Huh. For real? Far as I know, from the factory this way. I'm the only one that has pulled these axles from all indications, and did it four years ago replacing all the U-joints. Everything appeared factory original. 120k miles.
Can I temporarily turn my 99 TJ into a 2WD convertible?
- Thread starter SamwiseGamJeep
- Start date
Huh. For real? Far as I know, from the factory this way. I'm the only one that has pulled these axles from all indications, and did it four years ago replacing all the U-joints. Everything appeared factory original. 120k miles.
I've already explained this ad infinitum. If there were any issues, I would not have told you it was an option, I never would have done it myself and I damn sure would not have specified a bolt size. If you think differently, then knock your shafts apart and put the stubs in. Or drive without them, I'm done.
Alright, got it. Thanks for all of the information man, sorry to test you patience, I'm 57, chock full of common sense, mechanically inclined, a little physically limited by a bad back, but grew up on a farm working on, well, everything on a farm. The Jeep world is mostly new to me in tye last five years, and although I've done much on my 30 year old Bronco, I have never been stretched as far as this Jeep has stretched me. I'm pissed at whoever owned it prior to me, and it definitely wasn't maintained, used, or repaired as I would. I am particular, meticulous, and want to prove and test and prove again, especially when something is different. Sorry to seem like I doubt your knowledge, I don't. That's why I tag you when I'm backed into a corner.
When I'm working on something that I ride my wife and our best beagle in, I have to be as sure as I can, especially with something experimental, but if you've done it for years, tested and proven, and you approve of my parts and pictures, I'm good and I'll send it.
It's border line genius.
It's weird, seems like a lot of them out there are sold as new, backwards. Even Spicer branded. Seems like some used ones on eBay are backwards also, and don't look like they would have ever had a reason to be removed and reinstalled that way.
I do agree they only make sense to go the way you show them.
Here are some brand new Dana shafts on RockAuto, installed backwards like I'm talking about.
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Doesn't matter how they are sold. The factory delivered a lot of them backwards as well. They originally were installed as shown in your pics due to being a seal carrier on locking hub stub shafts that use a V seal at the back of the spindle. Without the V seal or being used as a seal carrier, they flip around so the flange acts as a debris shield for the unitized bearing seal. If you aren't going to run the flange at the bearing side, don't even bother to run them since they are not doing anything.
I understand all that, but it seems annoying/lazy for them to install them at the factory or sell them set up for hubs, despite being intended for an application that never offered hubs.
Guess I need to check mine and flip them and/or order new ones if the flipping doesn’t go without destroying them.
Or they have the old fucks on the line assembling them and telling everyone they've been doing it that way for the last 30 years and they aren't about to change now. Or the guy that did the assembly drawing didn't catch that they needed to be flipped, or, or, or. The ONLY thing that matters is how they need to be to function for their intended purpose or not be there.
Really the way I have wrapped my mind around this entire subject, from all the information gathered..- Thanks to everyone,
Is that the front wheels actually only ride on the bearings. And the bearing units are bolted to the spindle. The axle is just a drive, not supportive. So literally all we're doing here with a really huge grade 8 bolt with triple types of lock, (Nylock nut, 1" lock washer, lock-tite), are holding the bearings together covering the races as Blaine stated.
That's it. And when torqued and locked down, I see it as safe, strong, secure.
I do not see any way that can come loose until removed. Probably stronger that most anything on the jeep.
Is that the front wheels actually only ride on the bearings. And the bearing units are bolted to the spindle. The axle is just a drive, not supportive. So literally all we're doing here with a really huge grade 8 bolt with triple types of lock, (Nylock nut, 1" lock washer, lock-tite), are holding the bearings together covering the races as Blaine stated.
That's it. And when torqued and locked down, I see it as safe, strong, secure.
I do not see any way that can come loose until removed. Probably stronger that most anything on the jeep.
Oh hell; I thought we were talking about the plastic piece. 
Now I have to look go look at mine.
Now I have to look go look at mine.
Mine are on backwards.
Ya. Interested to see if their easily flipped.
With this axle off she feels pretty.. "clampied" tight.
I think if I can get it into a vise, I probably can get it hammered off with some taps using a punch. Might be a pain to reinstall or to install a new one, though.
Simple tipy tap tap if not apply a little heat and they “always “ come off
It actually wasn’t bad at all, but I have brand new shafts I bought 2 years ago and have no (10) miles on them.
Clamped the yoke ear of the stub in the vise, tapped the slinger off easily with a 3/8” punch and a hammer going around the circumference easily, reinstalled by holding with one hand slightly off center and “popped” the other side onto the bore with the same hammer. Then used the punch going around the circumference until it was seated fully.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
Looks like mine are backward too and I know it came like that from the factory because I am the original owner.
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Overall not a bad job. Start to finish took me about an hour and a half, and I had to move a bunch of crap out of the way and go over to my neighbor’s to use his vise.
With the shafts in the OP already apart, shouldn’t take long at all unless they are stubborn, which may cause them to warp and bend instead of come off and go back on. Mine being new certainly helped.
With the shafts in the OP already apart, shouldn’t take long at all unless they are stubborn, which may cause them to warp and bend instead of come off and go back on. Mine being new certainly helped.
Did all this, buttoned up and test drive, strange grinding sound only on deceleration still clearly there. Mechanic was wrong from his guess that something in front was eating itself up. I was wrong in six months of searching forums and research.
Front unit bearings look great. Almost new, Crispy and smooth. Transmission shifts great, no problems, fresh motor build running great.
I just don't know. Maybe transfer case? Throw out bearing? It sounds like front, And under your front feet. Out of ideas and tired.
Front unit bearings look great. Almost new, Crispy and smooth. Transmission shifts great, no problems, fresh motor build running great.
I just don't know. Maybe transfer case? Throw out bearing? It sounds like front, And under your front feet. Out of ideas and tired.
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