Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Weld a hole closed to drill and tap?

JMT

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The PO didn’t tap the lower rear perch for the Rock Jock bumpstops. It was an PITA to remove trying to hold the nut underneath. I need to correct it. Is the best way to weld the hole closed and then drill and tap? It’s not centered on the perch either. 😬

IMG_8084.jpeg
 
The PO didn’t tap the lower rear perch for the Rock Jock bumpstops. It was an PITA to remove trying to hold the nut underneath. I need to correct it. Is the best way to weld the hole closed and then drill and tap? It’s not centered on the perch either. 😬

View attachment 661886

The PO didn’t tap the lower rear perch for the Rock Jock bumpstops. It was an PITA to remove trying to hold the nut underneath. I need to correct it. Is the best way to weld the hole closed and then drill and tap? It’s not centered on the perch either. 😬

View attachment 661886

Install a nutsert
 
You haven't looked under a spring perch lately, have you?

Not lately. I thought that the bottom might be tough to get to though, which is why I mentioned drilling it out and welding a nut in the hole. Nutsert like you suggested would work too, I imagine. I've had those get rusty and spin out though when taking them back apart.
 
Well, in that case, best of luck welding nuts into the sheet metal all over the place.
Not doing it "in sheet metal all over the place". I'm talking about doing it in 14 gauge or whatever thickness that spring perch is in a spot that sees lots of things that can cause corrosion.
 
Not doing it "in sheet metal all over the place". I'm talking about doing it in 14 gauge or whatever thickness that spring perch is in a spot that sees lots of things that can cause corrosion.
This goes back to the saying, when you're only tool is a hammer, every solution is a nail. If you have a corrosion issue, set the nutsert with some red loctite on the flange and use some anti-seize on the fastener, or even blue loctite to keep water out of the threads. Just because one struggles with simple effective solutions doesn't make them bad for everyone else. I have more solutions within arm's reach to put threads in that drilled out hole. The welder, hardware cabinet and 1000's of fasteners are within spitting distance and I'd walk past all of them to the nutsert bins because I'm smarter than a nutsert.
 
This goes back to the saying, when you're only tool is a hammer, every solution is a nail. If you have a corrosion issue, set the nutsert with some red loctite on the flange and use some anti-seize on the fastener, or even blue loctite to keep water out of the threads. Just because one struggles with simple effective solutions doesn't make them bad for everyone else. I have more solutions within arm's reach to put threads in that drilled out hole. The welder, hardware cabinet and 1000's of fasteners are within spitting distance and I'd walk past all of them to the nutsert bins because I'm smarter than a nutsert.

Good for you. You seem very passionate about nutserts and I'm not really so I won't argue with you about it. 👍
 
another look. I think the off-center is ok, but open to those who know better. RockJock Bumpstops that retain the spring are what I’m using. They were ok before as far as I can tell.

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My bigger question at this point is what size bolt? It was drilled for a 1/2” but I’d have to drill it out larger to accommodate a nutsert for a 1/2” bolt. I have some 7/16” and 3/8” nutserts on hand. Could get the proper size washer for either if they are sufficient for this application.
 
My bigger question at this point is what size bolt? It was drilled for a 1/2” but I’d have to drill it out larger to accommodate a nutsert for a 1/2” bolt. I have some 7/16” and 3/8” nutserts on hand. Could get the proper size washer for either if they are sufficient for this application.

What bumpstops are you running? Even if it’s the Curries with the large washers that act as spring retainers, even a 1/4” bolt and nutsert is going to hold after the washer bends if it’s possible to even put that much force on the setup.
 
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I’d throw in whatever you have hardware for with existing nutsert stock. Even if you use the spring retaining function of the bumpstops the max tensile force those bolts will see is the spring rate of the spring. The steel nutsert probably has a higher tensile strength than the material it’s mounting in.
 
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Since the hole is not centered on the pad (no idea how far off center), what's your next solution?

I worked on 50 rigs with the bumpstop holes off center. Are you going to redrill and move the bump stop each time you adjust the axle? No you aren't because it doesn't really matter that much.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts