Novice seeks help with leaking pinion seal

[97' 4 Popper]

If I understand correctly, you cannot replace the crushed sleeve without doing a complete shakedown of the carrier, This is not an option for me. I saw a video about a shortcut method (jeep solid on YouTube) which involves replacing the seal but keeping the same nut and sleeve. Can anyone recommend this as a stop gap measure? Will it hold up?

A new nut would involve setting the preload, but keeping the same nut means you would use much less torque? Is 450 pds the original setting, and what torque should I use with the same nut? Is using another nut an option?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

No need to replace the crush sleeve just to replace the seal. Mark the pinion nut's position and exactly how many turns it required to remove. Then when reinstalling it after replacing the seal, return it back to its original tightness.

Note this is not critical since the crush sleeve retains some elasticity so it's not especially micro-fussy about this.

The nut is not tightened to 450 ft-lbs. except during the original crushing of the crush sleeve. It's somewhere around 160-180 ft-lbs. but tightening the pinion nut as described will get it back where the tightness will be fine.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Okay thank you so much for clarifying that! Will be making a note of rotations, also I figured it would be smart to try and find a dial type wrench that can measure how much force loosened it. Otherwise will just set my torque wrench to 170 foot pounds when it's time to reinstall.

Luckily this TJ hasn't been on the road for quite some time so I can take this at my own pace and keep an eye out for any issues

 

[Jerry Bransford]

You won't need a torque wrench if you return the nut back to its original position by carefully counting the turns as suggested above.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

You won't need a torque wrench if you return the nut back to its original position by carefully counting the turns as suggested above.

Oh okay, right that makes sense. Thanks again for clarifying the issue for me. First time attempting this job, and it's a common problem so I need to know how to do it properly.

 

[Bigfoot-NM]

The manual actually has a procedure for replacing the pinion seal in a Dana 30.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

It's funny that you should mention the manual because this TJ still has it lol. I'm doing work on a dana 35 on a 2006 automatic 6 cylinder x model.

For the dana 30 in the manual you posted it mentions hoisting jeep and putting in neutral and removing the brakes and rotors. Is it really necessary to jack anything up beyond you own need for comfort, and also removing the brakes?

 

[hosejockey61]

FWIW, I completely disagree with the mark and re-use the pinion nut. I tried that simply out if curiosity and the difference between having it set correctly and overtightening it is so miniscule you won't see it. The mark will look right but it can be way off. On top of that, I never reuse a pinion nut as it's a one time nut. Even the FSM states that. Not worth it for a simple $5 nut for peace of mind knowing you did it right.

 

[Bigfoot-NM]

The write up in the manual is pretty clear why you do it that way. You are measuring preload before replacing the seal and then returning to the correct bearing preload after the seal is replaced. Reusing the same nut isn't wise. There is only one way to know what your preload is before you start to replace the pinion seal and what it is after you replace it.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

How bad does that threading look to you guys? Is there any hope that underneath the nut its still usable.

 

[Blackjack]

If I am not pulling the pinion then I reuse the old nut with a healthy dose of red loctite and torque the nut to no more than 100#. You can also do the old school thing and stake it.

 

[Darkwing327]

Yep, just re-use the old nut and line up the marks. Here's a tip as well. Don't ever just trust what the parts guy gives you and hammer it in. Did that on my last pinion seal and didn't realize the ID was a half inch bigger until I put the yoke back in. Check the OD to the housing and the ID to the yoke. I got to pay for both the wrong one and the right one, because I didn't check first.

 

[hosejockey61]

How bad does that threading look to you guys? Is there any hope that underneath the nut its still usable.

View attachment 208054

Are you asking if the nut is useable or will the threads still be useable? As far as the nut, no.... Get a new one they are cheap.

Are you changing a leaky seal? Crush sleeve or shims? Take a wire brush as best you can and clean the threads. Soak them in kroil or PB blaster. It may take a bit to get that off where you can clean the threads up better.

 

[TWiG01]

@97' 4 Popper did you ever tackle this job? Curious how it went

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Oops, there's something wrong with my notifications as I didn't see these responses guys. I'm attempting to remove the nut today. This is after 5 consecutive days of spraying kroil into the nut and threads every 4 hours.

Yep, just re-use the old nut and line up the marks. Here's a tip as well. Don't ever just trust what the parts guy gives you and hammer it in. Did that on my last pinion seal and didn't realize the ID was a half inch bigger until I put the yoke back in. Check the OD to the housing and the ID to the yoke. I got to pay for both the wrong one and the right one, because I didn't check first.

I don't trust the parts guys so I have two different seals one I ordered online the other from advanced auto parts. Always have issues when I go in person to order parts the computer can have the wrong information inputted and the guys won't know. Ordering it myself over the website with parts numbers always goes smoother. They always try to give you dana 44 gaskets every time you need a diff cover gasket on any 97-06. I'm not real familiar with the diameters but I will be watching out for this.

Are you asking if the nut is useable or will the threads still be useable? As far as the nut, no.... Get a new one they are cheap.

Are you changing a leaky seal? Crush sleeve or shims? Take a wire brush as best you can and clean the threads. Soak them in kroil or PB blaster. It may take a bit to get that off where you can clean the threads up better.

I'm not worried about the nut, I don't have enough knowledge to discuss reusing it or not, I was gonna get a new nut but many people said it wasn't needed and the old one looks clean. The threads look awful. Normally on wheel studs I would use metal wire brush and pb blaster before going to a light spray of rust converter and then brakleen. These threads on the pinion were too rough to be sanded down with a mere wire brush. I'm just changing the seal...the prospect of needing a new pinion and diff repairs just trying to deal with a simple leak is real.

@97' 4 Popper did you ever tackle this job? Curious how it went

I'm also very curious to see how it goes. Today I'm just trying to get the nut off if the good lord wills it.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Hey guys I may be overthinking this. I was able to remove the nut fairly easy with an impact gun set to number 4, once I enlisted the help of a coworker to secure the yoke from spinning with a pipe wrench. The threads weren't too bad once the nut went through them and cleared out some of the grime. However when reinstalled the nut it seemed to stop shy of the mark, about less than half an inch. I only used a breaker bar to get it to that point. Once I reached that point I thought the torque wrench would be enough to turn it that half inch but even at 150 pds the highest it will go it wouldn't budge. It didn't click so 150 didn't get put down.

Should I try to take it the rest of the way or just put everything back and check for vibes? My concern is ill go past the mark accidently if I try to use an impact gun on it the rest of the way. Maybe I can set it to number one and go very slowly.

 

[Blackjack]

Hey guys I may be overthinking this. I was able to remove the nut fairly easy with an impact gun set to number 4, once I enlisted the help of a coworker to secure the yoke from spinning with a pipe wrench. The threads weren't too bad once the nut went through them and cleared out some of the grime. However when reinstalled the nut it seemed to stop shy of the mark, about less than half an inch. I only used a breaker bar to get it to that point. Once I reached that point I thought the torque wrench would be enough to turn it that half inch but even at 150 pds the highest it will go it wouldn't budge. It didn't click so 150 didn't get put down.

Should I try to take it the rest of the way or just put everything back and check for vibes? My concern is ill go past the mark accidently if I try to use an impact gun on it the rest of the way. Maybe I can set it to number one and go very slowly.

View attachment 209379

Do not use the impact to install that nut. You need it tight enough that there is zero end play but no more as you will crush the collar and increase your preload.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Ran her up to 50 mph as far I can tell everything seems okay. Will be doing some more investigation and testing. I'll update if anything changes.

I don't want to prematurely declare anything but still thank you to everyone who responded to the thread!

 

[EzPeezy]

Did you use locktite?

 

[97' 4 Popper]

Did you use locktite?

Unfortunately no, I was planning on using blue loctite but in the excitement I forgot. It would have been my first time applying any type of loctite so I didn't buy red.