Lowering Jeep & CurrectLync Install

[SandyJeepney]

Need some thoughts here..

Jeep is currently on a 4in lift, and I recently put 32in tires on it (it was sitting on 35s). Steering isn’t great, but it’s got some noticeable bump steer. I do drive it occasionally during the week and it’s does the occasional weekend trail.

I want to lower it and run a 2in lift. I’m planning on Rancho Shocks + OME coils.

It’s currently got a redhead gear box, but I want to change out the tie rod/drag link to a currectlync.

I believe it’s got the rough country steering kit so the knuckles were drilled out. Would those need to be changed out to fit currectlync?

Anything additional you’d recommend changing at the same time?

 

[macleanflood]

Personally I'd go with Currie springs. Can't tell if that's a drop pitman arm from the picture but it might need swapped.

I'd recommend an Oro SwayLoc too...and Black Max shocks.

I believe they make a tapered sleeve to address drilled out knuckles... that's what they use when they do a tie rod flip. But I'll let someone with more experience speak to that.

-Mac

 

[SandyJeepney]

Personally I'd go with Currie springs. Can't tell if that's a drop pitman arm from the picture but it might need swapped.

I'd recommend an Oro SwayLoc too...and Black Max shocks.

I believe they make a tapered sleeve to address drilled out knuckles... that's what they use when they do a tie rod flip. But I'll let someone with more experience speak to that.

-Mac

Thank you, I’ll look into those as well.

Looks like it’s not a drop pitman arm..

 

[BlueC]

I want to lower it and run a 2in lift. I’m planning on Rancho Shocks + OME coils.

It’s currently got a redhead gear box, but I want to change out the tie rod/drag link to a currectlync.

I doubt the RockJock steering will like a 2" spring since it's designed around 4-6" of lift. I'm on 3" springs and it's just short enough to fit. 2" will probably have things bottomed out and pushing the axle/steering sideways.

 

[tworley]

It'll work--you may have an issue where the drag link cannot collapse enough due to the end of the drag link making contact with the end of the joint to the pitman arm within the adjustment sleeve. Solution would be to trim the threaded portions on one of the pieces. The other issue is, depending on your type of wheeling, is the risk of over-traveling the body of the joint and wear it out faster. The currie joints are designed to be in a neutral position (like stock) but on taller lifts.​

 

[SandyJeepney]

It'll work--you may have an issue where the drag link cannot collapse enough due to the end of the drag link making contact with the end of the joint to the pitman arm within the adjustment sleeve. Solution would be to trim the threaded portions on one of the pieces. The other issue is, depending on your type of wheeling, is the risk of over-traveling the body of the joint and wear it out faster. The currie joints are designed to be in a neutral position (like stock) but on taller lifts.​

Sounds like I might want to leave the lift alone for now.. I’d much rather have better steering.. lowering it is just a preference I suppose.