Not, no way to touch it up.The rear genright bumper is steel. No idea about anodizing AL either way. I know Savvy does that for their taillights but I don’t know if it is a good idea for bumpers.
2) You would be surprised how little $4k gets you in the south once you are talking one tons and 40's plus on a Jeep.Two things I have going in my defense though:
1) He did mention they were really dead this time of year (hence why they were able to schedule me in so quickly).
2) If I'm paying them around $4000, I would say that should buy me an extra week if I need it, right? I mean that is a sizable amount of money. Probably way more than the average job they do.
Ultimate Slider? Please see my latest post in your slider thread.I think that’s what @mrblaine said, cut the step off the Genright’s and it would be the ultimate slider
Correct me if I'm wrong though, that step on the Warn slider looks almost the same as the one on the GenRight sliders, no?
Then again, I think I'm confused about the whole "step" vs "slider" thing. I see a tube like slider on the Warn pieces, but that also serves as a "step" technically. The GenRight one is similar.
The Savvy unit is the only one that looks entirely different, because it really doesn't have much of anything sticking out very far... certainly nothing tubular like the GenRight or Warn does.
it's almost like they aren't even real...:clap:How about those trail door amps? They're aluminum!![]()
@Chris. I didn't want to search back for the post, but there IS a reason to upgrade your battery cables. Its called voltage drop. The longer a cable the more drop you get. Its not a made up internet rumor. Heavier wire will pass more current and have less voltage drop. That is a fact.
It can be debated whether its necessary or not on a wrangler, but there is definitely physics behind the reason of a larger gage wire.
My wife had a Mitsubishi Eclipse (3rd gen) that I put a pretty big stereo system in for her. Two amps, Class D sub amp and a big 4 channel for the highs and mids. When that was first installed, every time the bass hit, it would distort and pull the headlights down. I did a "big Three" upgrade (Chassis Ground, Alternator Positive wire, and Engine Ground) That fixed it. Eliminated the clipping from the amp and got the headlights back to full voltage. The wires were limiting the power supply.
Now...the debate about a Wrangler...I would say its not necessary on a Wrangler UNLESS you connect your winch to something other than the battery or have some other big load on the electrical system (like an electric air compressor or big stereo). Its also not going to hurt anything.
The interesting thing about the Warn sliders is how similar they are to the originals they copied made by Sun Performance back in the day. Not quite as good as Sun's, but a copy nonetheless.You didnt read my post in the thread....That isnt a factory Warn slider anymore, the tube step is a mod. When purchased, a Warn slider does not come with the tube step.
I added the tubing as a step yes, I plant my foot on and then get into the Jeep which works well for me. It's DOM and serves as a means to keep rocks away from the body. I would rather slide against a rock via the tube that I added than directly on my body mounted slider.
Call it counter intuative, I love the warns just the way they are from the factory with the rounded tube like edge. But for me and my wheeling, I added a tube step.
The factory Warn slider is very simple and hard to beat IMO. It utilizes a rounded tube like bottom edge which I think is perfect for a rock slider. I also appreciate the simple minimal look.
A factory Warn slider:
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You could use an Alodine pen (I believe), but it would only really be ideal for small scratches and not large gouges.Not, no way to touch it up.
A few things for you. I will always assume that the answer is appropriate in context. In this case the context is the Jeep TJ since that is what this board is about. The second thing every winch I have ever installed and that is very likely a much higher number and variety than most on here, the instructions say to connect directly to the battery.
If you want an out of context answer to show that big wire is appropriate, we used to install 270 amp alternators and auxiliary battery systems in ambulances before 270 amp alternators were common. The wire off the alternator was 4/0 feeding 3 1000 CCA flooded cell batteries before they were common. The charging system had a voltage supercharger that took a volt and shoved it back into the alternator to increase the current output when the system voltage dropped.
As a counterpoint to the "won't hurt anything", the mechanics forgot to restrain one of the 4/0 cables after a service which caused it to break the charging stud off of the very expensive alternator. They also did the same to one of the large ground cables on another unit and the system looking for a ground fried every component in the unit that was connected to ground when it back-fed.
I had this same discussion with my friend who is helping me who used to do all the electrical at the Jeep dealer and who is one of the sharper folks I know with auto electric. He started with the same crap, well, there was this one time when a guy with a manual was using his starter to pull himself up an obstacle and the starter cable got hot.
