I see the Savvy and Jeep West offer 3 link front ends and a mid arm design. There are some that have them installed and DD drive them. Can this setup of three arms be used on a standard short arm? Why or why not? Just want to understand why it is ok to run a 3 link on a mid/long, and not practiced on a stock/short arm setup.
I'm really curious to see what the answer is and the what and why of this as it's an interesting question.
The pros of a 3 link + track bar is no inherent bind in the links. This makes for a slightly more responsive suspension. The con is that if the track bar fails, the front end flops over to one side.
It is not unheard of to see the passenger side arm removed with the factory control arms. The issue is that the long axle tube has less support and more load is being placed on the remaining small upper arm.
Separate from that, longer arms will reduce the amount the axle can walk under the Jeep during a climb. After that, you can set the geometry to either preserve the caster or the pinion throughout the suspension travel.
It is not unheard of to see the passenger side arm removed with the factory control arms. The issue is that the long axle tube has less support and more load is being placed on the remaining small upper arm.
Separate from that, longer arms will reduce the amount the axle can walk under the Jeep during a climb. After that, you can set the geometry to either preserve the caster or the pinion throughout the suspension travel.
like JJVW said, the advantages are no bind (and packaging... there is a nice little pocket above the driveshaft for a larger upper control arm. Disadvantages are you are asking the single upper control arm to do a lot of work. The small factory bushings won't hack it forever, so you need to typically fabricate your own arms and mounts that utilize a larger (insert favorite brand of joint here) control arm joint. I don't see any reason you couldn't remove the passenger side upper control arm, but I don't see any advantages either.
I'm going to guess the first person to make a 3 link TJ did so because the exhaust takes up a lot of real estate on the passenger side. But with short arms its not an issue
I'm going to guess the first person to make a 3 link TJ did so because the exhaust takes up a lot of real estate on the passenger side. But with short arms its not an issue
@jjvw , Thank you for the input. I read in a past post it does affect handling a bit. What changes have been most significant you have noticed as a DD? I have noticed when cycling my suspension of some bind, and it could be relieved by removing the passenger arm. Have short arms now, and in process of alleviate I would call 'wonkiness' of rear axle. Its a 8.8 with Artec kit, 4" Currie springs, Rancho 9000 shocks. Re-drilled lower frame mounts with 9th degree plate, and plan on raising the upper control arm mounts on axle about 2" to have a more separation at axle hopefully making it feel more stable. I am open to criticism if these are bad choices.
@kmas0n , Thank you also. I do have the Currie aluminum double adjustable JJ arms, Currie track bars, and all of the OEM mounts on the 30 have been removed and installed beefier mounts, along with the track bar mount is stronger. There is an end to my question is that I have an LR4 in, and want to install an A/C compressor in stock location, which is down beside the crank pulley, opposite of the ps pump. Only issue is the passenger arm will wack the pump, no bueno.
@kmas0n , Thank you also. I do have the Currie aluminum double adjustable JJ arms, Currie track bars, and all of the OEM mounts on the 30 have been removed and installed beefier mounts, along with the track bar mount is stronger. There is an end to my question is that I have an LR4 in, and want to install an A/C compressor in stock location, which is down beside the crank pulley, opposite of the ps pump. Only issue is the passenger arm will wack the pump, no bueno.
The Savvy mid arm, all by itself, will increase body roll. That can be mitigated with an outboard and good shocks. At the end of the day, the biggest change in performance anyone can do to their Jeep is to get good shocks installed. This will outweigh anything that a 3/4 link will do.
So are you going to try 3 linking your front suspension? What joint are you running on the axle side of your upper arms? Not stock type?
The reason why you do not see many short arm 3 links is that you need to sustantially increase the strength of the upper arm and its connections. So if you are going to that effort then the question becomes why would you stay with shorter arms?
Last edited:
I feel the same way, the stock mounts do not seem robust enough to just have one do all the work.
It makes me wonder about the kits out there that use the upper mount on the axle. I want to know how durable they could really be.
They both are stock rubber type, these are arms I have. The oddball in left corner go to upper dana 30 mounts.
I am referring to driver side with something like this https://rockkrawler.com/build-a-ball-joint/ I really wonder how durable this could be in a three link configuration.
Not a big one, though. The Savvy kit uses a 2.5" JJ for the front upper. Same size as the lowers.
Correct me if I am wrong, but that entails cutting off stock mount, weld in the brace, then new mount?
Similar threads
