Painting a bumper for the first time, looking for tips

GregBelleville · May 14, 2025

So I just purchased this beauty from @Fluxor and I have zero experience painting car parts, especially something as visible as a bumper.

I'd appreciate any tips on how to prep the bare metal before paint so I have the best chance of the paint sticking? I have 91% isopropyl alcohol, would that work, or I've seen others use acetone?

I had these two cans sitting on the shelf nearly full. Any reason these would be a bad choice to use for a bumper? I'm not really interested in a glossy looking black, I actually used this to paint my ball joints last year.

Irun · May 14, 2025

My go-to for more than a decade, on raw steel, is a self-etching primer, followed by Krylon Fusion. However, the preparation work is critical, including a wipe down with lint free cloths and denatured alcohol before applying anything!

OffroadTreks · May 14, 2025

Before you even paint it, you'll need to clean it, becuase it probably has something on it, even if it feels dry. Assume they welded it, packaged it, and shipped it.

The primer should work fine. There is also automotive filler if needed you can use. I probably wouldn't use the second one. They make a Satin Enamel that is good and won't be gloss black black.

If you want to notch it up a level, Eastwood makes a "Rat Rod Satin Black" that I've been painting my bumpers and rock sliders and rack on my truck for years that looks good when done. It has a low sheen. And has a hint of silver in it instead of just being black black. It literally looks like the old primered hot rods.

I was just repainting and repairing a bunch of parts a few weeks ago.

GregBelleville · May 14, 2025

OffroadTreks said:
Before you even paint it, you'll need to clean it, becuase it probably has something on it, even if it feels dry. Assume they welded it, packaged it, and shipped it.

The primer should work fine. There is also automotive filler if needed you can use. I probably wouldn't use the second one. They make a Satin Enamel that is good and won't be gloss black black.

View attachment 615822

If you want to notch it up a level, Eastwood makes a "Rat Rod Satin Black" that I've been painting my bumpers and rock sliders and rack on my truck for years that looks good when done. It has a low sheen. And has a hint of silver in it instead of just being black black. It literally looks like the old primered hot rods.

I was just repainting and repairing a bunch of parts a few weeks ago.

View attachment 615823

What do you recommend for cleaning bare metal with?

Sounds like a flat enamel is what I should be looking for.

OffroadTreks · May 14, 2025

Purple Power, Simple Green work just fine. If you want to be extra paranoid you can totally wipe it down with rubbing alcohol afterwards. Just be sure to dry it after rinsing, obviously to prevent any flash oxidation.

lBasket · May 14, 2025

Irun said:
My go-to for more than a decade, on raw steel, is a self-etching primer, followed by Krylon Fusion. However, the preparation work is critical, including a wipe down with lint free cloths and denatured alcohol before applying anything!

View attachment 615825

I always use self etching primer too, but what does that really mean?

Irun · May 14, 2025

lBasket said:
I always use self etching primer too, but what does that really mean?

"Self-etching primer creates a rough surface on metal by "burning" it slightly with an acid, which then provides a strong base for paint to adhere to. It also embeds tiny zinc particles into the metal, acting as anchors for the paint and offering some rust protection. This process ensures a better bond between the primer and the metal, preventing paint from peeling off easily."

lBasket · May 14, 2025

Irun said:
"Self-etching primer creates a rough surface on metal by "burning" it slightly with an acid, which then provides a strong base for paint to adhere to. It also embeds tiny zinc particles into the metal, acting as anchors for the paint and offering some rust protection. This process ensures a better bond between the primer and the metal, preventing paint from peeling off easily."

Nice that all sounds like good things

James9100 · May 14, 2025

These are the basic steps I've come up with after reading several threads covering this topic...
Clean w/ acetone or alcohol
Scuff w/ red or green scuff pad (red is slightly more aggressive)
Clean again w/ acetone or alcohol (critical after scuffing)
Self etching primer (2-3 coats; follow directions on can)
Topcoat of choice (2 light coats, 1 medium coat; follow directions on can)
Rustoleum enamel is a pretty popular topcoat option.

JMT · May 14, 2025

Follow what he said ^

It’s not rocket science, but as far as technique you don’t want runs, so you’ll need to practice a bit:

Do not start spraying the paint on the bumper. Start off the end and move at a continual pace from one end to the other at an equal distance from the bumper. And continue spraying past the other end of the bumper. The distance and speed will be determined by the spray and pattern, so practicing on some cardboard for a few minutes before is smart. Then you will know what to expect and how it will lay down.

Start by painting the back side of the bumper because you’re not going to want to lay the front side painted down to do the back. It’s better to always do the side you won’t see first, plus it gives you something to practice on that is not so critical.

Start on the left side and move right. Then go from right to left slightly overlapping the previous coat. Keep doing this till you have a light coat. Wait the time stated on the can, usually 3-5 minutes, and do it again. Two light coats and one medium to heavy coat is pretty normal.

