Pennzoil bought Quaker State, then Shell bought it all.dont you dare use that Q word on this here forum !I'd use water before I would put that shit in my engine
Same shit, different packaging.
Lifter noise after oil change with Penzoil High Mileage
- Thread starter brewtus98
- Start date
Same shit, different packaging.
And there's not a thing wrong with any of them, I'd run any of those brands in my TJ without any hesitation.
I mainly use Pennzoil, but I’ve used other brands with no trouble. The only oil I don’t like is Valvoline.
I use Castrol GTX high mileage synthetic blend. No special reason, just started using it with older engines.
I had the same experience a few days after changing. Some really loud ticking on startup that stopped in a minute or two. Happened a few times, but then stopped. Now on cold days I can hear a little bit, but it's the sort of thing you have to listen for. And after it warms up it stops and sounds perfectly smooth.
I had the same experience a few days after changing. Some really loud ticking on startup that stopped in a minute or two. Happened a few times, but then stopped. Now on cold days I can hear a little bit, but it's the sort of thing you have to listen for. And after it warms up it stops and sounds perfectly smooth.
Years ago the shop I worked at used bulk valvoline. It made a racket in my TJ and WJ. The Valvoline rep suggested using the synthetic instead, which I did. No difference.Ha Valvoline is my main go-to engine oil.
The next time the rep was in, I told him there was no difference. His next statement was to try adding their oil additive.
I shouldn’t have to add an additive to an already expensive oil just to quiet down the lifters.
That was the last time I used Valvoline.
Old_Crow
TJ Enthusiast
I've always been a Castrol guy from back when I had Japanese motorcycles and changed the oil every 1500 miles. When I got my first Harley ('74 Sporty) I switched to Valvoline because you could get the straight 50wt at any parts store or Walmart.
I've been using Mobil One full synthetic in my motor home, and the Mobile One high mileage in the Jeep. I've just had the RMS replaced in the Jeep and I'm switching back to a conventional high mileage from now on. I'll continue to use the Mobil One in the motor home as it has not exhibited any leaks. That motor sits for months at a time, where the Jeep gets driven several times a week.
As far as Pennzoil, I've seen motors gunked up with so much sludge that you couldn't see the rocker arms when you pulled the valve covers. Dude who owned the car swore he changed the oil and used Pennzoil every time. That's why I won't use it.
I've been using Mobil One full synthetic in my motor home, and the Mobile One high mileage in the Jeep. I've just had the RMS replaced in the Jeep and I'm switching back to a conventional high mileage from now on. I'll continue to use the Mobil One in the motor home as it has not exhibited any leaks. That motor sits for months at a time, where the Jeep gets driven several times a week.
As far as Pennzoil, I've seen motors gunked up with so much sludge that you couldn't see the rocker arms when you pulled the valve covers. Dude who owned the car swore he changed the oil and used Pennzoil every time. That's why I won't use it.
I’ve seen engines gunk up using Pennzoil, Castro, Cam2 and Valvoline.
In most cases it is lack of regular service intervals. Other conditions that cause it are high mileage vehicles with excessive blow by into the crank case. Poor PCV function not evacuating crankcase Vapor’s. Oxidation due to oil additives being burned off.
I had one customer throw a rod through the oil pan because her daughter went 28k miles on the factory fill oil and filter. The oil was like tar.
I see customer that reset their oil life 2-3x’s without an oil change.
One female customer actually thought that when you reset the oil life, the car changed the oil automatically.
I’ve never seen a properly maintained vehicle with a sludge issue.
aerojust
New Member
Same issue on my 05. First oil change since I bought it. Was very quiet before, not lifter tap. I have no clue what oil was in it. The filter was very small compared to the Mopar 090 I put on it. I put in 10w30 castrol conventional. It's hard to find conventional oil here. I was a little freaked out how the oil pressure gauge took a long time to come up....
I did someone above running T4 10w-30. I have been running t5 or t6 in my cummins for a long time and it is quit and happy. Anyone have anythoughts on running t4. I almosot bought it at tractor supply. Im my mind at least this 4.0L has similar architecture to a 12v diesel.
I did someone above running T4 10w-30. I have been running t5 or t6 in my cummins for a long time and it is quit and happy. Anyone have anythoughts on running t4. I almosot bought it at tractor supply. Im my mind at least this 4.0L has similar architecture to a 12v diesel.
aerojust
New Member
Been changing oil for 30 plus years. Have never gone when Wally World oil route. Im open to it though.
I'd try 5w30 for the Hampton roads area.
Also, my 2005's oil sender said I had zero pressure a few years ago, which was solved by installing a new Moper sender. Something to consider moving forward if readings aren't realistic.
Also, you have to work pretty hard to find a true conventional oil now days, which I wouldn't want unless I was breaking in a new engine.
aerojust
New Member
I drove it about 20 minutes. Not ticking any more, ot not as loud as it was. I have been running synthetic in all my vehicles for a long time. Maybe Ill go that route next time. I was last changed at a shop according to the car fax, so it likely had synthetic in it.
Also my RMS had a small leak. It never would drip on the driveway. Now it left a drip or two overnight. I never thought an oil change would cause this...
Also my RMS had a small leak. It never would drip on the driveway. Now it left a drip or two overnight. I never thought an oil change would cause this...
aerojust
New Member
Conventional doesn't flow as well as syn. 10W flows slower than 5W.
Your 05 "oil pressure gauge" is nothing more than a switch that tells the PCM it has 6 PSi. Then the PCM moves the needle around a little.
Any 30W is going to have reduced ZDDP for the flat tappet cam due to EPA regs.
Euro 40 weights, diesel oil, or VR1 will have the most these days, but you have to actually verify the level in the diesel oil these days.
Is that the photo from Walmart's webpage? They left that up there for a long time after they went to syn-blend, but I think they show a new one now. Amazon showed the old Pennzoil photo saying "conventional" for years after it wasn't available, too.
So now I read every bottle before I buy it, and dig deep into the webpage and tech docs trying to get the real story. Sometimes there just is no real information to be had.
I gave up and started using Valvoline Syn Blend High Mileage Maxlife 10W-30. My RMS leak is down to about a drop a week. I think the High Mileage stuff is much more important than synthetic vs conventional.
My new Supertech oil is worded "5000 miles conventional protection". I just go for the high mileage stuff. I haven't had good luck with synthetic oil.
Last edited:
Similar threads
