Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

What did you do to your TJ today?

IrishWrangler said:
wow! I did watch a video on replacing the shocks and considered doing it myself then i chickened out. i’m going to ask “The Man” to install them instead.
Click to expand...

The "shock replacement" part really wasn't that bad. I was just trying to do more than I should have.

The hardest part was removing the old shock, but once I figured out that you can just break them off it was super easy. One of those things where the first time is much much harder than the 2nd time.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Dr. Internet and Kiwi TJ
alaskajohn said:
Over the weekend...

Finally got around to installing the shocks and 2" lift...

  • Took the boxes off the shelf where they have been sitting in the garage all winter.
  • Jacked up the front
  • Removed the front wheels
  • Detached the sway bar links.
  • Dropped the front wheels down.
  • Removed the coils and went to the autoparts store to borrow a coil spring compressor
  • Spent hours trying to figure out how to unbolt the top of the shocks with lots of youtube video advice...
    • Tried the 1/4 inch wrench and it wouldn't grab
    • Tried "cut away the rubber spacer to get hold" (no luck)
    • Remove airbox to access from above (no luck)
    • Tried "just pull the bottom and break it off" (surprise, that worked)!
  • Spend more hours trying to figure out how to push the rubber bumper and metal connector through the whole at the bottom of the shock.
    • Tried greasing it up and pushing it through (no luck)
    • Tried a vice but my vice wasn't big enough
    • Finally had the idea to use the weight of my camper and camper jack as a makeshift vice (surprise, that worked)!
  • Removed bump stops and tried putting the cools back with a rubber spacer and bigger bump stocks.
    • (1) Realized that I would never be able to do that.
    • (2) Realized that the rubber spacer was probably not a great way to Lift it anyway
    • (3) Realized the coil spring compressor I borrowed from the auto-parts store was not worth the risk given the above.
  • Reinserted the old bump stops.
  • Reinstalled the old springs.
  • Reinstalled the tires.
  • Returned the coil spring compressor.
So, I spent many many many hours only to replace the front shocks. I was humbled... but I had "fun" and it's drivable again. Likely to seek professional help if I ever want to try a lift again.

In progress photo:
View attachment 628879

New shocks installed and it all put back together photo:
View attachment 628881
Click to expand...


FYI for when the bell tolls for Round 2... you don't need spring compressors for any of the 4 springs. Put the Jeep frame on stands, jack up the axle. Remove the wheel, disconnect the shock at the bottom, disconnect the sway bar link at the bottom, then slowly lower the axle. You be able to easily remove/install the springs by hand.

The front springs have a little retainer clip on the bottom, I think it's a 13 mm bolt. Other than that, thry come off easy peezy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dr. Internet, SPECWAR and Danarch
alaskajohn said:
The "shock replacement" part really wasn't that bad. I was just trying to do more than I should have.

The hardest part was removing the old shock, but once I figured out that you can just break them off it was super easy. One of those things where the first time is much much harder than the 2nd time.
Click to expand...

I came at them from up top, dropping a socket down the access holes. I busted all of the bolts holding the airbox to the fender, but I just replaced them with brand new hardware. Every bolt I remove now, I'm replacing with brand new ones, whether it's needed or not. Even the steering gear box received shiny new bolts. I view at as time saved in the future, when I have to remove them again.

*I take that back. I reused the power steering pump reservoir bolts when I replaced that. The return line plastic port snapped while I was trying to remove the old steering line hoses. Perfect example of how it almost never goes to plan.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheBoogieman, Gerty21 and alaskajohn
CJ with a TJ said:
FYI for when the bell tolls for Round 2... you don't need spring compressors for any of the 4 springs. Put the Jeep frame on stands, jack up the axle. Remove the wheel, disconnect the shock at the bottom, disconnect the sway bar link at the bottom, then slowly lower the axle. You be able to easily remove/install the springs by hand.

The front springs have a little retainer clip on the bottom, I think it's a 13 mm bolt. Other than that, thry come off easy peezy.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I did exactly as you describe.

I got the coils renoved without the compressor, but the "econimy lift" i bought is a 1-3/4 inch rubber spacer that i could not get (1) installed over the bump stop holder and then (2) I couldn't reinstall the coul with the spacer in place by just dropping the axle alone. .. Unless I am missing something.
 
CJ with a TJ said:
I came at them from up top, dropping a socket down the access holes. I busted all of the bolts holding the airbox to the fender, but I just replaced them with brand new hardware. Every bolt I remove now, I'm replacing with brand new ones, whether it's needed or not. Even the steering gear box received shiny new bolts. I view at as time saved in the future, when I have to remove them again.

