Stripped front oil pan bolt

[machoheadgames]

The Mopar cover is discontinued and the aftermarket covers have significant fitment issues.

I got a Mopar (53020222) about a year ago, and it was legit. They're still available. I do see that 2003+ implemented a new part number (53010421), I don't know the differences. I do know the later model used different timing sets but I don't see why the cover would have changed and the diagrams all look the same. Dorman claims their model fits both of those OEM numbers above.

I'm curious if you've used an aftermarket and ran into issues? I'm wondering if the older number could be used on a later engine. Of course, it probably doesn't matter, as there likely aren't many of them left either so I'm sure as soon as people start buying them up, they'd probably all be gone in an instant too knowing how extinct TJ mopar parts go.

 

[Zorba]

If you thread in the next longer bolt length and it bottoms out, you can add a washer under the head to get some squish on the pan gasket without grinding the bolt shorter.

Roger that - and thank you Sir!

 

[tr21triton]

damn zorba , you been tearing some shit up lately ! put the wrench down and stay away from the JEEP !!!!!

 

[ColoJeep]

If you thread in the next longer bolt length and it bottoms out, you can add a washer under the head to get some squish on the pan gasket without grinding the bolt shorter.

This is good advise ! And near pain less.
The alternate method is use a longer stud and nuts , that way you just bottom out the stud , ( carefully )
then the nut can be tightened to whatever compression height necessary to seal the gasket.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

damn zorba , you been tearing some shit up lately ! put the wrench down and stay away from the JEEP !!!!!

He has run into a couple different problems lately but I don't think he caused any. This one was someone else overtightening the bolt and IIRC the other was corrosion causing seizement (< I think I made that word up) of upper rear shock bolts.

 

[randy328]

For one or two holes a heli-coil will be perfectly fine…

I prefer time-serts myself but it’s a little bit more involved and more expensive to go that route…

Agreed. For anything with fluid behind it I always went with Time-Serts.

 

[Zorba]

damn zorba , you been tearing some shit up lately ! put the wrench down and stay away from the JEEP !!!!!

Let's not forget the leaking puke bottle. If I can get this fucking thing to keep its fluids inside itself, I'll be happy...

Working on one end of this thing, and the other end spontaneously self destructs. Go figure.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Let's not forget the leaking puke bottle. If I can get this fucking thing to keep its fluids inside itself, I'll be happy...

Working on one end of this thing, and the other end spontaneously self destructs. Go figure.

Are you related to Murphy? I heard he owned a Jeep too

 

[Joe Blogs]

WTF do "Mackerel in the moonlight" smell like? I live in a very remote area by the Atlantic Ocean where everybody goes out on boats to fish for mackerel. They are going to think I'm a bit weird when they see me outside in the moonlight sniffing mackerel.

Ah! So the front bolts thread into the timing cover - which is aluminum. That explains much. I was wondering how a 1/4" bolt could strip out in cast iron - it isn't. Aluminum annoys me - its shiny, and it stinks like a Mackerel in the moonlight.

I'm thinking a Helicoil would mean I'll need to drop the pan? Which is why I was asking about drilling and tapping to 5/16" instead.

WTF do "Mackerel in the moonlight" smell like? I live in a very remote area by the Atlantic Ocean where everybody goes out on boats to fish for mackerel. They are going to think I'm a bit weird when they see me outside in the moonlight sniffing the mackerel.

 

[Irun]

I got a Mopar (53020222) about a year ago, and it was legit. They're still available. I do see that 2003+ implemented a new part number (53010421), I don't know the differences. I do know the later model used different timing sets but I don't see why the cover would have changed and the diagrams all look the same. Dorman claims their model fits both of those OEM numbers above.

I'm curious if you've used an aftermarket and ran into issues? I'm wondering if the older number could be used on a later engine. Of course, it probably doesn't matter, as there likely aren't many of them left either so I'm sure as soon as people start buying them up, they'd probably all be gone in an instant too knowing how extinct TJ mopar parts go.

