I think I've responded to all of the above points, sorry if I missed something.
One thing to be mindful of regarding the domestic housing and the export guts. The section baffles will not swap directly. The insides of the housings are not identical. The domestic housings only have a slot for a top baffle and it looks just about the same position. The domestic housing has a ledge near where the bottom baffle should go, but it's not a slot, just a ledge. I used some JB weld plastic epoxy putty to make an upper ledge (It's the ugliest part of this whole build for me but does the job).
View attachment 496101Side by side comparison
View attachment 496103The lower baffles aren't interchangeable
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I used JB Weld PlasticWeld to make the upper ledge for the lower baffle
The lower section of my export light does not have parking/brake function in it, it's reverse on the bottom. I believe some export tail lights are upside down (Reverse on top, Turn in middle, and park/brake on bottom. Assuming your taillights are (park/brake top, turn middle, reverse bottom), then lighting the license plate wouldn't impact park/brake illumination. Ideally the light would be directional (facing downwards) otherwise there may be some bleed through to the red reflective part of the lens, but the license plate light would only be on with the parking lights, so dimly illuminated red lens would be ok. I had purchased a motorcycle license plate LED light early in my process, and couldn't quite figure out how to mount it in the housing. I think it's what inspired me to just make my own circuit board to accomplish the same goal. I used the motorcycle LED (in the picture below) to roughly demonstrate the bleed through of light on the bottom red lens. I don't have a use for it at this point if it's something that might work for you.
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When I removed the domestic housings they were held in by what I referred to as "plastic rivets". I'm guessing the had alignment posts for the housing made of ABS which was then heated/melted and pressed down sort of like a rivet. I used a soldering iron to melt some of the plastic "rivet" and used some needle nose pliers to pick at the softened plastic, and then used a razor blade to cut it flush with the grounding plates when enough plastic had been picked out/off with the pliers. This left tiny posts that I used for alignment purposes of my custom grounding plate. They may need to be removed entirely if using export internals (the holes will more than likely not line up).
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