Advice on using POR-15 on the frame

[ballpark]

Here are the photos of the frame and the last picture is really the only part on the body that I think needs to be addressed. Just figured id throw it in there as well. I plan on removing anything that I can to get as much of the frame as possible and other components while I am under there. I will look up Corroseal now! Thanks for responding!

Yeah, its not terrible for sure. Its way better than average around here. I think all of this comes down to what your future plans are for this jeep.

If your goal is to keep it for life, then you have a lot of work ahead of you that's going to be pretty defeating. The underside of the tub, where the body mounts to the frame, does not look great and I would guess is really hard to repair. I would wait on the weekend project, and get a plan in place on how to address everything.

If your goal is to make it look better, jeep for 2 years and then sell it, I think cleaning up the frame and converting the rust would be worth it as long as your not investing too much in the process.

Think of it this way. If your going to sell in 2 years, only invest what you can get back. So, clean up and fix the soft top, don't buy Twill. Put some seat covers on, but don't buy new seats. People put a lot of money in Jeeps, but if your intent is to sell at some point, keep costs in mind.

What an awesome product. Buy it, wheel it for 2 years, and then get most of your money back!

My recommendation is for the weekend is to go through the process I outlined above. The quart of Corroseal cost $23 and is plenty to coat everything. The pump sprayer is $10 at a hardware store. It will look much much better. It will slow down rust... but realize... the life on this jeep is somewhat limited.

This would be a PITA, (its not easy for someone new) but I would get that hitch removed ASAP. Remove the hitch (and maybe the rear bumper) and then really scrape off as much of the chunks of rust as you can, and give it a good coating with the Corroseal.

And then... call it good. Enjoy the jeep realizing its old and isn't going to last forever... but be happy, because someone will buy it!! They always do.

 

[trevino33]

Yeah, its not terrible for sure. Its way better than average around here. I think all of this comes down to what your future plans are for this jeep.

If your goal is to keep it for life, then you have a lot of work ahead of you that's going to be pretty defeating. The underside of the tub, where the body mounts to the frame, does not look great and I would guess is really hard to repair. I would wait on the weekend project, and get a plan in place on how to address everything.

If your goal is to make it look better, jeep for 2 years and then sell it, I think cleaning up the frame and converting the rust would be worth it as long as your not investing too much in the process.

Think of it this way. If your going to sell in 2 years, only invest what you can get back. So, clean up and fix the soft top, don't buy Twill. Put some seat covers on, but don't buy new seats. People put a lot of money in Jeeps, but if your intent is to sell at some point, keep costs in mind.

What an awesome product. Buy it, wheel it for 2 years, and then get most of your money back!

My recommendation is for the weekend is to go through the process I outlined above. The quart of Corroseal cost $23 and is plenty to coat everything. The pump sprayer is $10 at a hardware store. It will look much much better. It will slow down rust... but realize... the life on this jeep is somewhat limited.

This would be a PITA, (its not easy for someone new) but I would get that hitch removed ASAP. Remove the hitch (and maybe the rear bumper) and then really scrape off as much of the chunks of rust as you can, and give it a good coating with the Corroseal.

And then... call it good. Enjoy the jeep realizing its old and isn't going to last forever... but be happy, because someone will buy it!! They always do.

Thanks for the advice! The engine has been very well maintained and has 90000 miles on it so I am debating on riding this tub until I graduate and then buying a more reasonable daily driver hahaha but when I do that begin working on a tub switch. (I understand that this is ambitious considering I know very little about vehicles but have good friends who know more) The frame appears to be in very good shape internally as well. so idk if it would be worth it to tub switch or just sell and buy a better condition tj like you said.

 

[trevino33]

Yeah, its not terrible for sure. Its way better than average around here. I think all of this comes down to what your future plans are for this jeep.

If your goal is to keep it for life, then you have a lot of work ahead of you that's going to be pretty defeating. The underside of the tub, where the body mounts to the frame, does not look great and I would guess is really hard to repair. I would wait on the weekend project, and get a plan in place on how to address everything.

If your goal is to make it look better, jeep for 2 years and then sell it, I think cleaning up the frame and converting the rust would be worth it as long as your not investing too much in the process.

Think of it this way. If your going to sell in 2 years, only invest what you can get back. So, clean up and fix the soft top, don't buy Twill. Put some seat covers on, but don't buy new seats. People put a lot of money in Jeeps, but if your intent is to sell at some point, keep costs in mind.

What an awesome product. Buy it, wheel it for 2 years, and then get most of your money back!

My recommendation is for the weekend is to go through the process I outlined above. The quart of Corroseal cost $23 and is plenty to coat everything. The pump sprayer is $10 at a hardware store. It will look much much better. It will slow down rust... but realize... the life on this jeep is somewhat limited.

This would be a PITA, (its not easy for someone new) but I would get that hitch removed ASAP. Remove the hitch (and maybe the rear bumper) and then really scrape off as much of the chunks of rust as you can, and give it a good coating with the Corroseal.

And then... call it good. Enjoy the jeep realizing its old and isn't going to last forever... but be happy, because someone will buy it!! They always do.

Ok after further research, will be making the frame look better and doing as you said, selling it probably after winter. I am moving to Florida in May following graduation and will look for a different TJ that has never left Florida. Rust has been a stressor! It is a beautiful jeep from 20 feet away though hahaha I definitely bought this Jeep prematurely with little to no knowledge about Jeeps but it has taught me so much.

 

[PJOJeep]

Get atleast one drain hole near the rear control arm mount, and flush the inside good and recoat the inside, I don’t believe the Eastwood product is permanent. That outside is pretty good for an Illinois jeep! I didn’t find out about the drain hole till AFTER it rotted through, and frankly, the outside didn’t look bad since I did paint it a few times. POR15 doesn’t adhere to real clean metal, so I’d recommend just wire brushing your rust spots, and Fluid Film the whole underside...or maybe use the POR15 just on the spots and use the new Black Fluid Film over everything.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

to everybody saying POR doesn't adhere to clean metal, are you just applying it to the metal or are you using the phosphoric acid etch "metal prep" before applying it?

 

[JeepingNet]

to everybody saying POR doesn't adhere to clean metal, are you just applying it to the metal or are you using the phosphoric acid etch "metal prep" before applying it?

I've used both Por 15s prep acid and another acid that was recommended on another forum. It initially sticks just fine but if you start dragging your frame over rocks the Por15 peels off in big strips only on the areas that were bare metal.

Prep is certainly the key I think spent 30-40 hours on prep and maybe 4-5 hours on painting. If I do another Jeep I'm just going to focus on sections at a time. I even went as far as removing the axles, gas tank and skids.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I've used both Por 15s prep acid and another acid that was recommended on another forum. It initially sticks just fine but if you start dragging your frame over rocks the Por15 peels off in big strips only on the areas that were bare metal.

Prep is certainly the key I think spent 30-40 hours on prep and maybe 4-5 hours on painting. If I do another Jeep I'm just going to focus on sections at a time. I even went as far as removing the axles, gas tank and skids.

Ok, well that tells a more complete picture.

My Chevy pickup has completely rusted through in the rear fender arches and I spent some time this weekend getting as much of the rust out as I could, then doing the full clean degrease, metal prep, and paint process with POR 15 to keep it from spreading after I cover it up with fender flares. Since it's going to be covered and not drug over rocks I'm not gonna worry too much about it.

 

[Joeinnewjersey]

To add to this: should one drill holes in the frame? I’ve seen some on YouTube do this.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

To add to this: should one drill holes in the frame? I’ve seen some on YouTube do this.

I drilled 3/4" holes in mine, then deburred the inside edge of the hole with a dremel before cleaning and applying a good several coats of paint to make sure the hole I drilled didn't start a new point for rust to form.

It worked pretty effectively to flush out debris and rust flakes before doing the Eastwood internal coating.

 

[ballpark]

I've used both Por 15s prep acid and another acid that was recommended on another forum. It initially sticks just fine but if you start dragging your frame over rocks the Por15 peels off in big strips only on the areas that were bare metal.

Prep is certainly the key I think spent 30-40 hours on prep and maybe 4-5 hours on painting. If I do another Jeep I'm just going to focus on sections at a time. I even went as far as removing the axles, gas tank and skids.

I think this is exactly right. If you want to do the job correctly, its very involved. This is not a quick weekend project.

I take the lazy approach, and quickly re-apply a cheaper product 2 times a year...

 

[trevino33]

So, I use a POR15 like product to help to slow down rust. In Michigan, everything rusts like crazy. Please post pictures so we know what you are dealing with in terms of rust.

My routine:

• Clean with a degreaser the entire undercarriage.
• Use a paint scraper, and scrap off anything that scrapes including previous applications of Corroseal.
• Using a 1/2 gallon pressurized garden sprayer I apply a product called Corroseal. Its like milk and it spatters everywhere.
• Take a brush and spread out the corroseal evenly.
• Repeat 2 times per year.
• I apply this to anything that is steel and anything that has rust.

Also, if I repair anything, I give it the corroseal coating as well (like removing a bumper gives me access to other areas)

I also rinse the frame after big snow falls here in Michigan. I have drain holes drilled, and I just fill the inner frame with water at the car wash flushing the internal frame with with water.

Hey so I am going to do the frame with this tomorrow. Should I paint over the corroseal? I saw that it primes metal for paint.

 

[707kevin]

I think this is exactly right. If you want to do the job correctly, its very involved. This is not a quick weekend project.

I take the lazy approach, and quickly re-apply a cheaper product 2 times a year...

If / When I start cleaning up my axles I plan on doing bare metal and 2 part epoxy primer. Eastwood makes some cans that work well. I did my custom made 4 wheeler hitch plate with it and it's held up very, very well outside for a few years.

 

[nislijala]

hey did you end up using POR15 on your frame? how was it ? you like it ?

 

[inkedrose]

I did the inside of a frame on a older vehicle few years ago. Take a hose and cap the end (I melted it together). Poke a bunch of holes in sides with a nail so it shoots out like a sprinkler. Fill the hose with POR15 and blow it out with a compressor. With the hose you can pull it through the entire frame as you spray. Beware It's messy!!!! It worked pretty well, did a good job of coating everything

 

[MikekiM]

I am in the northeast.. and I live on the bay. If you stand still for even a moment, you're going to rust. My TJ is a northeast vehicle all its' life. However, it was owned by a master Jeep mechanic and was really well maintained. Odd that it didn't have drain holes already but.. there was no visible rust anywhere other than surface rust.. 56k when I bought it and I scoured every inch of the thing.

I did Por15 the first year I had the Jeep. Haven't repeated it since. I do Fluid Film every year.

Prior to the first FF application (and about a week into my ownership) I drilled four 1/2" drain holes in front of and behind the control arm mounts.

Over the course of about two months I cleaned the frame interior using combination of magnet to collect large pieces through the holes in the side of the rails, a vacuum to suck out the smaller stuff and a high pressure washer with a length of garden hose attached to power out all the sand and small particles collecting in the rails. It took about a dozen sessions with the hose before the water draining out the drain holes was running clear. The volume of shit that came out of the rails was staggering.

Let it dry for a few days and then did a full FF application in side the frame.

Don't FF without thoroughly cleaning the rails out.

I've repeated cleaning and the FF every fall and even so, I got a small spot of rust through the frame behind the drivers rear CA mount. Really small. I cut it out to good metal and welded in a puzzle piece to fit and then FF'd it again. Diligence helps slow the process but in the rust belts you won't win the battle.

 

[DUB]

POR 15 has a rattle can version. I cleaned up my frame and used it, frame looks really good and has held up very well!