pretty simple...mine are squeaking like nails on a chalkboard. I could swear I've seen a longer-lasting upgrade/replacement posted on here but I can't think of any search terms specific enough to find it on here.
Replacement rod ends for SwayLOC?
- Thread starter freedom_in_4low
- Start date
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- rod ends sway bar link swayloc
RockJock4x4
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-527004-101-
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-527002-101
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-527000-102
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-527000-101
or if you want to stick with heims:
https://www.fkrodends.com/products/rod-ends/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/page-197#post-1031131
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I was looking at the RockJock sealed rod ends they have. Just not sure how big they are to make sure they will fit between the arm and the frame.
I run the passenger linkage on both my SwayLocs inboard to avoid tire contact and not lose the lock to lock steering range. Driver side is less of a problem since the arm is closer to the frame but I bet the larger body of the RJ linkage compared to heim joints will make it an issue.
I just let the tire touch the SwayLoc. It does not limit lock to lock even with factory steering stops. Better that than adding bulk to catch the frame during suspension travel.
I have not had issues of it catching the frame, but it did gouge the sidewall lugs of the tires pretty good on my TJ. Before I moved it inboard I did machine some round head bolts so there were no more sharp edges from the supplied hex head bolt also reduced the amount of steel sticking out past the arm.
I appreciate that!
Hmm, it might be. However I can foresee a situation where under enough flex it might angle the rod end housing to where the edge would catch it. But I am not opposed to cutting and re-welding the rod end tabs slightly offset. The Swayloc on my LJ that I want to do this too was practically free so not opposed to modifying it heavily.
An 1/8" is nowhere near enough.
But it can be with will power, some power tools and enough knowledge to be confident in your abilities that you actually lack!
the doofus that installed my Swayloc in 2021 put the nuts on the heim side instead of the bolt head, so I have at least that much sticking out already anyway.
I also already have the passenger one on the frame side of the arm so it won't be an issue with the tire. I've never had an issue with contact there, my tire rubs the arm a few inches forward of the rod end.
I ordered the RJ sealed ends from Core 4x4 because their shipping was $10 less than directly from RJ.
Just a note to anyone referring to this thread, to use Rockjock rod ends on a Swayloc bar.
-the RJ rod ends will result in about 2.5" longer center-center link length if replacing heims, so you'll need to reconfigure the link bodies to match lengths. The Swayloc comes with 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5" sections plus 4 studs per side to piece it together into the length you want. Mine happen to be 9.75" center to center with the 2.5 and 4.5 section, so I would use the 4.5" sections with the RJ rod ends to match them, however...
-the RJ rod ends are set up like a DA control arm with RH threads on one end and LH threads on the other. The Swayloc links are built entirely out of RH threaded parts, so two of the rod ends won't fit the bodies. To address this you can:
1. Find some 1/2-20 studs with LH threads on one end and RH threads on the other, if that exists.
2. Buy 4 RH rod ends from Rockjock, which costs $44 more than the 4 pack, or
3. Buy the end link assemblies all together with new bodies and rod ends in the appropriate length for $191, or
4. Learn this after buying the kit and go buy the link bodies separately for $24/ea and end up spending another $30 in shipping charges above option 3 because that's still cheaper than returning the kit to RJ to buy the parts I would have bought to start with.
-the RJ rod ends will result in about 2.5" longer center-center link length if replacing heims, so you'll need to reconfigure the link bodies to match lengths. The Swayloc comes with 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5" sections plus 4 studs per side to piece it together into the length you want. Mine happen to be 9.75" center to center with the 2.5 and 4.5 section, so I would use the 4.5" sections with the RJ rod ends to match them, however...
-the RJ rod ends are set up like a DA control arm with RH threads on one end and LH threads on the other. The Swayloc links are built entirely out of RH threaded parts, so two of the rod ends won't fit the bodies. To address this you can:
1. Find some 1/2-20 studs with LH threads on one end and RH threads on the other, if that exists.
2. Buy 4 RH rod ends from Rockjock, which costs $44 more than the 4 pack, or
3. Buy the end link assemblies all together with new bodies and rod ends in the appropriate length for $191, or
4. Learn this after buying the kit and go buy the link bodies separately for $24/ea and end up spending another $30 in shipping charges above option 3 because that's still cheaper than returning the kit to RJ to buy the parts I would have bought to start with.
Thank you for putting in the time and effort to figure all that out.
Option 3 sounds exactly like the answer I was looking for.
RJ ends assembled in various lengths…
One thing to note about the listed lengths like 8-1/2 and 6-1/2, etc is that is the rod length it self. The descriptions do say what the actual center to center is for the assemblies. I got the 6-1/2 but the center to center adjustment range is about 9” to 11”. I also recommend getting washers that has close to a 12mm ID to stick between the stud shoulder and the mounts since the mounts are for 1/2” bolts and the RJ rod end studs are 12mm. Not a huge difference but the washer does seem to help it sit better against the mounts.
But overall this really quited down the suspension clunks for me quite a lot!
You are 100% correct. Thankfully each setup has a description you can click on and towards the bottom of the page it gives you the upper and lower adjusting limits. I believe this is exactly the route I will go for mine.
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