Put it context please, this isn't a manual, it isn't a YJ, and it isn't wheeling on the starter. He had a couple more examples, none in context and the only thing he could finally say was he didn't like the stamped battery terminals. Cool, I can fix that in 15 minutes. If we confine the answer to context, it isn't required and if installed correctly, it won't hurt a thing.
Just keeping it in context.Hmm? To clarify my "doesn't hurt anything" comment...I generally assume (probably incorrectly when on the internet) that the person doing the install knows what they are doing and will install properly.
I'm not sure if you're adding to the conversation, chiding me for being off topic, or telling me I'm wrong...
I just wanted to explain to Chris that the larger cables do something...just maybe not in his application. He was saying they did nothing...which isn't true. They may not do anything useful...but the physics are the physics.
I wasn't clear. It is hard to match the look of anodizing with spray paint. It is easy to match any of the common sheens of black powdercoat which also works as an wonderful primer if you don't mind scuffing it and spraying it with some rattle can.You could use an Alodine pen (I believe), but it would only really be ideal for small scratches and not large gouges.
@Chris. I didn't want to search back for the post, but there IS a reason to upgrade your battery cables. Its called voltage drop. The longer a cable the more drop you get. Its not a made up internet rumor. Heavier wire will pass more current and have less voltage drop. That is a fact.
It can be debated whether its necessary or not on a wrangler, but there is definitely physics behind the reason of a larger gage wire.
My wife had a Mitsubishi Eclipse (3rd gen) that I put a pretty big stereo system in for her. Two amps, Class D sub amp and a big 4 channel for the highs and mids. When that was first installed, every time the bass hit, it would distort and pull the headlights down. I did a "big Three" upgrade (Chassis Ground, Alternator Positive wire, and Engine Ground) That fixed it. Eliminated the clipping from the amp and got the headlights back to full voltage. The wires were limiting the power supply.
Now...the debate about a Wrangler...I would say its not necessary on a Wrangler UNLESS you connect your winch to something other than the battery or have some other big load on the electrical system (like an electric air compressor or big stereo). Its also not going to hurt anything.
I live in Tennessee and cannot agree more!2) You would be surprised how little $4k gets you in the south once you are talking one tons and 40's plus on a Jeep.
The trails around here just arent as forgiving on small tire rigs as they are out west.
They do look very similar. I like that style. Thanks for the info. I was unable to find any still for sale, which is unfortunate. Do you know if they sold?The interesting thing about the Warn sliders is how similar they are to the originals they copied made by Sun Performance back in the day. Not quite as good as Sun's, but a copy nonetheless.
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They were a local company that had a small selection of decent products for Jeeps. Like a lot of small companies, when their products got copied by the bigger folks and sales dropped, they went away. They developed the sliding tail gate prop and sold it for quite awhile until everyone knocked it off.They do look very similar. I like that style. Thanks for the info. I was unable to find any still for sale, which is unfortunate. Do you know if they sold?
They don't need them to finish. Just have them tie the cables up and then you can install them. Takes about 10 minutes per side after the tires are off and they are not required to finish anything they are doing except hooking up the parking brake cables after the backing plates are flipped.Just finished picking up the Fox shocks from Paul Coplin and dropping them off at the shop. I’d never met Paul before until now, but I’m glad I did. He’s got to be one of the nicest and most down to earth people I’ve ever met. Super friendly, and incredibly helpful. He said he’s very certain I am going to love the way the shocks ride with his tune, as it’s much better than how they come set out of the box.
He said if I don’t like the tune, bring him the shocks back and he’ll give me another tune for free.
Really glad I got turned onto this guy!
Still waiting on the Wizard brackets. So far USPS has had them for 6 days (this is Priority mail too) and they still haven’t showed up. The tracking doesn’t show any progress either.
Thanks USPS!
They don't need them to finish. Just have them tie the cables up and then you can install them. Takes about 10 minutes per side after the tires are off and they are not required to finish anything they are doing except hooking up the parking brake cables after the backing plates are flipped.
If they don't show any tracking movement, let me know and I'll ship another set out on Monday and you can refuse the first set if they ever show up.
