Thank you sir. I'll do it. If I go this route. Figured if I get $20 worth of bolts and hardware, have it on hand, tear into it and feel like I need to destroy two new U-joints and separate my outer stub for use instead, I'll at least have options.
The nut on the stock shaft is 36mm if that puts anything into perspective.These things get large-ish when you step into the 1" realm.
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Unless I missed something, you won't destroy your u-joints taking them apart. A good vice or press is preferred, but various sized socket and a hammer can do it. And snap ring pliers are helpful. Don't muck up the caps either.
Don't lose any needle bearings and put the inner shafts with 1/2 of the still installed u-joints in a plastic bag.
Finding the right bolts as an alternative doesn't seem cost effective. But it's your Jeep.
Be well. Jeep on.
Unless I missed something, you won't destroy your u-joints taking them apart. A good vice or press is preferred, but various sized socket and a hammer can do it. And snap ring pliers are helpful. Don't muck up the caps either.
Don't lose any needle bearings and put the inner shafts with 1/2 of the still installed u-joints in a plastic bag.
Finding the right bolts as an alternative doesn't seem cost effective. But it's your Jeep.
Be well. Jeep on.
Presses should never be used on u-joints.Well, I may do that, these bolts and hardware were only $20, good to have on hand, and I've got a six ton press and snap ring pliers.
At least have options.
Presses should never be used on u-joints.
Caps should remain on the same journals they were removed from.
Lol, and Yikes! I'm not really special, getting a little long in the tooth, I am 220 6'4 with a big torque wrench that goes up to 250-300.
But ain't in no way approaching 800 anything!
I guess, obviously over torque of the unit bearing is not only a non issue, but it'll handle however tight I can get it.
I'll get @AndyG to come over, and we can both jump up and down on it together like a couple monkeys! He and I together at least bring it up to 300..![]()
I don’t even think our IQ will break 250 combined...I know it used to be affected by our blood alcohol content
Other than a bit of side gear slop, (the bubbles), I see nothing definite. But my first thought was bad carrier bearings. If a bearing grenaded or teeth broke off... that will cause seizure.
You might have bent a tube and the housing is just junk.
Being on a real tight budget and owning a 25 year old Jeep is hard to do. Sorry, had to say it.
Dana 30 take-offs can be had cheap, or even free.
As others said, pull the inners, take apart your u-joints and run the outers only. Drain the diff fluid first, of course. You don't need to pull the front driveshaft, Just don't put in into 4 wheel JIVE. Check the sound. You might have gotten a bad - brand new unit bearing. Chinesium probably. Noise on decel is a clue.
You can piecemeal it by detective work, finding the bad bearings or part(s), but it's not that expensive in the long run to rebuild it all.
It would be best to change all the diff bearings and races, and have it done (A complete diff rebuild) by a pro. Have the pinion crush sleeve done by someone who has a little talent and a big damn torque wrench. Change your R&P ratio to what you want it to eventually be.
If it were me I would replace the whole axle and be done.
Other than a bit of side gear slop, (the bubbles), I see nothing definite. But my first thought was bad carrier bearings. If a bearing grenaded or teeth broke off... that will cause seizure.
You might have bent a tube and the housing is just junk.
Being on a real tight budget and owning a 25 year old Jeep is hard to do. Sorry, had to say it.
Dana 30 take-offs can be had cheap, or even free.
As others said, pull the inners, take apart your u-joints and run the outers only. Drain the diff fluid first, of course. You don't need to pull the front driveshaft, Just don't put in into 4 wheel JIVE. Check the sound. You might have gotten a bad - brand new unit bearing. Chinesium probably. Noise on decel is a clue.
You can piecemeal it by detective work, finding the bad bearings or part(s), but it's not that expensive in the long run to rebuild it all.
It would be best to change all the diff bearings and races, and have it done (A complete diff rebuild) by a pro. Have the pinion crush sleeve done by someone who has a little talent and a big damn torque wrench. Change your R&P ratio to what you want it to eventually be.
If it were me I would replace the whole axle and be done.
I'm sure we could down a Case together these days and Torque something to 800+!!!
I thought that you said money was tight? And here I thought you were living in trailer park, eating top-ramen every day.
Your garage is way cleaner than mine!
Nice clean Bronco! Looks good! .... OJ![]()
I thought that you said money was tight? And here I thought you were living in trailer park, eating top-ramen every day.
Your garage is way cleaner than mine!
Nice clean Bronco! Looks good! .... OJ![]()
This is your line of separation, as long as the rear washer is past that, it can't come apart.Ok guys.
Got the passenger side off, everything looks good and test fitting this 1" Nylock nut, bolt, flat washers and lock washer. Looking at this setup, especially cleaned and with locktite, I can see where this should be very strong when tight.
My question would be, the 1" bolt does have a little play and gap inside the grooved axle hole inside the unit bearing.
I realize this is to hold the hub unit bearing together. Not the entire front end.
And the three bolts holds the hub unit to the steering knuckle.
I have no doubt it will do that, and I will torque it as much as my 1" drive jumbo wrench and torque wrench will.
I did tentatively attempt to remove the axle U-joint, but I'll have to rent a puller tomorrow to do that properly and clean.
Thoughts? Once this setup is torqued to say 250- 300, the Max I'll be able hit probably in the vice, is the gap in there a non-issue?
No worries? I'd guess it's about 1/8+ of play in there. I'd hate for it to work loose and damage the teeth in the hub unit bearings.
The setup does look slick and easy, it is almost shame the washer on the outside (smaller 1" washer), doesn't match the diameter of that outside hole there where the nut goes, because I would feel better about it locking that bolt dead center. But there are only a few washers available in this size and short of machining a large one down to drop in there, not happening.
And I do like the idea of this setup for a temp solution. Just need some assurance.
@mrblaine
@AndyG
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Thank you for calling him out on that. When it comes to suffering he’s right in there with Elizabeth Taylor.
Scott is a good example of taking care of your stuff and take care of your finances and family and life will look pretty good.
He’s not had an easy path but
he has done well by everybody he loves, Has put his parents ahead of himself and has been there for his family all the way.
I’m proud to say he’s one of my best friends.
This is your line of separation, as long as the rear washer is past that, it can't come apart.
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