B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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I might of missed it but can you show the final configuration of how you set the e brake cable routing ?
Stretched TJK (bigger rubber & extra inches)
- Thread starter sierradmax
- Start date
I used LJ E-brake cables. IIRC, I think 2-Door JK E-brake cables are longer than the LJ cables and I think some have used them on caliper flipped LJ's. The cables are crossed behind the upper link mounts and run down each side of the truss to a set of clips that hold the cable ends. Due to the pinion angle this placed the e-brake plunger (???) right in line with the coilover mount @ the axle. Not the best scenario but had to create a small bracket to offset and clear the coilover mount. E-brake works and I've yet to have to adjust the bracket.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Spent some time down on a NJ beach last weekend. Stayed clear of the salt water, though! And yes, the jeep did get "ducked" when I wasn't looking.
I started a "stroker" thread in the general forum but the motor is intended for this Jeep. I had a motor built for forced induction but didn't want to deal with the increased difficulty with tuning, cooling, as well as cramming the accessories in the engine bay. With help from Russ Pottenger, I have a "re-build" recipe for a good, solid 4.6L stroker using all forged internals and the eddy aluminum cylinder head.
subscribed very similar to where i want build to "Finish", stroke/Jk axles, 103-104".
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
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I’m interested to hear your results, if a stroker can make the 42rle OD less miserable it’ll make it in the TO-Do list for sure.
It's going to take some time.. Russ's porting will take 4-6 weeks. The new pistons have a ship date of late-September. Plus looking at my build, I think it will be easier to pull the cab off in lieu of dropping the transmission. In order to pull the motor, with the cab still bolted, the rear axle would have to be dropped, then pull the links to remove the crossmember before taking out the case and transmission.
I'm hopefull to be able to gain some much needed power, and be able to keep up with folks on highways.
Digging up my build thread to share a 1/10 scale build of my TJK. About a year ago, I bought a 3D printer.. A Bambu Lab's X1C. Lately, I've been following the 1/10 scale "IJ" craze on social media. I figured why not build a 1/10 scale replica of my TJ. Yes, the proportions are more like a TJ-6 but I figured it would be a cool conversation piece. The body is printed out of PETG-GF filament and I would guess around 50 hours of print time.
Files can be found Here
Files can be found Here
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Dude this is sick. I’m looking at the Bambu labs on sale for Black Friday. Would be cool to run it on my boys traxxas.
I have an X1C as well. I would say, look at the H2D if you can swing it. While the X1C technically does multicolor prints (multi-filament) it needs to purge every time it does a change, since it only has one nozzle. The H2D has two nozzles so you can do two colors at once, without purging. More specifically for most of my use, You could also run support material and model material in different filaments (like a soluable support). I bought this with the intention of multi-material models, but in practice, its not as practical as I thought it would be. It adds a TON of print time and material usage goes way up.
That being said, it does work pretty well and pretty seamlessly, but I've seriously been thinking about selling my X1C and upgrading.
My state requires motor vehicle inspection for non-commercial vehicles every two years. Since I installed a Yukon free-spin kit roughly 1.5 years ago, this changed the axles from 5x5 to 5x5.5. I had a set of JL factory "rollers" that would tuck the wheels in enough to clear the metalcloak fenders and this was sufficient to pass inspection. Fast forward to December 2025, my inspection is due. I've had alot of difficulty sourcing 17" wheels, 5x5.5 lug pattern, a minimum of 5" of backspacing, and most importantly... for cheap. Since the fenders have to cover the tire, I'm thinking outside the box. Why not build "clip-on" flare extensions.
My company uses and scraps alot of 1/2" white PVC board. Additionally, I decided to make something removable via 3D printed "clips" that attach to the metalcloak flare. I'll admit it's a but crude but should get the job done. And no, they won't remain white.
My company uses and scraps alot of 1/2" white PVC board. Additionally, I decided to make something removable via 3D printed "clips" that attach to the metalcloak flare. I'll admit it's a but crude but should get the job done. And no, they won't remain white.
While I love the ingenuity, I’m sorry you need to jump through those hoops
Nice solution...ha. In Texas, they just scrapped inspection....but in big counties (of course mine) still need emission. I have been battling an Evap for 10 years. Fixed for 6 or so, and back.
Here, I can state that it's outside the state at the time being used (learned this from my son having our 2008 JK at Ft. Campbell up in KY/TN), and it's waived. Not sure your state has that, but might be worth a look as well.
I did same thing for the waiver, though since the wranglerfix ecm swap when i did auto, no codes "knock on wood".
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