*I take that back. I reused the power steering pump reservoir bolts when I replaced that. The return line plastic port snapped while I was trying to remove the old steering line hoses. Perfect example of how it almost never goes to plan.
Click to expand...

This is genius. I haven't been replacing bolts unless I damage them, but I have been hitting the threads with a wire wheel and cleaning them up. The hardware is cheaper than my time, so that ends now. Thanks for the tip!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kiwi TJ
I bought half doors!
20250707_130010.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: RocknLJ, KimsJeep, Fulton_Hogan and 16 others
Ricgowan said:
This is genius. I haven't been replacing bolts unless I damage them, but I have been hitting the threads with a wire wheel and cleaning them up. The hardware is cheaper than my time, so that ends now. Thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...

I started to do the same, running them through a tap/die after spraying with brake cleaner and using a wire brush. Pain in the butt, and they stlll looked like garbage. I made an executive decision, decided to just factor in new QUALITY hardware into the cost. New bolts look so pretty and shiny. 🤩

It's not cheap. A full set of nuts, bolts, cam bolt eliminators, and flag nuts for 8 new control arms was an additional $100. Still cheaper than paying someone else to do it, and you know what's on there.

One issue I have is that I either buy the 3 bolts that I need for $15, or a box of 10 for $20. So I have a bunch of extra bolts. 😂 But, you can always cut longer bolts down to the needed size with an angle grinder, and taper the edge with a metal file or grinding wheel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Weasellee, Ricgowan, John Cooper and 2 others
alaskajohn said:
Yeah, I did exactly as you describe.

I got the coils renoved without the compressor, but the "econimy lift" i bought is a 1-3/4 inch rubber spacer that i could not get (1) installed over the bump stop holder and then (2) I couldn't reinstall the coul with the spacer in place by just dropping the axle alone. .. Unless I am missing something.
Click to expand...

Could you remove the bump stop receiver cup? There's a bolt inside the opening that you can access after you remove the bump stop pad. I'm up in the rust belt, mine are so rotted up in the front (see Pic #2) that I'm going to have to cut them off and weld a section of exhaust pipe in to hold the bump stop. Kind of like how it is done in the rear (see Pic #1). Getting the rubber spring isolator over the rusted out receiver cup and post was a bit hard, but with some twisting and lubricant, it went over.

Screenshot_20250707_203441_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20250707_203652_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Wow
Reactions: alaskajohn
CJ with a TJ said:
Could you remove the bump stop receiver cup? There's a bolt inside the opening that you an access after you remove the bump stop pad. I'm up in the rust belt, mine are so rotted up in the front (see Pic #2) that I'm going to have to cut them off and weld a section of exhaust pipe in to hold the bump stop. Kind of like how it is done in the rear (see Pic #1)...

View attachment 628964

View attachment 628965
Click to expand...

You can buy new bump stop cups - they're cheap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheBoogieman
CJ with a TJ said:
Could you remove the bump stop receiver cup? There's a bolt inside the opening that you can access after you remove the bump stop pad. I'm up in the rust belt, mine are so rotted up in the front (see Pic #2) that I'm going to have to cut them off and weld a section of exhaust pipe in to hold the bump stop. Kind of like how it is done in the rear (see Pic #1). Getting the rubber spring isolator over the rusted out receiver cup and post was a bit hard, but with some twisting and lubricant, it went over.
Click to expand...

Wow, that IS rusted.

So the other thing I realized with this project is that I think I just need new coils as well. When parked on level ground, the left side is about an inch lower than the right. I am at 185,000 miles on a 24 year old rig ... and so I think there is a good chance that replacing springs will make a noticeable difference.

A few years back I bought 31" tires (that barely fit) and I wanted to do a 1.5" to 2" lift to make the tires fit better... but I have started to think maybe I should just go back to stock tires and get new OEM springs that at least I know I can install myself.
 
alaskajohn said:
Over the weekend...

Finally got around to installing the shocks and 2" lift...

