Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Can I temporarily turn my 99 TJ into a 2WD convertible?

But ultimately i guess it's just a bearing and a race, and something has to keep them together.
Sorta, it is actually 2 bearings and 4 races. It is like a hub kit in that there are inner and outer bearings with 1 separate race each and one more in each cone. In a unitized bearing set up, the races are integral to the two halves that press together.

This one is close, not 100% accurate but close enough to see how they do it.
1745524091103.png
 
Haven't done.
I've done more to, and spent more on this Jeep in five years, that in 30 on my 94 Eddie Bauer Bronco. And it has stretched me and my abilities and made and taught me more than any vehicle I've owned. I've done things repairing my Bronco that I never would have done before, because of the jeep.
I am still leery of gearing. I've done everything on it and replaced all most everything on it myself except the engine build.
Every single U-joint, almost all brake components. And it does stress, but what I'm trying to say is, I'm trying not to bother my wife with it at all, we've been caregivers for elderly family for over a decade, now on our last, her Mom, and the load on her is staggering and draining, when the jeep was going it was our wind in her hair, fresh air distraction. Just trying to get to use on the road until I can cough up what it will take to finish it right and be as reliable as possible.

Depending on where in H'Ville you are, you could bring it over, and we could work on it here... I'm between H'ville and Gurley...
 
Hey guys, just want to say thank you for such a good bunch of responses and ideas and even an offer to help. I really do appreciate it.
I'm thinking and trying to decide what the best route will be.
 
Rather than pop the joints apart to separate the inner and outer shaft, find a pair of stock outer shafts and just use those to hold the unit bearings together. Alternately, you can get the stubs from a 2wd XJ and use those. Or, I've sent several rigs to be regeared with just a large bolt holding the unit bearings together. No sense in us installing new front shafts when they are just going to remove them to pull the carrier, so we improvise, new shafts in the back seat, bolts in the unit bearings.

The key point to remember is the unit bearing can separate into 2 pcs., one stays attaches to the steering knuckle, the other stays attached to the wheel and tire. They do not stay attached to each other and depend upon the stub shaft for that to happen. The stub bolts the two halves together.

Thank you Mr. Blain, for taking the time to respond on this. excellent info.
And I know you know your stuff.
 
How does the axle hold the wheel bearing together? Wouldn't the axle nut torque be critical for the bearing preload if that is the case? Are you all just saying it holds it together in case the bearing catastrophically fails?

I had always thought it is just like the unitized hub bearing on modern cars. My FWD car has the same unit bearings on all four corners and doesn't have any axle shafts at the rear because I don't have the AWD option. Would it not be the same for a Jeep front axle?
 
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How does the axle hold the wheel bearing together? Wouldn't the axle nut torque be critical for the bearing preload if that is the case?
No, they are able to create shoulders for the internals to butt up against that set the preload. Same way they do the Dana 44 axle shaft bearings. There is no preload on those that we set, we just tighten the retainer, it bows a small amount and done. The race butts against the top ring and that sets the preload.
Are you all just saying it holds it together in case the bearing catastrophically fails?
Not at all, it prevents it from coming apart.
I had always thought it is just like the unitized hub bearing on modern cars. My FWD car has the same unit bearings on all four corners and doesn't have any axle shafts at the rear because I don't have the AWD option. Would it not be the same for a Jeep front axle?
You need to be more specific. If by Jeep front axle, you mean JK and later, then yes, they are like other bearings in that when they press them together, they roll the lip of the inner over the outer to hold them together. You can drive on the JK unit bearings without the stub shaft in place.

1745588872495.png


That rolled over lip is missing on the TJ unit bearings and they just slide right apart.
1745589050506.png
 
No, they are able to create shoulders for the internals to butt up against that set the preload. Same way they do the Dana 44 axle shaft bearings. There is no preload on those that we set, we just tighten the retainer, it bows a small amount and done. The race butts against the top ring and that sets the preload.

Not at all, it prevents it from coming apart.

You need to be more specific. If by Jeep front axle, you mean JK and later, then yes, they are like other bearings in that when they press them together, they roll the lip of the inner over the outer to hold them together. You can drive on the JK unit bearings without the stub shaft in place.

View attachment 611451

That rolled over lip is missing on the TJ unit bearings and they just slide right apart.
View attachment 611452

Thanks for the explanation. Good to know!
 
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Btw, to add to this post, during the restoration, these last five years, I've done everything myself except the engine build, and the front and rear pinion seals.
The pinion seals I purchased and had one of the largest shops around Huntsville replace those. That day as I waited It was a terrible experience with that shop and the owner, unprofessional and angry people. I left feeling uneasy about the pinion seals.
I questioned everything they did, and they said they torqued properly and the things that I had researched that made me leery of doing it myself. But the fact that I waited starving all day, and it took them five hours to install two pinion seals, made me lose confidence quickly. Then, at payment time, it was a fiasco of misquoted amounts that I had to argue, stand my ground, and get a little pissed and angry at the owner to get his originally quoted price.
We have since found out how bad the shop and owner are, and the local the local jeep club has even fractured away from this shop. Bad deals and trying to personally damage a great trustworthy local mechanic and all kinds of other things fly around about this place.
So, all that being said, that very well could be what happened to this front pinion bearing and Dana 30. I'll probably never know for sure.
 
Thanks for the explanation. Good to know!
Now for the terrible part. The amount of abuse you can deliver to the unit bearing sans shaft varies so much, it is almost unpredictable. I've seen several instances where they separated at speed and in at least one, caused the death of the driver when the rig hit a tree after leaving the highway due to loss of steering.

