Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Piss & Moan Table

We turn semis off the highway into narrow drives. Say a right had turn, signal right but have to get the semi in the left lane. Prefer this maneuver with no one behind me but one of three things happens:
Signal right: car passes immediately on the left. 40%
Signal right and see the car slowing behind. I creep over into the left lane, then the car passes on the right (just before I start my Right turn) 10%
Signal right, car backs off, let’s me turn w/o issue! Surprisingly about 50% do what they’re supposed to.
You need that classic bumper sticker: <——--Passing side | Suicide-——>

I've had this happen pulling a 5th wheel trailer, a couple of times I would have broadsided the idiot trying to short the turn to the right as I swung in except I saw him in time in my mirrors. I'd just stop, and wait for him to back up.

The other one that "gets my goat" when pulling a trailer: Somebody has been behind me for miles, and obviously wants to pass. Now if its a windy road and/or there's a bunch of traffic, I'll pull over when I can to let the people stuck behind me go. OTOH, if the road is as straight as an arrow for 100 miles, little to no opposing traffic, I won't. If they're too stupid to pass, they can stay back there!
 
We turn semis off the highway into narrow drives. Say a right had turn, signal right but have to get the semi in the left lane. Prefer this maneuver with no one behind me but one of three things happens:
Signal right: car passes immediately on the left. 40%
Signal right and see the car slowing behind. I creep over into the left lane, then the car passes on the right (just before I start my Right turn) 10%
Signal right, car backs off, let’s me turn w/o issue! Surprisingly about 50% do what they’re supposed to.

yeah, I give the big rigs the respect they deserve, I will flash them the headlights to let them change lanes in front of me.
 
We turn semis off the highway into narrow drives. Say a right had turn, signal right but have to get the semi in the left lane. Prefer this maneuver with no one behind me but one of three things happens:
Signal right: car passes immediately on the left. 40%
Signal right and see the car slowing behind. I creep over into the left lane, then the car passes on the right (just before I start my Right turn) 10%
Signal right, car backs off, let’s me turn w/o issue! Surprisingly about 50% do what they’re supposed to.
I always feel like a turd when I see a semi try to make a tight turn right after I can no longer move out of the way to help. Sometimes, the person behind me will realize what's going on and try to get out of my way so I can get out of the semi's way.

More often than not, they're staring at their phones, probably trying to find topless photos of Shania Twain or some shit.
 
Oh, by far, but I don't understand why any philips head wood screw over an inch is manufactured. Holy hell, the constant cam-out right before you can sink it properly drives me batshit.
Been there, felt that! I had to rehang some cabinets and instead of reusing the shitty 3" long philips head screws that were in it, I went and bought some torx just to avoid that problem.
 
Oh, by far, but I don't understand why any philips head wood screw over an inch is manufactured. Holy hell, the constant cam-out right before you can sink it properly drives me batshit.

When I bought this thing in 2006 the forums were aflame in complaints about the garbage phillips screws Suzuki used everywhere that stripped out if you looked at them wrong. And because many of them were steel screws into aluminum (like the carb bowl that we all removed on day 1 to rejet for our aftermarket exhausts and airbox mods), they already required a baffling amount of torque to break free on brand new bikes. Fortunately none were countersunk so they all came out ok with vice grips.

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Then some smarty-pants got on and posted about Japan having their own Japanese Industrial Specification (JIS) interpretation of what we call Phillips head, but the cam-out dimensions were slightly different in such a way that American screwdrivers stripped them out. If you used the screwdriver that came in the toolkit (that we all promptly removed from the rear fender because it looks dorky), they came out for the most part without stripping. Of course by that point I'd replaced almost all of them with stainless hex socket head screws.
 
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We turn semis off the highway into narrow drives. Say a right had turn, signal right but have to get the semi in the left lane. Prefer this maneuver with no one behind me but one of three things happens:
Signal right: car passes immediately on the left. 40%
Signal right and see the car slowing behind. I creep over into the left lane, then the car passes on the right (just before I start my Right turn) 10%
Signal right, car backs off, let’s me turn w/o issue! Surprisingly about 50% do what they’re supposed to.
I get it. I drive in SF Chinatown and the Bay Area in them.
The thing is, if I know I’m turning wide I line it up. Not to say I don’t swing wide but I actually use my mirrors
 
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Been there, felt that! I had to rehang some cabinets and instead of reusing the shitty 3" long philips head screws that were in it, I went and bought some torx just to avoid that problem.
You probably won't have to rework your cabinets for a while, but Kreg makes awesome cabinet screws. I found them while researching pocket hole jigs while trying to dress up the steel I-beam in my basement with a wood facade.
 
When I bought this thing in 2006 the forums were aflame in complaints about the garbage phillips screws Suzuki used everywhere that stripped out if you looked at them wrong. And because many of them were steel screws into aluminum (like the carb bowl that we all removed on day 1 to rejet for our aftermarket exhausts and airbox mods), they already required a baffling amount of torque to break free on brand new bikes. Fortunately none were countersunk so they all came out ok with vice grips.

View attachment 212536


Then some smarty-pants got on and posted about Japan having their own Japanese Industrial Specification (JIS) interpretation of what we call Phillips head, but the cam-out dimensions were slightly different in such a way that American screwdrivers stripped them out. If you used the screwdriver that came in the toolkit (that we all promptly removed from the rear fender because it looks dorky), they came out for the most part without stripping. Of course by that point I'd replaced almost all of them with stainless hex socket head screws.
Beat me to it re:JIS. I bought a set of JIS screw drivers for my Honda. Then pulled all the JIS head screws and replaced them with Allan head but I didn't go stainless.
 
Beat me to it re:JIS. I bought a set of JIS screw drivers for my Honda. Then pulled all the JIS head screws and replaced them with Allan head but I didn't go stainless.

it did keep them looking nice, but I know more about galvanic corrosion now than I did back then, so I wouldn't do stainless again. Stainless steel is farther from aluminum than carbon steel is in the galvanic series, so stainless into aluminum would have accelerated the corrosion due to dissimilar metals. And since both carbon steel and stainless steel are above aluminum in the series, the material loss is happening to the aluminum instead of the fastener, which I don't like. A zinc plated steel fastener would have been the best, because then the zinc becomes the anode instead of the aluminum.
 
it did keep them looking nice, but I know more about galvanic corrosion now than I did back then, so I wouldn't do stainless again. Stainless steel is farther from aluminum than carbon steel is in the galvanic series, so stainless into aluminum would have accelerated the corrosion due to dissimilar metals. And since both carbon steel and stainless steel are above aluminum in the series, the material loss is happening to the aluminum instead of the fastener, which I don't like. A zinc plated steel fastener would have been the best, because then the zinc becomes the anode instead of the aluminum.
All true - coat the fastener with copper based never-seize or grease. Both will sharply mitigate the corrosion - we ran 316 stainless bolts into bare aluminum on seagoing equipment that was in the "splash zone" for *years*. We'd use Delrin bushings when we could, but when we couldn't, we used a very tacky grease called "Aqua-Lube". I won't say we didn't have corrosion, we did, but it was minimal and things would last for a decade or more.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator