Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Idle Air Control Valve Part Recommendations

Cleaning the IAC by spraying 1/3 can of TB cleaner through the slot at idle RPm’s did not work for me. Already cleaned the injectors and throttle body. What next? New IAC?

To start it I have to give it gas, runs fine as long as I’m in the gas. Dies about 50% of the time when I let off the gas.
 
JMT said:
Cleaning the IAC by spraying 1/3 can of TB cleaner through the slot at idle RPm’s did not work for me. Already cleaned the injectors and throttle body. What next? New IAC?

To start it I have to give it gas, runs fine as long as I’m in the gas. Dies about 50% of the time when I let off the gas.
Click to expand...
I would definitely replace it under that condition, or at least buy and try. Worst case handle the part gently so it can be returned if it doesn't fix the issue. I know they don't "usually" fail but it is a 16-26 year old moving part so I could definitely see some of them dying over the long haul. I broke one cleaning it one time, had to get another after that.
 
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machoheadgames said:
I would definitely replace it under that condition, or at least buy and try. Worst case handle the part gently so it can be returned if it doesn't fix the issue. I know they don't "usually" fail but it is a 16-26 year old moving part so I could definitely see some of them dying over the long haul. I broke one cleaning it one time, had to get another after that.
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I had the IAC valve off while cleaning. I wondered if the pointed part was supposed to move in and out on a spring or if it is static. Mine was static. You couldn’t push it in. Some images on the internet seemed to indicate it should be pressed in more. I just don’t know.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Don't replace the IAC yet, simply cleaning it normally restores it back to 100% good operating condition. But where such parts like that and sensors are concerned, I always recommend the OEM part... aftermarket sensors are a crapshoot. But again, just clean it and it'll likely be fine.

In fact, you don't even normally have to remove the IAC to clean it. With a can of throttle body in hand, start the engine after removing the air intake tube from the throttle body. With the engine at idle rpms (don't raise the rpms up from idle), spray the cleaner into the throttle body opening where the IAC will suck the cleaner in through itself. The IAC will flood/fill up with the cleaner which will stall the engine which is fine and as it should be. Restart the engine and do it again until you've gotten at least 1/3 of the can through the IAC. That will also clean the orifice (hole) in the throttle body the IAC's plunger fits into and moves in/out inside of.

Don't waste your time & money on a new IAC until you've cleaned the IAC and learned it didn't fix the problem which is unlikely.

You can see the slot (idle air control passage inlet) in the below drawing the IAC draws its air through. That's the slot the IAC will suck the cleaner in through when the engine is running. The IAC will no longer be drawing air and pulling the cleaner in through itself if you raise the engine rpms up off idle so don't do that. Once you've used 1/3 of the can to clean the IAC, then you can raise the engine rpms and empty the can to clean the rest of the inside of the throttle body.

View attachment 56470
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Jerry, I am replacing my iac at 160,000 miles. The new one has same Mopar part # 53007562 as original but new one has a much shorter black plastic shaft. Not referring to the crowned head just the shaft. Does that elongate later or is this wrong part # yet I have seemingly 2 different style iac's with same part #. Unsure.

16642278991348513849810271312653.jpg
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Don't replace the IAC yet, simply cleaning it normally restores it back to 100% good operating condition. But where such parts like that and sensors are concerned, I always recommend the OEM part... aftermarket sensors are a crapshoot. But again, just clean it and it'll likely be fine.

In fact, you don't even normally have to remove the IAC to clean it. With a can of throttle body in hand, start the engine after removing the air intake tube from the throttle body. With the engine at idle rpms (don't raise the rpms up from idle), spray the cleaner into the throttle body opening where the IAC will suck the cleaner in through itself. The IAC will flood/fill up with the cleaner which will stall the engine which is fine and as it should be. Restart the engine and do it again until you've gotten at least 1/3 of the can through the IAC. That will also clean the orifice (hole) in the throttle body the IAC's plunger fits into and moves in/out inside of.

Don't waste your time & money on a new IAC until you've cleaned the IAC and learned it didn't fix the problem which is unlikely.

You can see the slot (idle air control passage inlet) in the below drawing the IAC draws its air through. That's the slot the IAC will suck the cleaner in through when the engine is running. The IAC will no longer be drawing air and pulling the cleaner in through itself if you raise the engine rpms up off idle so don't do that. Once you've used 1/3 of the can to clean the IAC, then you can raise the engine rpms and empty the can to clean the rest of the inside of the throttle body.

View attachment 56470
Click to expand...

Older thread, but this worked perfectly. Only difference, mine has a square opening Vs the slit shown here. Not sure why, 2005, who knows.

Either way I got shots in without killing the engine, then hit it harder to kill it and start it back up. Not sure I did a full 1/3 can, but did it for a while. Idles like a champ mid 660’s to 710 ish on the Trail Dash. Idles smooth now.

Good stuff, great tip here.
 
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Having idle issues and did the carb cleaner as @Jerry Bransford metioned previously in this thread and replaced the IAC and still having high idle.

Video link shows the idle when I’m driving, notice when I push the clutch in the rpm’s stay high and when I go to neutral at the end they stay high until I come to a full stop. Not sure what it could be. I did a vaccum leak test and had smoke coming out of the same area as pointed out in this post. So guessing that could be it.. or my last option before that would be the TPS.

Video link

1Salty Dawg said:
So right where I have the pencil pointed to when I hit it with TB cleaner the rpm's fluctuate noticeably.

View attachment 290619
Click to expand...
 
Sorry, I'm very new to the Jeep scene and cars in general. When removing the air intake tube from the throttle body, should I disconnect the negative?
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I believe this method is better. It cleans the IAC out to stop idle problems caused by insufficient airflow through a dirty obstructed IAC. Spraying it into the throttle body while the engine is running gets the cleaner through 100% of the IAC system.

The engine has to get ALL of its air through the IAC when it's at idle rpms. Any obstruction in the IAC system will affect the idle quality.
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Nice to see "Jerry Bransford" in the comments — "No Longer Participating" to ... "Sometimes participating"? Hope you're well.😉
 
If you just change your signature to "Autozone sucks" then it will be like he never left.
 

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