Leaking oil near the rear differential
- Thread starter Redjeepht
- Start date
I replaced the pinion seal on my rear axle recently. Was easy just torque to 250 ft lbs. a benefit of a Currie 60.
Negative was that seal was about $50 plus shipping.
So, after a lot of research. I think I will try and replace the seal only. Marking the yoke/shaft/nut & counting the threads seems easy to me. So many opinions and preferences about this... I read a comment that said it's impossible to destroy/over-torque the crush spacer further with only hand tools... I have found some good videos and will use some of the FSM. will pick up the parts when the hurricane passes. I have a beam-style torque wrench. can I use that to measure the weight required to rotate the shaft before/after?
This is true , but I have had success marking the nut , counting the turns to remove it , replace the seal reinstall the yoke and tighten the nut with the same turn count and a TINY amount more. No issues with the 3-4 rear diffs. I reused the sleeve with. Is it right No , maybe I was just blessed when I was dirt poor....
Indeed... it takes a monstrous amount of torque to mash the sleeve, and as long as you put it back together with less torque than what was needed to mash the sleeve originally, you'll be good.
That said, I've put them back together with the old parts at 100 ft/lbs of torque (with a drop of blue locktite) and have never had a problem.
Only to get it started. Once they go,some of them go fast
I would use MoPar or National seal , 1 drop of loctite on the pinion threads. Keep everything clean , Have fun learning something new !!!!
@ColoJeep I got a Precision seal, which they said was just a rebranded National. I’ll let y’all know how it goes! The power is still out here, like the whole town. Just the few stores / gas stations using generators
What color is the " paint " on the outside diameter of the seal ? Keep things clean as you work , ( brake clean spray is your friend ) .
Keep your head in the game man , and remember Have Fun and ask questions . You got this !!!!
I’m going to get more brake clean incase I run out. Do you think that seal looks okay?… is that some rust?
. I’ve got the seal out. Still no power here so I am having trouble with using my laptop to look at the FSM. Got my blue loctite & permatex 90 minute black gasket. I also have the diff cover off. So I’ll clean off the old sealant (I’m gonna hook up the compressor to the generator and use a 2” blue pad) hopefully I’ll have room around the gas tank. I did not lift the rear.
You should be good , tap the seal in gently and evenly until seated , be sure to put gear lube on the seal rubber every where before you install the yoke , (also called the companion flange ) . you got this !
I have only had 2 pinion seals to leak years ago. And in both cases the pinion vent was plugged up. Be sure and check the breather tube. I just glossed over quickly. I hope this has not been mentioned.
Everything is back together. I just need to fill the gear fluid.
One question if anyone knows the answer. Whenever I got the nut off and took the yoke off, I don’t remember a washer right behind the nut. Is there a washer that goes under the nut? If there is, I might have dropped it into the oil pan.
I’ll also check the vent like you guys mentioned.
One question if anyone knows the answer. Whenever I got the nut off and took the yoke off, I don’t remember a washer right behind the nut. Is there a washer that goes under the nut? If there is, I might have dropped it into the oil pan.
I’ll also check the vent like you guys mentioned.
I think the Dana 44 has a washer and 35 only uses a nut, per the parts list
Everything is back together, test drive, no leaks. Thanks for all the help everyone! I’ve finally opened and serviced a differential
!(I also blew into the vent hose to make sure it wasn’t clogged)
I think that is called a beam-style torque wrench (I have one of them). I'm attaching a pic of a dial-type torque wrench it says to use in the FSM. I don't know if you can use that instead of the dial-type.
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