Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

LSD vs lockers vs nothing

I was just reading about the Eaton Detroit Truetrac's. Are there ones that fit our Jeeps?

Eaton's website mentions how they work, and they sound like they might be a decent alternative to full lockers.
Yes they are. Some run Trutracs front and rear. I myself have a auto locker in front and trutrac in the rear. Best of both worlds. Haven’t needed my winch yet.
 
Would this be listed on my jeep's build sheet online? I looked it up once and thats how I found out I have a dana 44 in the first place
Good thought. I checked my build sheet and it lists "dsa anti-spin differential rear axle", so I guess it does indeed have the OEM slip diff. No idea what condition it is in of course. Jeep is an '02 but has only just over 40k miles and I doubt has ever seen anything more than a rough track and even that for only a few miles of its life.
 
Agree with trying it out, see if it's fine as is. Try to connect with other Jeepers in your area. Ask them what they're running for the same type of stuff you want to do.

If it's not fine as is, you'll have to determine if the rear LS is working. If it is, then the next logical step would be a LS or locker up front.
 
jerry what's the difference between the powertrax no-slip and the lock-right? i have a dana 30 3.07 i'm thinking of adding it to .
 
jerry what's the difference between the powertrax no-slip and the lock-right? i have a dana 30 3.07 i'm thinking of adding it to .
They are very similar in that both are automatic lunchbox lockers. The difference is is the Lockrite clicks/ratchets through turns when you're in 2wd and is not all that well behaved on the street. The No-Slip, on the other hand, is totally quiet and is well behaved. I had a No-Slip in the front of my previous TJ and I couldn't even tell it was there until I shifted into 4Hi or 4Lo. For those benefits the No-Slip is around $80 or so more to buy than the Lockrite, Aussie, etc.
 
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Thanks for all the feedback and comments...on reflection my thoughts are coloured by previous experience of early Range Rovers, many Audi Quattros and a few Volvo XC with permanent all wheel drive.

I think I’ll re-build the rear LSD with a service kit and see how it goes.

Given that the front wheels are only ever driven when there is limited surface traction, at some point, if needed a locker type would be preferable I guess to a pure LSD?

Anyone used the Auburn device that appears to be a combo LSD / electric locker?
 
Having discovered I also have the "dsa" or Trac-Lok I have tried to get a bit more info. One thing I picked up is a suggestion that anything beyond a 31" tire is more than the system can handle. Does that ring true?
 
Having discovered I also have the "dsa" or Trac-Lok I have tried to get a bit more info. One thing I picked up is a suggestion that anything beyond a 31" tire is more than the system can handle. Does that ring true?
Larger tires would place a bigger load on the Tracloc's clutch pack which would reduce its life. Up to that point of the clutch pack getting worn out, it'd function as well as a Tracloc does. The usual life for the Tracloc's clutch pack is estimated at 45-50k miles, less with big tires if its LSD function gets used a lot.
 
Thanks for all the feedback and comments...on reflection my thoughts are coloured by previous experience of early Range Rovers, many Audi Quattros and a few Volvo XC with permanent all wheel drive.

I think I’ll re-build the rear LSD with a service kit and see how it goes.

Given that the front wheels are only ever driven when there is limited surface traction, at some point, if needed a locker type would be preferable I guess to a pure LSD?

Anyone used the Auburn device that appears to be a combo LSD / electric locker?

Unless the terrain dictates you need a locker I would stick with something like the Trutrac up front. They are smooth, reliable and do not promote understeer when in four wheel drive like a full locker does.

The Auburn Ected is an interesting design but has its limitations. One thing you have to know up front is that it is not a true "locker" in that all the electric part does is engage a ball ramp that squeezes the clutch tight. The good with that is you can engage it at any time even if the tires are not necessarily spinning the same speed. The bad is that for true rockcrawling there is the possibility that the amount of traction could overcome the clutches. This makes them a good choice for those that wheel in mud, sand, or snow and are ideally suited for rear axles if you want a limited slip for on road driving in inclimate conditions. Having one in my front Dana 30 I will say I would not recommend them for either the Dana 30 or 35 as the smaller case units have some issues compared to the larger ones like the Dana 44 or Ford 8.8.
 
Unless the terrain dictates you need a locker I would stick with something like the Trutrac up front. They are smooth, reliable and do not promote understeer when in four wheel drive like a full locker does.
A locked rear locker is a much bigger cause of understeer than a locked front locker will. I was surprised to learn that several years ago when John Currie produced a video demonstrating that. A locked rear locker is highly effective at pushing you straight ahead while you're trying to turn.
 
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Unless the terrain dictates you need a locker I would stick with something like the Trutrac up front. They are smooth, reliable and do not promote understeer when in four wheel drive like a full locker does.

The Auburn Ected is an interesting design but has its limitations. One thing you have to know up front is that it is not a true "locker" in that all the electric part does is engage a ball ramp that squeezes the clutch tight. The good with that is you can engage it at any time even if the tires are not necessarily spinning the same speed. The bad is that for true rockcrawling there is the possibility that the amount of traction could overcome the clutches. This makes them a good choice for those that wheel in mud, sand, or snow and are ideally suited for rear axles if you want a limited slip for on road driving in inclimate conditions. Having one in my front Dana 30 I will say I would not recommend them for either the Dana 30 or 35 as the smaller case units have some issues compared to the larger ones like the Dana 44 or Ford 8.8.
Thanks for the insights..much appreciated...just to clarify your view...a ‘true’ LSD in the front Dana 30 axle in your opinion is ok but not an Auburn combo?
 
A locked rear locker is a much bigger cause of understeer than a locked front locker will. I was surprised to learn that several years ago when John Currie produced a video demonstrating that. A locked rear locker is highly effective at pushing you straight ahead while you're trying to turn.
I can see in the rocks where that is the case. In mud and snow at least with a rear locker you can throttle oversteer easier than you can with a front.
 
Thanks for the insights..much appreciated...just to clarify your view...a ‘true’ LSD in the front Dana 30 axle in your opinion is ok but not an Auburn combo?
My Dana 30 Auburn Ected has several issues (albeit minor) so I will not recommend it. If you need a locker up front I would recommend a selectable like Eaton Elocker or ARB. If you do not need a locker then stick with quality limited slip like a Truetrac.
 
An ECTED is not a true locker. It's technically a limited slip differential that has a way to more firmly connect its clutch pack together to make it less likely to slip. But get enough pressure on one side and it will slip... which could occur at exactly the worst possible time.

Not to mention you have to send it back to the factory to be rebuilt when its clutch pack fails and it costs nearly as much to do that as to buy a new one. The very last traction-aiding device I'd ever (not) go with is an ECTED.
 
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An ECTED is not a true locker. It's technically a limited slip differential that has a way to more firmly connect its clutch pack together to make it less likely to slip. But get enough pressure on one side and it will slip... which could occur at exactly the worst possible time.
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I think I already mentioned that. Unless you are wheeling in high traction rocks you are not going to get it to slip.

Not to mention you have to send it back to the factory to be rebuilt when its clutch pack fails and it costs nearly as much to do that as to buy a new one. The very last traction-aiding device I'd ever (not) go with is an ECTED.
This is not accurate. You can order parts from Auburn to service it yourself or send it in on the Drex program and they send you a new one.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator