight distributing hitch!!
Yes!!!
That looks sharp Jeff!!!!!
May you never need them. Great work.
John9999
TJ Enthusiast
One of the best mods I’ve done to my trailer is to remove the crank assembly altogether and replace it with a 1/2” bolt. This allows me to put my drill on it with a 3/4” socket and quickly raise / lower the trailer jack. I have a 3/4” lug wrench in my box just in case I ever need to move it without the drill handy (which has never happened), but there’s nothing like getting rid of needing to manually crank the jack.
Nice work! I think there's an opportunity to get creative with the tire covers...
Well, after trailers and toyboxes and 3D printers and Christmas, it was about time I did an actual Jeep project. So...
...this:
Vic invited me down to Hawk Pride to wheel on New Year's Day. Now, I can wheel with a singing rear ring & pinion (well, I hope anyway), but I can't wheel with a bleedin' axle seal. So, I tore into it earlier this week:
I've done this a few times, so it was pretty quick. First up, pull the wheels, calipers, spindle and axle shafts. Then disconnect the tie rod, and pull the removable section out of my front truss / hydro-assist mount - all this just to be able to pull the diff cover.
I run an ARB, which is installed with 15 thou of pre-load to the carrier bearings. The best way to deal with that properly is with a case spreader:
A case spreader can wreak havoc if you are not careful, and can literally deform the diff. To avoid that it is best to mic it while doing the spread. I've read that more than 25 thou can start to cause damage. Since I installed the ARB with 15 thou of preload, I opened the case up 15 thou and the diff came out with very little resistance. It goes back in very easy this way as well.
And...the seals. I keep spares of these things, so no delay in picking up a set. I'll replace the spares after the project.
...this:
Vic invited me down to Hawk Pride to wheel on New Year's Day. Now, I can wheel with a singing rear ring & pinion (well, I hope anyway), but I can't wheel with a bleedin' axle seal. So, I tore into it earlier this week:
I've done this a few times, so it was pretty quick. First up, pull the wheels, calipers, spindle and axle shafts. Then disconnect the tie rod, and pull the removable section out of my front truss / hydro-assist mount - all this just to be able to pull the diff cover.
I run an ARB, which is installed with 15 thou of pre-load to the carrier bearings. The best way to deal with that properly is with a case spreader:
A case spreader can wreak havoc if you are not careful, and can literally deform the diff. To avoid that it is best to mic it while doing the spread. I've read that more than 25 thou can start to cause damage. Since I installed the ARB with 15 thou of preload, I opened the case up 15 thou and the diff came out with very little resistance. It goes back in very easy this way as well.
And...the seals. I keep spares of these things, so no delay in picking up a set. I'll replace the spares after the project.
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As I said, I've done this project before, and I've previously built this install tool:
It makes the seal install quick and painless:
Now, it's just a matter of putting everything back together.
It makes the seal install quick and painless:
Now, it's just a matter of putting everything back together.
Abe Lincoln once said that if he had six hours to chop down a tree, he would spend the first four hours sharpening his axe...
A dedicated spindle nut socket makes disassembly and assembly of the front hub much easier - and accurate compared to hammering the two nuts in and out with a screwdriver and a hammer. I have a spindle nut socket, but it has always been just a tad short to make getting to the inner nut easy. So rather than fight that once again, I decided to Abe Lincoln it - and also have a fun little fab project to do.
First up - use a hole saw fixtured to center the bit on the socket and bore a hole big enough to clear the end of the outer axle shaft:
To create the additional clearance, I welded a 1.5" socket to the modified spindle nut socket. I could have gotten away with a short socket, but I had this deep socket on hand and did not want to take the time for a trip to the store. It works, it's just a bit deeper than I needed.
But after using it to reinstall and torque the spindle nuts, it turns out the extra length makes it much easier to handle with that deep ProRoc 60 spindle. So it turned out well.
And then reverse the process, and everything is back together - hopefully leak free.
This week we had family staying with us for the holiday, and my 3 year old grandaughter Olivia kept asking me (and I mean, like a hundred times), "Pop Pop - did you put the wheels back on the Jeep yet?" It was crazy cute.
They left this morning for the long drive back to Tallassee, and I sent Olivia this picture to show her I had finally put the wheels back on the Jeep:
And now I'm all loaded up to meet Vic down at Hawk Pride tomorrow. It's the first trip on the new trailer - hopefully the China Bombs can handle one trip.
It's supposed to be a beautiful day.
A dedicated spindle nut socket makes disassembly and assembly of the front hub much easier - and accurate compared to hammering the two nuts in and out with a screwdriver and a hammer. I have a spindle nut socket, but it has always been just a tad short to make getting to the inner nut easy. So rather than fight that once again, I decided to Abe Lincoln it - and also have a fun little fab project to do.
First up - use a hole saw fixtured to center the bit on the socket and bore a hole big enough to clear the end of the outer axle shaft:
To create the additional clearance, I welded a 1.5" socket to the modified spindle nut socket. I could have gotten away with a short socket, but I had this deep socket on hand and did not want to take the time for a trip to the store. It works, it's just a bit deeper than I needed.
But after using it to reinstall and torque the spindle nuts, it turns out the extra length makes it much easier to handle with that deep ProRoc 60 spindle. So it turned out well.
And then reverse the process, and everything is back together - hopefully leak free.
This week we had family staying with us for the holiday, and my 3 year old grandaughter Olivia kept asking me (and I mean, like a hundred times), "Pop Pop - did you put the wheels back on the Jeep yet?" It was crazy cute.
They left this morning for the long drive back to Tallassee, and I sent Olivia this picture to show her I had finally put the wheels back on the Jeep:
And now I'm all loaded up to meet Vic down at Hawk Pride tomorrow. It's the first trip on the new trailer - hopefully the China Bombs can handle one trip.
It's supposed to be a beautiful day.
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Happy New Year Pop Pop. Hope yer wheels stay on!
Happy New Year to you Jeff, Have a great Hangover Run...
I had a great New Year's Day run at Hawk Pride in AL. Absolutely beautiful weather and dry trails. Hawk is one of my favorite parks around here. The conditions could not have been more perfect.
Spent the day with my good bud Victor...
...Beeker...
...and Drew:
Here is one of the very few pictures I have of my rig for the day. After 15 years of hard wheelin, the pitman arm side drag link tie rod end finally gave up the ghost. Swapped in my spare without too much drama and continued on with the day.
It was a great start to 2026. Victor did a write up over on his thread. Check it out.
Spent the day with my good bud Victor...
...Beeker...
...and Drew:
Here is one of the very few pictures I have of my rig for the day. After 15 years of hard wheelin, the pitman arm side drag link tie rod end finally gave up the ghost. Swapped in my spare without too much drama and continued on with the day.
It was a great start to 2026. Victor did a write up over on his thread. Check it out.
Victor sent me a few pics from New Year's. But with it being such a great day, I can't for the life of me figure out why I look so unhappy in this pic...
May I interest you in a medical solution?
The box even, kind of, matches your rig!
We can tell you're smiling on the inside.
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