Do not use an arcing motion where your can is closer and farther from the bumper. You want to always stay the same distance from the bumper. This means moving your body rather than your shoulder.

Shake the can well (1 minute). If your can specifies, turn it upside down and spray it out. Clean the nozzle.

Store the can upside down.

Make sure your temps are good. Usually over 50F.

GregBelleville · May 14, 2025

JMT said:
Follow what he said ^

It’s not rocket science, but as far as technique you don’t want runs, so you’ll need to practice a bit:

Do not start spraying the paint on the bumper. Start off the end and move at a continual pace from one end to the other at an equal distance from the bumper. And continue spraying past the other end of the bumper. The distance and speed will be determined by the spray and pattern, so practicing on some cardboard for a few minutes before is smart. Then you will know what to expect and how it will lay down.

Start by painting the back side of the bumper because you’re not going to want to lay the front side painted down to do the back. It’s better to always do the side you won’t see first, plus it gives you something to practice on that is not so critical.

Start on the left side and move right. Then go from right to left slightly overlapping the previous coat. Keep doing this till you have a light coat. Wait the time stated on the can, usually 3-5 minutes, and do it again. Two light coats and one medium to heavy coat is pretty normal.

Do not use an arcing motion where your can is closer and farther from the bumper. You want to always stay the same distance from the bumper. This means moving your body rather than your shoulder.

Shake the can well (1 minute). If your can specifies, turn it upside down and spray it out. Clean the nozzle.

Store the can upside down.

Make sure your temps are good. Usually over 50F.

This is exactly the kind of tips I was looking for. Thanks!

GregBelleville · May 14, 2025

James9100 said:
These are the basic steps I've come up with after reading several threads covering this topic...
Clean w/ acetone or alcohol
Scuff w/ red or green scuff pad (red is slightly more aggressive)
Clean again w/ acetone or alcohol (critical after scuffing)
Self etching primer (2-3 coats; follow directions on can)
Topcoat of choice (2 light coats, 1 medium coat; follow directions on can)
Rustoleum enamel is a pretty popular topcoat option.

I plan to follow this, thank you.

JMT · May 14, 2025

GregBelleville said:
I plan to follow this, thank you.

Oh, and a satin finish looks good on bumpers. Glossy is great for axles because it’s slicker and less mud and grime stick to it. Matte is too rough and every bit of dust, mud, and grime will stick to it and it will look old.

Satin is the go-to!

Vtx531 · May 15, 2025

Don't use that Rustoleum Painters touch - that's for old ladies doing craft projects. It has the lowest level of UV protection that Rustoleum makes. Same for regular Rustoleum "Stops Rust". Look for Rustoleum Professional or Rustoleum Farm and Implement is what I use.

Side note: there is a reason these companies sell bumpers and armor unpainted. It would probably cost more than the bumper if they did it right- had it bead/media blasted, primed, painted with quality paint. There is no warranty on the paint since you do it and when it starts to rust and look like crap then it's not their problem. But at least you are in Socal so that should help.

Vtx531 · May 15, 2025

Another option to consider is a roller (and brush for inside corners). Works great with a quart of Farm Implement low gloss black. You will get a much thicker coating than spray paint. I used it on my rollbar. If you want it very smooth, wait a day between coats. Or recoat after it is slightly dry if you want a little bit of an orange peel look which is what I did accidentally. No overspray with this method.

wigsajumper · May 15, 2025

Grab yourself one of those handles that slide over the nozzle of the spray can. Helps with holding the can while spraying and made it easier for me to get an even coat.

GregBelleville · May 18, 2025

Well I was able to tackle this project this weekend. I followed the advice given and prepped the bumper heavily with scuffing and acetone. I laid down total of 3 coats of this stuff.

I followed that up with 3 coats of this satin black enamel.

It definitely didn't come out perfect. I had issues with it sticking to the plastic paint tarp I used. But, overall I'm happy with it as my first effort.

Here she is.

This weekend was a pretty sweet transformation for the rear of this Jeep. I was able to sell this shittybilt tire carrier bumper yesterday morning.

And I was able to get the tire carrier mounted on the Exogate while the paint was drying on the bumper.

This new bumper really exposed my need to lift the gas tank.

Grenadiers · May 19, 2025

I purchased a Currie HP front axle for my LJ 7 years ago. I didn’t have them powder coat as I was in a hurry. So, instead, I used POR-15 and their chassis black top coat. I first cleaned the axle of any machine oil, and then used their bare metal etching spray. Still rust free to this day.

NDSpeed · May 19, 2025

i did the same thing this weekend, but the front side.

GregBelleville · May 19, 2025

NDSpeed said:
i did the same thing this weekend, but the front side.

View attachment 617020

Nice! Is that a @Fluxor bumper also? I like the bare metal of the rash guard against the black paint.

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