  • Took the boxes off the shelf where they have been sitting in the garage all winter.
  • Jacked up the front
  • Removed the front wheels
  • Detached the sway bar links.
  • Dropped the front wheels down.
  • Removed the coils and went to the autoparts store to borrow a coil spring compressor
  • Spent hours trying to figure out how to unbolt the top of the shocks with lots of youtube video advice...
    • Tried the 1/4 inch wrench and it wouldn't grab
    • Tried "cut away the rubber spacer to get hold" (no luck)
    • Remove airbox to access from above (no luck)
    • Tried "just pull the bottom and break it off" (surprise, that worked)!
  • Spend more hours trying to figure out how to push the rubber bumper and metal connector through the whole at the bottom of the shock.
    • Tried greasing it up and pushing it through (no luck)
    • Tried a vice but my vice wasn't big enough
    • Finally had the idea to use the weight of my camper and camper jack as a makeshift vice (surprise, that worked)!
  • Removed bump stops and tried putting the cools back with a rubber spacer and bigger bump stocks.
    • (1) Realized that I would never be able to do that.
    • (2) Realized that the rubber spacer was probably not a great way to Lift it anyway
    • (3) Realized the coil spring compressor I borrowed from the auto-parts store was not worth the risk given the above.
  • Reinserted the old bump stops.
  • Reinstalled the old springs.
  • Reinstalled the tires.
  • Returned the coil spring compressor.
So, I spent many many many hours only to replace the front shocks. I was humbled... but I had "fun" and it's drivable again. Likely to seek professional help if I ever want to try a lift again.

In progress photo:
View attachment 628879

New shocks installed and it all put back together photo:
View attachment 628881
Click to expand...

Sorry you had such a bad experience.
I was 72 when I installed my 1-3/4” spacers on my garage floor. Just have to stay cognizant of what you’re doing, and take your time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Weasellee, Dr. Internet, John Cooper and 2 others
SPECWAR said:
Sorry you had such a bad experience.
I was 72 when I installed my 1-3/4” spacers on my garage floor. Just have to stay cognizant of what you’re doing, and take your time.
Click to expand...

Were you happy with the ride afterward? I have started to worry that by going with the spacers I would be short changing myself.

Any tips on the install?
 
alaskajohn said:
Wow, that IS rusted.

So the other thing I realized with this project is that I think I just need new coils as well. When parked on level ground, the left side is about an inch lower than the right. I am at 185,000 miles on a 24 year old rig ... and so I think there is a good chance that replacing springs will make a noticeable difference.

A few years back I bought 31" tires (that barely fit) and I wanted to do a 1.5" to 2" lift to make the tires fit better... but I have started to think maybe I should just go back to stock tires and get new OEM springs that at least I know I can install myself.
Click to expand...

I have the same, 31" tires with no liff. I have 3 of 4 springs in, and there's a little extra height, although I didn't measure it. The old springs were tired, mine were the originals from '02.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alaskajohn
Okay, thanks. I think I am convinced to give it another try after I order replacement springs.

It is nice encouragement to hear other people's success stories.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Cooper
Over the weekend, I replaced my a/c condenser and all hoses with parts from Jeep air. Everything fit well though I had to adjust the aluminum manifold that connects to the top of the compressor on the '98 model year-the angle on the high pressure port was too acute to allow the sensor to be installed, and the angle on the inlet side was too acute to allow a flush fit to the top of the compressor. There was some talk that you can do the condenser replacement without removing the radiator-you can. I've done it both ways, and removing the radiator makes the entire job considerably faster and much, much easier. I used pinch clamps to seal off the lower radiator hose and that saved me some on the coolant replacement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cmoore, DB04RedJeep, John Cooper and 2 others
Replaced the windshield. It wasn't that difficult, although it threw me a curveball on reassembly. The driver side nut plate (that's inside the windshield frame) for the two flat-head torx screws that attach the frame to the hinges, came loose. I guess it was held in place with only glue?

Anyway, somehow it got flipped around inside the windshield frame and I wasn't able to turn it around using needle nose pliers through any of the access holes. I ended up using a carbide burr and opening up the hole in the bottom of the frame, just large enough to remove the nut plate. Since the nut plate has notches at the center, I drilled 2 - #10 holes to align with the notches and used 10-32 flathead hardware to hold the nut plate in position. I didn't tighten the 10-32 hardware so to let the nut plate "float" a bit to get the windshield frame aligned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Weasellee, John Cooper, glowell222 and 2 others

Similar threads

Plumber1
Show me what's custom on your TJ
Replies
66
Views
4,233
TJ General Discussion
Harold&Cat
Harold&Cat
0
2003 TJ Build Help
Replies
7
Views
536
TJ General Discussion
GoldenGorilla
GoldenGorilla
The4bangertj
Torque box mud flaps?
Replies
5
Views
380
TJ General Discussion
JMT
JMT
J
1999 TJ intermittent no start
Replies
7
Views
290
TJ General Discussion
OilSpot74
OilSpot74
OdinsRoar
What would you do?
Replies
2
Views
353
TJ General Discussion
OdinsRoar
OdinsRoar
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator
Top Bottom