Removing Lift Back to Stock

Cameron23 · Oct 20, 2025

Okay so as some of you know I picked up my ‘99 TJ Sahara and it had some major suspension issues from previous owner neglect and cut corners. It had a 4 inch lift that has brand new RC shocks but that’s about it. Everything else was substantially old and worn out. It doesn’t have an SYE, or adjustable anything. Everything over-greased on the day of the sale.

My goal is to have a reliable daily to get me to and from work, that’s also fun, and easy to work on. So I’m pulling the lift off and bringing it back down to stock. Here’s what I’m starting with. We’ll call these the before pictures.

I’ve replaced the pitman arm with a stock pitman arm 0/5 stars would not recommend. It was stuck tight and I had to cut it off as it was just warping the hell out of my puller.

I replaced both front axles and u joints with Dana/Spicers, and both upper and lower ball joints.

I have a ZJ drag link, and tie rod ready to go in as soon as I get them painted. New track bar coming this week.

Lots of lessons learned so far. Will post questions in here as I continue taking it back to stock.

Cameron23 · Oct 20, 2025

I’m going to attempt to use the control arms that are currently on there. Can anyone confirm what lower control arms are on here and if the fronts are stock? The backs appear to be aftermarket but if they’ll work for stock ride ride height I’ll run them. Pics of the lower control arms below.

Fronts

Rears

TheBoogieman · Oct 20, 2025

Use all stock control arms (the uppers are stock). They're only around $22 each unless you buy them from China. Might be $50 soon with more tariffs.

Cameron23 · Oct 20, 2025

TheBoogieman said:
Use all stock control arms (the uppers are stock). They're only around $22 each unless you buy them from China. Might be $50 soon with more tariffs.

Any brand people recommend for stock replacements?

GoldenGorilla · Oct 22, 2025

Cameron23 said:
Any brand people recommend for stock replacements?

I just did a set of the Moog arms on my dad's stock LJR refresh. Fit and finish on them is good and the ride felt better/tighter after. 20 years of big temp swings and very dry air in CO ruins rubber bushings. I don't have strong feelings about Moog though. I'd just generally avoid OMIX/ADA as I've had some issues with their quality in other parts and don't trust them.
You've got stock uppers and usually with a cheap lift they'll sell the kit with longer fixed lowers to correct the various geometry problems the lift introduced. Going back to stock height they're now too long causing geometry problems. Ratchet straps are handy to adjust the axle rotation while lining up the new arms.

Looks like you're going about it the right way and will end up with a nice ride when done.

Chippy · Oct 22, 2025

I just installed moog control arms. If the hole just barely doesn’t line up with the new arm you can use a ratchet strap as mentioned above. I didn’t feel like doing that though and asked my wife to rock the rear tire and it lined the holes up for a sec and in went the bolt. Figured that’s easier if you have someone willing to spend 5 seconds out in the garage with you

Cameron23 · Oct 22, 2025

Appreciate the tips here. I’m traveling for work but am planning on doing the rest this weekend, rusted bolts allowing. I had to cut the track bar bolt to get it out. i ordered a MOOG stock track bar and Region Offroad flag nut and 12.9 class hanger bolt. Should be here Friday.

cpwolf · Oct 22, 2025

On your front lower control arms, not sure if you're year had Cam Bolts, but if they went to fixed arms, they might have deleted the cam bolts.

With stock arms it may be worth looking at them, provides for slight adjustment of Caster/Pinion angle with the fixed stock arms. You may already be on that, apologies if it's a repetitive mention.

Cameron23 · Oct 22, 2025

cpwolf said:
On your front lower control arms, not sure if you're year had Cam Bolts, but if they went to fixed arms, they might have deleted the cam bolts.

With stock arms it may be worth looking at them, provides for slight adjustment of Caster/Pinion angle with the fixed stock arms. You may already be on that, apologies if it's a repetitive mention.

Mine has cam bolts still. But they look CRUSTY… so I ordered new ones, and am dreading getting the old ones out.

Cameron23 · Oct 25, 2025

Does this look right to everyone? It’s my replacement MOOG track bar from Rock Auto. I guess I imagined that both sides of the bushing should look the same?

If it’s correct and fine I’ll send it. Unfortunately had to use a grinder and cut off wheel on the old one so can’t really compare.

cpwolf · Oct 25, 2025

Cameron23 said:
Does this look right to everyone? It’s my replacement MOOG track bar from Rock Auto. I guess I imagined that both sides of the bushing should look the same?

View attachment 651223 View attachment 651224 View attachment 651225 View attachment 651226

If it’s correct and fine I’ll send it. Unfortunately had to use a grinder and cut off wheel on the old one so can’t really compare.

Look fine to me, and many of those stock style bushing have a lip and Push in from one side, so sides don’t look the same.

Also, on those bolts, and since you’re dealing with Rust, I’d get a Jug of EvapoRust and a day or 2 soaking, those bolts will look like new.

Cameron23 · Oct 26, 2025

Okay I’m installing the track bar. I used the hole I believe to be the stock mounting hole. But it falls inches short of where the ball end should be. Trying to get everything back to stock but I’m unsure of why this track bar is falling short.

Cameron23 · Oct 26, 2025

Update: I used a ratchet strap and lifted the axle. I’ve got it to here but the ratchet strap is TIGHT… like so tight that it won’t crank anymore. Should it really take that much to get the axle to line up properly or is something out of wack?

Cameron23 · Oct 26, 2025

Update: A second ratchet strap got it done.

Ashim · Oct 26, 2025

OK, see you got it. Easier way next time: Jeep should have wheels and tires on, resting on ground. Attach frame end first. Then turn steering wheel until axle hole lines up. Install bolt and tighten to spec.

Cameron23 · Oct 26, 2025

Yeah I still have passenger LCA, and both shocks to install so I was impatient as far as waiting until I got wheels back on. But next time I will definitely remember that I’m just surprised that there is so much force pulling the axle toward passenger with how tight I needed to get those straps to line everything up.

macleanflood · Oct 26, 2025

Are you at a point you can measure the axle and make sure it's centered? Mock it up to ride height.

-Mac

cpwolf · Oct 26, 2025

macleanflood said:
Are you at a point you can measure the axle and make sure it's centered? Mock it up to ride height.

-Mac

It’s not on tires, don’t you want to wait until it’s on ground and sitting to see if the axle is centered?

OldBuzzard · Oct 26, 2025

No centering needed, or possible. He's returning it to stock height, and just installed a non-adjustable track bar. If the tall springs are still in there, the axle will be off center, until he gets it back on stock springs.

Rickyd · Oct 26, 2025

I vote for some 3/4"-1" spacers with stock tires. Tj's look good that way!

Removing Lift Back to Stock

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