Part number 53010421, for 2003 - 2006, shows discontinued. Part 53020222 shows available, but it's for an "02 back (not sure what the differences are, but the brackets and pulleys did change between '02 and '03). I did try a Dorman part, 635-409, that was supposed to be a fit, but it was a mess. If I remember, correctly, there were multiple interference points. Oddly, this part shows it fits vehicles from 1962 - 2006. I'm not sure what they were thinking here, but I ended up taking it back and fixed my stock cover.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

The earlier version probably have a nipple cast in to the backside for the cam retainer button to ride on. I'm guessing the later versions didn't have that nipple since they used a cam retaining plate or some such doohickey. I'm also guessing they discontinued the later style since the earlier style would work just the same on all years except with a little extra nipple on it. I don't know about you guys, but extra nipples usually don't hurt my feelings

 

[tr21triton]

if my oil pan ever leaks i'll just weld the bolt holes then weld the oil pan to the block ! that'll fix it same with the RMS !

 

[pagrey]

You could also check the hole depth with a toothpick and make the bolt just a bit shorter then use the washer thing Blaine suggested to tweak the end torque. I know, you know how to cut a bolt with your fancy dremel tool. I'd do that with thread locker last resort or first or whatever.

 

[Irun]

The earlier version probably have a nipple cast in to the backside for the cam retainer button to ride on. I'm guessing the later versions didn't have that nipple since they used a cam retaining plate or some such doohickey. I'm also guessing they discontinued the later style since the earlier style would work just the same on all years except with a little extra nipple on it. I don't know about you guys, but extra nipples usually don't hurt my feelings

More than two might be a problem. I think you need help!

 

[SkylinesSuck]

More than two might be a problem.

Depends on who they are attached to

 

[Zorba]

Original bolts are 1/2", replaced with 3/4". Snugged them up entirely too loosely for my comfort - I obviously need to get an inch-pound torque wrench to set them correctly. I'll see if this fixes the leak...

Edit: Inch-lb wrench on order.

 

[Zorba]

Ok, time to come clean...

@mrblaine will laugh his ass off - I had my head so far up my ass that I *finally* figured out the real problem once I opened my mouth and could see out! It wasn't an oil leak, it never was an oil leak, and once I put a catch can under it, I was able to figure out it wasn't an oil leak. The slick feeling "oil", was a bright pink once I had a quantity of it to look at! Its the fucking water pump! It even smelled like coolant. Duh! The puke bottle apparently didn't need changing either, although I swore I saw a damp pinhole on its bottom. Probably condensation.

What makes me more annoyed with myself is that I *ALWAYS* change the water pump when I buy a used car - until this one. The dealer I bought the Jeep from changed the t-stat and its housing, and I carefully inspected the whole mess and it isn't leaking from the hoses anywhere (or the T-stat housing), so that leaves the water pump. Every single time I've failed to change the water pump on a used vehicle, this is what happens. Double Duh!

So, despite @Jerry Bransford 's stellar rec, I chose not to buy a DuraLast WP, and ordered a Gates!

But hey! I learned some stuff! I don't think I've ever been so happy to have a failed WP in my life - I'll take this all day long over what it was looking like originally...

 

[williambmac]

Ok, time to come clean...

@mrblaine will laugh his ass off - I had my head so far up my ass that I *finally* figured out the real problem once I opened my mouth and could see out! It wasn't an oil leak, it never was an oil leak, and once I put a catch can under it, I was able to figure out it wasn't an oil leak. The slick feeling "oil", was a bright pink once I had a quantity of it to look at! Its the fucking water pump! It even smelled like coolant. Duh! The puke bottle apparently didn't need changing either, although I swore I saw a damp pinhole on its bottom. Probably condensation.

What makes me more annoyed with myself is that I *ALWAYS* change the water pump when I buy a used car - until this one. The dealer I bought the Jeep from changed the t-stat and its housing, and I carefully inspected the whole mess and it isn't leaking from the hoses anywhere (or the T-stat housing), so that leaves the water pump. Every single time I've failed to change the water pump on a used vehicle, this is what happens. Double Duh!

So, despite @Jerry Bransford 's stellar rec, I chose not to buy a DuraLast WP, and ordered a Gates!

But hey! I learned some stuff! I don't think I've ever been so happy to have a failed WP in my life - I'll take this all day long over what it was looking like originally...

Unfortunately, now that you disturbed the oil pan..... it's going to start to leak. Murphy's Law.
Glad that you got it figured out.

 

[Zorba]

Unfortunately, now that you disturbed the oil pan..... it's going to start to leak. Murphy's Law.
Glad that you got it figured out.

Hopefully not - gasket on it is about 1 year old, and I didn't really disturb it that much. Removed/replaced one bolt.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Unfortunately, now that you disturbed the oil pan..... it's going to start to leak. Murphy's Law.

Now you did it, you woke Mr. Murphy up.