Mr. Murphy strikes again

ok so i just looked at the torque spec chart which Chris was very helpful in posting so here is my question. torqueing the bolts as it said to 30 ftlbs caused the gasket to squeeze out ,so when using rtv due you still torque it to 30 ft lbs. thanks. prepping it isn't an issue as i have a scothbrite pad on a air grinder so it was spotless in no time and as suggested i covered the gears with a clean rag

I don't know what the chart says but I know a fair bit about bolts and there isn't a 5/16" bolt made that I would tighten to 30 ft lbs and not expect to have a problem with at some point. I guess I need to start checking to see what we are tightening them to.

A bit more research confirms what I know. There is a bolt that can take almost 30 ft lbs but it is grade 9 black oxide, clean and dry with no lube. RTV is a lube and since we can't guarantee we won't get some on the threads, there is no way I'm trying to tighten normal grade 8 to 30 without expecting some issues. The consequence of lube is you have to lower the torque value since you don't have the same amount of overall friction to overcome when you torque the bolts and lower friction means you lower the torque value.
 
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Clean up very good. Keep in mind Prep is the key.
RTV (red or Black)
Tighten down the cover on start pattern. I does it on two steps 15 Lbs torque / 15 Lbs torque.
Refill after 30 -45 minutes.

I/we always did them from the bottom middle then work up; middle, left, right, left, right, etc until you reach the top. Like Blaine, I always start the very top bolt first to hold the cover from sliding off sideways and to line up the holes.

Blaine also brings up a great point; make sure there is no rtv in the bolt holes.
 
I'm assuming you meant a star pattern.
@mrblaine your assumption is correct, I mean star pattern.

I have a question. If you wanted to tighten them in a pattern that was absolutely guaranteed to cause a leak, what would it be?

As you said, this is a tricky question.

Trick question because there is no pattern you can use that will cause a diff cover to leak just due to the order that you tighten the bolts in. Just make sure all of them are started in the holes and snugged down to the face of the cover before you start tightening.

I do agree with you, is not any specific pattern that will cause the diff cover to leak, especially if RTV is used. I do suggest this sequence as many fellas tend not to snug all the bolts first and move into the full torque on bolt #1. I just like to tight things down evenly as possible.
 
A typical felt/paper gasket seals by absorbing whatever liquid it is containing.

I have a lube locker (reuseable) on my Dana 30 and a Fel-Pro gasket (non-reuseable) on my Dana 35. I have no leaks.

The Fel-Pro (purchased from Autozone/Advance or wherever) is a rubberized gasket, not paper or felt. It does conform to the irregularities of the surfaces because the gasket is pushed in slightly. I wouldn't hesitate to use one when I change the fluid. Sure, in a few years it might become a little brittle, but that just means I need to re-lube the diff anyway. No need to deal with the messiness of the RTV.

The lube locker is nice because it's reuseable. I've read other forums where people have used them for close to 10 years and still have no problems with the original.
 
He’s back. Went to get my 59 and trailer when i got home I had to move my Jeep and it wouldn’t start so I had to let it roll down the driveway, well I couldn’t push it uphill so harbor freight to the rescue

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There is a rtv that cures fast is awesome...can is kind of like cheese whiz...air filled type can.... O Reilly’s has it...it’s 20 bucks....guys even make motor mounts with it.


Thread sounds like me....I screw stuff up trying to take care such good care of it sometimes.
 
I'll stick with my lube locker gaskets. I hate using RTV, such a mess and there is a dry time.
 
Actually there is a wide variety of types and applications... If you're going for adhesion... You would mate clean surfaces immediately... If you're going for a compressive assembly and need volume allowing it to cure some would create that and the pressure would negate the need for adhesion.

Room temperature Vulcanizing silicone is basically known because it can live its life underwater.

Every manufacturer is going to put all kinds of parameters on their products because they don't know what they're really going to be exposed to in terms of chemicals...but shops figure out what works and prove it daily.