I've cautioned many folks not to ever do it or they will die. The last one was also the cause of me no longer working on his rig. I pointed it out, he responded that it broke half way through a trail, they pulled the shaft, he finished the trail and drove it home on mountain roads for 20 miles. That was the final of way too many exceptions with his junk that made me look dumb. I don't like that much so I just said it was best if we part ways.
 
Now for the terrible part. The amount of abuse you can deliver to the unit bearing sans shaft varies so much, it is almost unpredictable. I've seen several instances where they separated at speed and in at least one, caused the death of the driver when the rig hit a tree after leaving the highway due to loss of steering.

I've cautioned many folks not to ever do it or they will die. The last one was also the cause of me no longer working on his rig. I pointed it out, he responded that it broke half way through a trail, they pulled the shaft, he finished the trail and drove it home on mountain roads for 20 miles. That was the final of way too many exceptions with his junk that made me look dumb. I don't like that much so I just said it was best if we part ways.

So you really wouldn't recommend this, even done right and meticulously, and even for just a road and back road driving jeep for a few years then. I mean, I hope to make it as reliable as possible someday, but you know what it will cost, to regear front and rear, SYE the transfer case, rear driveshaft, front locker or slip diff, ect, ect.
And I'll still be having all of that done to just a Dana 35 and 30.
I have put new Motobuilt rear axles and spider gears in the 35, but it's still a open diff 35.
And the AX-15 is still original, along with the transfer case, 99 with 125k on them.
 
Now for the terrible part. The amount of abuse you can deliver to the unit bearing sans shaft varies so much, it is almost unpredictable. I've seen several instances where they separated at speed and in at least one, caused the death of the driver when the rig hit a tree after leaving the highway due to loss of steering.

I've cautioned many folks not to ever do it or they will die. The last one was also the cause of me no longer working on his rig. I pointed it out, he responded that it broke half way through a trail, they pulled the shaft, he finished the trail and drove it home on mountain roads for 20 miles. That was the final of way too many exceptions with his junk that made me look dumb. I don't like that much so I just said it was best if we part ways.

Does this conclude that if this man wishes to go out joy riding in “2WD” with his damaged front carrier he should definitely
1 remove carrier and inner shafts
2 replace stub shafts
3 stuff rags in tubes
4 retorque and go ride safely?

This I and my son have done successfully.

🇺🇸
 
So you really wouldn't recommend this, even done right and meticulously, and even for just a road and back road driving jeep for a few years then. I mean, I hope to make it as reliable as possible someday, but you know what it will cost, to regear front and rear, SYE the transfer case, rear driveshaft, front locker or slip diff, ect, ect.
And I'll still be having all of that done to just a Dana 35 and 30.
I have put new Motobuilt rear axles and spider gears in the 35, but it's still a open diff 35.
And the AX-15 is still original, along with the transfer case, 99 with 125k on them.
My caution was to NEVER drive without the stub shafts or equivalent bolting the unit bearings together. If you bolt it together properly with any of the methods outlined above, you will be fine because you are duplicating what you have now which is the unit bearing properly held together.

FYI- before you go the bolt route, you may want to price out how much large grade 8 bolts and heavy washers cost. My preference far and above all else for someone who hasn't done this would be to acquire and use a pair of OEM stub shafts and hardware. You really lower your risk of messing it up that way.
 
My caution was to NEVER drive without the stub shafts or equivalent bolting the unit bearings together. If you bolt it together properly with any of the methods outlined above, you will be fine because you are duplicating what you have now which is the unit bearing properly held together.

FYI- before you go the bolt route, you may want to price out how much large grade 8 bolts and heavy washers cost. My preference far and above all else for someone who hasn't done this would be to acquire and use a pair of OEM stub shafts and hardware. You really lower your risk of messing it up that way.

Absolutely and yes sir, thank you.
Being as it's been a few years since I had the front apart replacing Hub unit bearings, all U-joints, steering knuckles, all brakes components and upper control arms and bushings, I have no memory of size that these bolts your talking about would be, and how many. Any rough idea of what we're talking?
 
if you can find another one and want to cover shipping, i have a stub shaft with a bent ear I can send you. The bent ear won't hurt you in the least. I'm 99% sure the stub shafts are the same on either side, but just in case mine is a passenger side.
 
Absolutely and yes sir, thank you.
Being as it's been a few years since I had the front apart replacing Hub unit bearings, all U-joints, steering knuckles, all brakes components and upper control arms and bushings, I have no memory of size that these bolts your talking about would be, and how many. Any rough idea of what we're talking?
1" x 4 1/2" with a large enough washer to equal the diameter of the flange on the stub shaft so it will actually hold the two parts together.
1745605267612.png
 
Check these out. If true, so literally for $50 I could do this, and well. Probably not too much more than the grade 8 bolts and nuts.
Ten factory is actually the same rear axles I have on it. Indian company I think.
What say you guys?

Screenshot_20250425_144008_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Check these out. If true, so literally for $50 I could do this, and well. Probably not too much more than the grade 8 bolts and nuts.
Ten factory is actually the same rear axles I have on it. Indian company I think.
What say you guys?

View attachment 611518

Not sure if there is a description error or a part error but your front shafts are 27 spline in stock form. The only 30 spline option is an Alloy USA unit bearing that has had the splines EDM enlarged to be 30 spline. They have a terrible longevity issue in that they do not last long. You want 27 spline.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator