I understand that shimming is required to set the pinion offset correctly. What I haven't seen mentioned is how to tighten down the pinion when checking the offset. As you all know, a crush sleeve and precise torque settings are used when tightening the yoke nut. Do I need to go through that procedure every time when checking pinion offset? Seems like that would require a new crush sleeve every time so that doesn't seem like a good way of doing it.
Dana 35 pinion offset
- Thread starter carmangary
- Start date
Let's start with what you're trying to accomplish...
Here's some good reading...
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Gear_Setup_Bible/index.html
-Mac
Here's some good reading...
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Gear_Setup_Bible/index.html
-Mac
Thanks for pointing me to the write up. It is a little vague on my question, though. It just says to reinstall the pinion and set preload again. The FSM says that whenever setting preload with old bearings you do something like add 5 in lbs. So, during this process of setting pinion offset does that mean the pinion nut should be torqued down slight more each time to increase preload? If it had to be done 5 times, for example, that would be adding quite a bit of preload. What are folks doing in this situation? Or are you just setting it to the same in-lbs as you did the first time?
Sounds like you're replacing a pinion seal and need to remove the yoke.
I measure the depth of the exposed pinion threads with a caliper and return the nut plus red loctite to the same position... aiming for exactly the same or a touch but not much tighter... probably akin your 5 in/lbs possibly less.
-Mac
I measure the depth of the exposed pinion threads with a caliper and return the nut plus red loctite to the same position... aiming for exactly the same or a touch but not much tighter... probably akin your 5 in/lbs possibly less.
-Mac
Ah, I never really explained what I was doing. I am probably going to need to replace the bearings. I noticed that the Jeep is kind of bucking when it goes down the road and there is some vibration in the driveline. I'm going to open up the diff as soon as I get time but I already noticed I can move the yoke in and out a bit so there is a bunch of play, which probably means bearings. The seal has been leaking for some time so hopefully it isn't dry inside. And hopefully I can reuse the pinion and ring gears. I haven't rebuilt a diff before but I think I can handle it. I've tackled worse. Just need to iron out some details.
The pinion doesn't doesn't have an offset. What you're describing is pinion preload. If you are actively setting gears, then no, you don't install the crush sleeve every time. You simply tighten the pinion nut until you get some resistance when rotating. If you are only replacing bearings and NOT regearing, then you will need to install the crush sleeve when putting it back together.
If only changing bearings, be sure to keep shims exactly where they came from.
I used the wrong terminology. Instead of pinion offset, I should have said pinion depth. Setting or verifying this needs to be done before setting/verifying carrier offset since it sets how far the pinion is onto the ring gear. Hopefully, I only need to change bearings and the replacement tolerances are the same as what came from the factory, but I want to be prepared if they are not, or if I need to replace the ring/pinion.
Setting preload has to be done prior to checking how the gears mesh and setting preload involves setting the crush spacer torque while spinning. It is my understand that this will need to be done each time the teeth engagement is checked. Meaning, after crushing the spacer, you would potentially have to remove the pinion, add spacer(s) under the race, set preload again, etc, etc.
Perhaps I am over-complicating it, as I tend to do sometimes.
Don't confuse a bearing change for a full re-gear.
If all you are doing is installing bearings, DO NOT change or adjust ANY shims. The depth is already set.
And stop using the word offset.
You are mistaken that you need to install the crush sleeve every time. Re-read what I posted before.
You are indeed overcomplicating it
Don't confuse a bearing change for a full re-gear.
If all you are doing is installing bearings, DO NOT change or adjust ANY shims. The depth is already set.
And stop using the word offset.
You are mistaken that you need to install the crush sleeve every time. Re-read what I posted before.
You are indeed overcomplicating it
I'm hoping that it goes as easily as you suggest. I've had a run of bad luck lately so I can use a break!
Its really pretty straight forward doing the job. make sure the carrier bearing caps go back exactly the same as the came out, sides and top and bottom and make sure those bearings are good. Been my experience there is a fine line between not enough and to much preload when reassembling so be cautious of that. It takes some huevos to crush the sleeve and over doing it isnt that hard so take your time.
Posting this here on my progress and plan. Let me know if you have any thoughts.
I pulled the cover today and stinky brown sludge came out. The spider gears had some pitting and galling but the ring and pinion gears look fine. I pulled the axles and the passenger side axle had some damage but the driver side looked OK. I ordered a new spider gear kit, a new passenger side axle, and wheel bearings and seals for both sides.
I checked ring/pinion backlash and it was 0.010" which I think is in spec. I thought the pinion had slop in it but it actually doesn't. At this point I am not planning on replacing the pinion and carrier bearings since I don't have the pullers for it, nor a press to put them back on. They feel pretty smooth when turning the yoke. I'm going to check the gear mesh with some diaper rash creme after I go get some. I plan on pulling the carrier out so that I can clean out the brown mess better but will put it back in the same way it came out unless I find something bad.
I pulled the cover today and stinky brown sludge came out. The spider gears had some pitting and galling but the ring and pinion gears look fine. I pulled the axles and the passenger side axle had some damage but the driver side looked OK. I ordered a new spider gear kit, a new passenger side axle, and wheel bearings and seals for both sides.
I checked ring/pinion backlash and it was 0.010" which I think is in spec. I thought the pinion had slop in it but it actually doesn't. At this point I am not planning on replacing the pinion and carrier bearings since I don't have the pullers for it, nor a press to put them back on. They feel pretty smooth when turning the yoke. I'm going to check the gear mesh with some diaper rash creme after I go get some. I plan on pulling the carrier out so that I can clean out the brown mess better but will put it back in the same way it came out unless I find something bad.
10 isn't in spec when it's a new install, but that's pretty good for a gear set with a lot of miles on them. Stinky brown stuff is normal for an old axle with no service history. There is zero need to run a pattern if all you are doing is changing the spiders and cleaning it up.
I just want to run a pattern to see where it is at, but I agree with you.
I pulled out the carrier today so that I could get a better look at things and do a better job cleaning and found a bunch of metal flakes on the bottom. I went ahead and pulled out the pinion. Both the carrier and pinion bearings have some very light pitting that I can't feel with my finger but I figured since I am this far in I will go ahead and replace them. I went ahead and picked up a 3/4 torque wrench and bearing/seal installer as loaners from the auto parts store and ordered one of those clam shell bearing pullers to get the old bearings off. I plan on freezing and putting parts in the oven and hopefully the new bearings will go on without a press. Otherwise, I guess I will be buying a 12 ton press to finish the job.
The pinion fell out as soon as I got the nut off and touched it. I expected it to be more of a struggle since on YouTube everyone is whacking them out. My yoke had a deep groove where the seal went so I ordered a new one. Hopefully it is all back together this time next weekend.
The pinion fell out as soon as I got the nut off and touched it. I expected it to be more of a struggle since on YouTube everyone is whacking them out. My yoke had a deep groove where the seal went so I ordered a new one. Hopefully it is all back together this time next weekend.
Got my first batch of parts and tools today. I ordered a new Dana Spicer yoke but it seems like a toy compared to the original. I am going to return it and have ordered a Mopar one. Here is a picture comparing them.
You're right that the original yoke had deep grooves!
I wouldn't worry in the least about the new yoke.
Is there supposed to be a washer under the yoke nut? There wasn't one when I removed the nut and I want to double check it didn't fall off and roll away before I spotted it. I don't see one in the parts diagram but want to double check.
If it's just a normal nut, then yes. If it's a flange nut, then no.
Those grooves are deep enough you probably could fix it with an o-ring. =)
-Mac
-Mac
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