I've been told by a reliable source that it's very expensive to Coyote swap, at least compared to a LS or HEMI. I've been told to LS swap something like a C10 runs around $5K, but a Coyote runs around $20K, and that is with junkyard pull-outs.
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I've been told by a reliable source that it's very expensive to Coyote swap, at least compared to a LS or HEMI. I've been told to LS swap something like a C10 runs around $5K, but a Coyote runs around $20K, and that is with junkyard pull-outs.
Yeah they're expensive! He got the drivetrain, ECU, BCM, and cluster at the flat rate upull rates which I don't think is normal.
And then he did everything himself, way above my pay grade, which saved a lot. This guy is kinda a wizard of finding stuff from one model that works on another kinda thing
I'm a sucker for older crew cab trucks, and that one fits the bill. I agree it'd be cooler with a 460.
Ford did not make or have the option of a 460 in a 4x4.
Swaps/conversions. It's a thing. Just saying.
So that would mean the coyote engine would weigh under 200 lbs .....
Sounds like a good power-to-weight ratio swap.
So, as I was walking across the Safeway parking lot, I spotted a fairly clean TJ with the driver sitting in it. I walked up and struck up a conversation about his little rig. Turns out he's from Arkansas, and he drove the TJ all the way out here to Washington. I told him about my "stalled project" TJ, and mentioned that it spent five years in Michigan, and was a lot rustier than I realized. His response was "Yeah, rust is a problem, isn't it? Like, take that rusty old truck over there. That's pretty rough." I turned to look at the vehicle he was pointing at, and without missing a beat said "Yeah. That's my truck, actually." I wish you guys could've seen the look on his face. It was priceless! He truly didn't know what to say! 
T'sall good, though. We had a good laugh. Nice fella. Nice TJ.
T'sall good, though. We had a good laugh. Nice fella. Nice TJ.That would have been a perfect time for him to hand you a can of RustOleum and some words of encouragement.
So, as I was walking across the Safeway parking lot, I spotted a fairly clean TJ with the driver sitting in it. I walked up and struck up a conversation about his little rig. Turns out he's from Arkansas, and he drove the TJ all the way out here to Washington. I told him about my "stalled project" TJ, and mentioned that it spent five years in Michigan, and was a lot rustier than I realized. His response was "Yeah, rust is a problem, isn't it? Like, take that rusty old truck over there. That's pretty rough." I turned to look at the vehicle he was pointing at, and without missing a beat said "Yeah. That's my truck, actually." I wish you guys could've seen the look on his face. It was priceless! He truly didn't know what to say!
Great story ! , the only thing you could have added would be . But ...But ... Buuutt it has a 12 valve Cummins !!!
Okay gents, I am looking for some advice. Some of you may remember that I replaced the screen in a spool valve assembly of a Honda Element some time back. Well, two months later, it threw a code again, and went into limp mode. Figuring that it was likely a faulty spool valve, I obtained a new OEM replacement, and went out to install it today. When I pulled the old one, the new screen I had installed in mid-September was almost completely plugged again with sludge/grit. Wasn't expecting that! So, I just cleaned the screen and reinstalled the old spool valve. My thinking is that this 260K (if'n I recall correctly) needs an engine flush...or two. As I've never had the need to do one before, I have no experience with the process. My old school way of thinking is to drain a quart of oil out, add a quart of diesel, idle it for 15 minutes, and then do a full oil change. However, I see that there are all sorts of engine-flush products on the market, so I thought I'd seek some input from anyone who may have used them, or even the diesel flush, in the hopes of educating myself before attempting this on a "customer's" car. Eventually, the plan is to install the new spool valve, once I'm satisfied with the cleanliness of the engine. I may be pulling the old spool valve to clean the screen a few more times before that happens, however. What say you all? Any words of wisdom?
What say you all? Any words of wisdom?
Okay gents, I am looking for some advice. Some of you may remember that I replaced the screen in a spool valve assembly of a Honda Element some time back. Well, two months later, it threw a code again, and went into limp mode. Figuring that it was likely a faulty spool valve, I obtained a new OEM replacement, and went out to install it today. When I pulled the old one, the new screen I had installed in mid-September was almost completely plugged again with sludge/grit. Wasn't expecting that! So, I just cleaned the screen and reinstalled the old spool valve. My thinking is that this 260K (if'n I recall correctly) needs an engine flush...or two. As I've never had the need to do one before, I have no experience with the process. My old school way of thinking is to drain a quart of oil out, add a quart of diesel, idle it for 15 minutes, and then do a full oil change. However, I see that there are all sorts of engine-flush products on the market, so I thought I'd seek some input from anyone who may have used them, or even the diesel flush, in the hopes of educating myself before attempting this on a "customer's" car. Eventually, the plan is to install the new spool valve, once I'm satisfied with the cleanliness of the engine. I may be pulling the old spool valve to clean the screen a few more times before that happens, however.
I have and would again (if I ever need to) use a bottle of ATF, but definitely not diesel fuel if you plan on running the engine while it's in there. Seafoam is a good alternative and they actually list engine oil flush as one of it's uses. The biggest hang up I have with using diesel is it's 100% a solvent with almost no lubrication properties (especially the stuff we buy today aka extreme low sulfur). ATF and seafoam both have a LOT of detergents so they help clean sludgy sticky crap out but still have enough lubricity to not damage bearings. You can also spray seafoam into the intake while the engine is running to help clean the top end...
I've heard of using ATF before, but had forgotten about it (getting old, don'tcha know). I realize that diesel is a solvent, but figured that was the main benefit to cleaning out the engine. I was thinking that if 80% of what was in the crankcase was oil, the 20% being solvent would not cause damage to an engine that was merely idling. However, that was purely assumption on my part, so I will definitely consider your position on the matter. Thanks, buddy!
Okay gents, I am looking for some advice. Some of you may remember that I replaced the screen in a spool valve assembly of a Honda Element some time back. Well, two months later, it threw a code again, and went into limp mode. Figuring that it was likely a faulty spool valve, I obtained a new OEM replacement, and went out to install it today. When I pulled the old one, the new screen I had installed in mid-September was almost completely plugged again with sludge/grit. Wasn't expecting that! So, I just cleaned the screen and reinstalled the old spool valve. My thinking is that this 260K (if'n I recall correctly) needs an engine flush...or two. As I've never had the need to do one before, I have no experience with the process. My old school way of thinking is to drain a quart of oil out, add a quart of diesel, idle it for 15 minutes, and then do a full oil change. However, I see that there are all sorts of engine-flush products on the market, so I thought I'd seek some input from anyone who may have used them, or even the diesel flush, in the hopes of educating myself before attempting this on a "customer's" car. Eventually, the plan is to install the new spool valve, once I'm satisfied with the cleanliness of the engine. I may be pulling the old spool valve to clean the screen a few more times before that happens, however.
Using diesel and running the engine for 1 minute is fine on a 8N Ford tractor for a quick flush . However I agree the Reddvltj on using a Qt. ATF and running it.
I know half a dozen guys who have done that to flush and unstick lifters on Ford FE 360 , 390's with the famous Ford tick. Maybe after the "flush" , change the oil and filter every 50 miles for a couple of cycles . Seafoam is an interesting idea , but it is mostly naphtha which is more of a solvent to me.
Keep us in the loop on how you move forward Squatch. May the wind be at your back my friend.
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Cool. That's two recommendations on ATF from a couple of mechanically inclined individuals. I'm liking the odds that the ATF is the way to go. Anyone else got anything to add?
I've read online that diesel people add it to their diesel fuel for the same effect... So that might mean something vs using diesel
Adding ATF to the diesel is kind of a last resort to clean and rejuvenate seals inside the injectors. I highly recommend against doing that in a modern diesel if it has not undergone weight reduction therapy.. IYKYK
Power service, Lucas, et al, are better suited to that task though.
I'm a sucker for older crew cab trucks, and that one fits the bill. I agree it'd be cooler with a 460.
IDK but I had an ‘85 f350 crew cab 8’ bed with a 460 and a 4-speed. I thought it was pretty cool when I bought it (and it was despite being a 20yo logging crummy). However, although it was peppy empty and sounded cool, it was nothing but drama when hauling. Like “is the engine gonna blow up or are we just going to run out of gas?” It got a solid 9 mpg empty, but that lofty number sank to 5 when hauling in the mountains. Long story, short. It threw a rod and I got the CTD powered truck I’m still driving almost 20 years later. And the moral I take from that story is gas is for cars, not trucks.
I never understood why anyone would want a stinky-ass, rattling, clattering old diesel truck...until I bought one.
Now, a 460 in a half-ton short box 2wd "bumpside" Blue Oval...THAT I'd take!!!Similar threads
