Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

A Story of Indecision and Frivolous Spending

I’ll have some nice 4.10 rubicon gears soon, only 31k miles on them! 😄

Haha, no kidding! I need to find out from Novak what gears I should be using for this planned setup. I haven't even the slightest clue.
 
I've seen what low mileage 5.3 engines go for, and it's nothing absurd, am I right? What would you expect to pay for a low mileage 5.3 from a wrecking yard?
!

Depends on the RPO. The 4.8/5.3 is extremely cheap from the folks around here in Alabama. Picked up a 5.3 complete, drove it before the seller pulled it, with the harness for $500.

Things are cheap down south. Same thing can be said about Dana 44's around here. Patience is key here.

If you can find a 4.8, its the same block, its a little cheaper, and can handle a lot of upgrades. I understand you are not looking to do that, but the block can handle 1,000 hp+. On that same note, it kind of goes without saying that a junkyard engine should be gone through and refreshed anyway....A junkyard 4.8/5.3 is a no brainer when looking at the crate engine prices, what a joke.
 
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Complete engines can vary. I bought just an engine from a yard for $450. I had to buy all the accessories, which was quite spendy. I'd say top end for a liftout (engine with computer, all the goodies, wiring, and pedal if it's DBW) should be no more than $2000-3000. Trans should be around $450.

I've found that 5.3 and 4.8's go for about the same price. If you don't plan on FI (I'm not sure how you would package that, or have enough cooling for it) I'd skip the 4.8.
I'd do something about your transfer case - like sell it. You won't need the 4-1 gearing with the 4l60e. Those rear end gears are also seriously deep for 35's and and an LS.
 
Complete engines can vary. I bought just an engine from a yard for $450. I had to buy all the accessories, which was quite spendy. I'd say top end for a liftout (engine with computer, all the goodies, wiring, and pedal if it's DBW) should be no more than $2000-3000. Trans should be around $450.

I've found that 5.3 and 4.8's go for about the same price. If you don't plan on FI (I'm not sure how you would package that, or have enough cooling for it) I'd skip the 4.8.
I'd do something about your transfer case - like sell it. You won't need the 4-1 gearing with the 4l60e. Those rear end gears are also seriously deep for 35's and and an LS.

No plans for forced induction at all. I would be happy with around 300hp.

What gear ratio would you suggest? I have 5.38 right now, but clearly that is way to deep for this setup.

I suppose an Atlas is the best bet for a transfer case, huh?
 
I suppose an Atlas is the best bet for a transfer case, huh?
Man this just gets more expensive every time I check up on this build. I assume you would go with the 4 speed atlas if that is the route you choose. Let me know if your selling the 241 and maybe we can work something out.

Excited to see how it comes together. Are you sure you don't want to hold off on the mid-arm until your new 1 ton axles get ordered next week? :risas3:
 
Man this just gets more expensive every time I check up on this build. I assume you would go with the 4 speed atlas if that is the route you choose. Let me know if your selling the 241 and maybe we can work something out.

Excited to see how it comes together. Are you sure you don't want to hold off on the mid-arm until your new 1 ton axles get ordered next week? :risas3:

Haha! Yeah it would have to be an Atlas 4-speed.

I don’t want to get too ahead of myself. I have pending phone conversations with Novak and another shop that specializes in V8 swaps in Wranglers. I want to find out their thoughts and opinions on how I can do this swap but keep the budget down. If it’s going to be 15k, I really don’t have the means to do that right now.

I would like to keep the stock transfer case at least until I have more money for an Atlas.

This will have to be called, “Project Pissed Off Wife”.
 
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I'll let you know in advance when I need some extra hands. The part that I'll need the most help with will be once I get the engine and transmission on the cherry picker, I'll need help guiding it into the engine bay while I'm under the vehicle so that I can bolt up the engine mounts, transmission mounts, etc. That way the engine and transmission can get situated to make the rest much easier.

I'll remove the front end though, which will no doubt make it much easier (I've done it before on other vehicles without removing the front end, and it's much more of a pain in the butt).

Believe me, I understand the situation with the wife. My wife hates my hobbies and hates when I'm not around on Saturday as well, so I'll plan this accordingly. She pretty much thinks that any of this Jeep stuff I'm doing is just flat out stupid.

I tell her she'd honestly never understand unless she was a guy.

Sounds like a plan, I'm looking forward to the front row seat.

When my wife goes Walter White, I'll tell her, I don't cheat on you, I'm not a gambleholic, alcoholic, or other.
 
