Recent content by mrblaine

I'm still trying to figure out why he cut off the only part that makes it easy to remove? All you have to do is take the axle end out front, set that on a floor jack. At the other end, lay a socket under the mount and trap it next to the pin. Jack up, put some tension on it, smack the mount with...

All I have to say is there's a lot of folks not looking at the same pics I am. OP, You are going to have to stack up something to push down on the top of that pin with a prybar against the frame while you smack the side of the trackbar mount rounded end with a small hammer and vibrate it out.

I have no opinion on the viability of his request, just clarifying what that request is.

He is asking if the ones that get clamped by the body mounts can be converted to be frame mounted.

I suspect the filter is there to prevent catastrophic failure in the event of catastrophic failure. Case in point is Gerald was hauling ass out of the Rubicon and tagged a big tree root at speed. That shattered a few teeth on the sector gear and the pieces went into the pump and took it out. Had...

Jerry won't have to if he ever needs to put out a car fire. Facts will be in evidence shortly thereafter.

There are no indicators that you are delivering too much torque to the axles. The chassis doesn't torque over, the engine doesn't bog a little, nothing to tell you to back out of it before you break something. We've warned folks many times in JV to stay out of low low and yet they persist. Then...

Can't be the same for both since the 35 uses a Torrington roller style and the 44 uses a cup and cone tapered roller bearing. The 35 is a c-clip retained at the spider gears and the axle slides through the bearing with the bearing journal machined onto the shaft. The 44 has an external retainer...

That says the 241 is probably too low to achieve the requisite wheel speed so now I'm lost.

Were the axles geared correctly?

Wheeling is too vague. Dunes and rocks are at opposite ends of the spectrum and what works well for one doesn't work so well for the other.

Manual or auto with the 231? I pointed out the ratios, if you want double 2.72-1 ratios for the money, then it makes sense to you. All depends on where and how you wheel.

Doesn't to me but it isn't my Jeep. You have your own sensibilities to live by. No idea if you will want or need it. The auto makes most of that a moot point. If you ask the question a different way, what would be better for ratios? Then you get an entirely different set of recommendations.

The 241 is problematic. The 231 is laterally problematic. But, in general, if you are paying new prices, winding up with 1-1, 2.72-1, 2.72-1 and 7.4-1 is a poor use of your money. You wind up with too much low gearing for the lowest ratio and doubled up ratios which is economically unsound...

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