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How are the laws in OR in terms of the engine swap. I can't imagine they are any worst then in CA.
 
When my wife goes Walter White, I'll tell her, I don't cheat on you, I'm not a gambaloholic, alcoholic, or other.

That's pretty much my go to line for my wife as well.

She always gets made about the Jeep hobby, and I always tell her, "How can you even complain? I don't cheat on you, I don't gamble, I'm not an alcoholic, I have zero shady friends, I don't do drugs... etc."

I'm right though! I pay the bills, we're never behind on anything, and I think that while my hobby is expensive, it's also harmless.
 
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How are the laws in OR in terms of the engine swap. I can't imagine they are any worst then in CA.

No laws on it where I'm at. We have no emissions or inspections here, so I can do whatever I want!

Dibs on rubicrawler?

@Powdermonkey beat you too it, haha!

However, since I'm an AA dealer, I can get you a slight discount on a brand new RubiCrawler. Oddly, they don't allow for much discount on them. I talked to Vic at AA about that, and he said there simply isn't much markup built into them. This is why you never see them on sale or anything. The markup is pretty much nothing.
 
No laws on it where I'm at. We have no emissions or inspections here, so I can do whatever I want!



@Powdermonkey beat you too it, haha!

However, since I'm an AA dealer, I can get you a slight discount on a brand new RubiCrawler. Oddly, they don't allow for much discount on them. I talked to Vic at AA about that, and he said there simply isn't much markup built into them. This is why you never see them on sale or anything. The markup is pretty much nothing.

Maybe one day a lot more to do on my Jeep before then hah. How many miles have you put on this Jeep since you bought it?
 
Have you considered just buying a chevy or gmc 1500 (tahoe/yukon) and just stripping the needed parts? Seems like it would really drive down the cost.
 
Have you considered just buying a chevy or gmc 1500 (tahoe/yukon) and just stripping the needed parts? Seems like it would really drive down the cost.

That may be what I end up doing. I'm sure I could find a damaged one for very cheap at CoPart, park it in my RV pad, and be good to go.

I'm finding it very, very absurd that Novak says 13k for a "package".

I just need to figure out what year and model of Chevy I need to buy. It sounds like the 5.3 and the 4L60E is the solid choice, but I'm not 100% certain what year and model Chevy I should be looking for that came with that setup.

Maybe @Clint Rivera knows
 
You could easily get a Dana 300. 4:1 kit, and twin sticked and still be considered, “budget friendly.”

But frankly you don't need any of this. As a voice of reason..really? why?

Im sure youre builder friends are loving the ability to feed your addiction when they know good and well its not needed to drive down the steet. But that’s just my .02

I think you are going to make quite the dent in the swap cost by selling your 4.0, radiator, harness, front accessories, trans, rubicrawler, and 241. Have you looked around ebay to get a good idea on asking price for your drivetrain?
 
I wouldn’t have a fiancé anymore if this was my jeep lol. Seriously need to think on the swap I think. Will be awesome, but is this really worth 8-12k more to throw at the TJ? I know you are taking it to your grave with you today, but what if you change your mind and want something a little bigger so the kiddos can ride with ya someday?
 
You could easily get a Dana 300. 4:1 kit, and twin sticked and still be considered, “budget friendly.”

But frankly you don't need any of this. As a voice of reason..really? why?

Im sure youre builder friends are loving the ability to feed your addiction when they know good and well its not needed to drive down the steet. But that’s just my .02

I think you are going to make quite the dent in the swap cost by selling your 4.0, radiator, harness, front accessories, trans, rubicrawler, and 241. Have you looked around ebay to get a good idea on asking price for your drivetrain?

That's what I'm trying to do here... be reasonable. I can add things later if I want, but initially I'd just like to do a somewhat budget conscious swap. My thought is I can stick with the 241 t-case for now, and sell that down the road if I decide to get something different.

I haven't looked around eBay yet, but now I'm thinking that I like @Alex01's idea of potentially just buying a wrecked Silverado or similar and harvesting the entire drivetrain from that. At least that way I'd know I have everything I need in the donor vehicle. I've done engine swaps on previous vehicles myself where I had to source out each part individually, and I remember that being a lot more work.

The one time it was a lot easier was in my early 20s when I had a Nissan 240SX and I swapped an SR20DET into it. I bought an entire front end clip from a JDM vehicle and did the swap in my driveway. That made the entire swap so much easier! I did the entire thing in a week and it ran great.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator