Under load (when you press the throttle) the load is transferred through the driveline raising the pinion up. So, at ride height sitting in your driveway not under load you set it a bit low.
Under load (when you press the throttle) the load is transferred through the driveline raising the pinion up. So, at ride height sitting in your driveway not under load you set it a bit low.
Everything is reassembled. I plan on running 400-500 miles under 50 MPH and changing fluid again. We'll see what happens.
Less than 10 miles, same vibrations. If anybody knows any reputable shops in the Kentucky / Tennessee area let me know, please.
I'm about 45 minutes from the TN line. Chattanooga isn't completely out of the question. Do they have a website or anything with some info?
Here is the link. Give them a call maybe they can help you out. At one time alot of their guys ra. TJ's.
https://share.google/DwolK8SJr6wbcmQgL
https://share.google/DwolK8SJr6wbcmQgL
Greatly appreciate it!
Just came across this thread though.. I also went from 3.07 open diff to a TrueTrac. Has me wondering.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-end-moves-side-to-side-after-rear-axle-rebuild.72381/page-2
Do you have a driveline issue causing vibration that kills differential bearings. Did they drive after the rebuild and advise?
Just jacked the rear end up at the shop. Both axles have a fair bit of play and can be moved in and out with little force. This is sounding exactly like the True Trac clunking issue that I linked. No throttle, axles stay in place. Under throttle, axles slide out.
Would also explain the clunking I was attributing to control arms around corners. The axles walk.
Might buy an open carrier or a duragrip and see what happens.
Would also explain the clunking I was attributing to control arms around corners. The axles walk.
Might buy an open carrier or a duragrip and see what happens.
Pinion angle front and rear have been adjusted multiple times at this point. Little bit one way, little bit another, no improvement.
Hey @machoheadgames do you happen to have the contact info for the guy who made your True Trac spacer in this post?
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-end-moves-side-to-side-after-rear-axle-rebuild.72381/
Would like to give that a shot.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-end-moves-side-to-side-after-rear-axle-rebuild.72381/
Would like to give that a shot.
I’ll send you a PM with the info. The spacer definitely fixes the clunk of axle shafts walking, but I don’t think any of that will ever relate to any sort of vibration or bad bearings.
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Spacer fixed the clunking. Still a severe vibration as you get in and out of the throttle at roughly 40MPH and above. At this point, I'm over it and the Jeep is going to be parked for the foreseeable future, and will likely be selling off the hardtop, axles and transmission.
Thanks for insight anybody included here.
Thanks for insight anybody included here.
The devil is going to be in the details. You went from 3.07 gears to 4.88 gears…that is a 58% increase in driveshaft speeds at any given vehicle speed. You mentioned “above 50 mph” as a data point early on in the thread, so I mapped out your numbers. At 55 mph, your driveshaft is at 2835 rpm. With 3.07s, you would have had to go 87 mph to achieve the same driveshaft speed.
While you also have the lower speed vibrations with the clutch disengaged now, that could also be just because your speeds are much quicker now than they were before.
So with 3.07s, how fast did you drive? If you putted around, you likely didn’t reach the problematic driveshaft speed points.
Back to the subject of the regear - why were all the bearings diagnosed as “shot”? If that were true, then then redoing the work should have fixed it. Sounds like a Hail Mary attempt and that maybe the bearings were okay.
At this point I would remove the rear shaft, drive in FWD, and reevaluate. If problems go away, you know where your problem is. If they don’t, you don’t. Removing the front shaft made no difference, so I would assume your front is good to go and there *should* be no vibrations if you drive without the rear shaft.
You can park it but unless you simply have no time, there’s no real reason this can’t be fixed or dramatically improved.
While you also have the lower speed vibrations with the clutch disengaged now, that could also be just because your speeds are much quicker now than they were before.
So with 3.07s, how fast did you drive? If you putted around, you likely didn’t reach the problematic driveshaft speed points.
Back to the subject of the regear - why were all the bearings diagnosed as “shot”? If that were true, then then redoing the work should have fixed it. Sounds like a Hail Mary attempt and that maybe the bearings were okay.
At this point I would remove the rear shaft, drive in FWD, and reevaluate. If problems go away, you know where your problem is. If they don’t, you don’t. Removing the front shaft made no difference, so I would assume your front is good to go and there *should* be no vibrations if you drive without the rear shaft.
You can park it but unless you simply have no time, there’s no real reason this can’t be fixed or dramatically improved.
With the 3.07's, I'm pretty sure I'd drove 70+ a handful of times... but honestly can't remember. I don't remember any vibration beforehand, but it could've been slight enough that I chalked it up to high speed mud tires. Having a vibe.
I'm of the impression now that the lower speed vibes are not necessarily related. Possibly tires or something. They're not really a similar vibe, so we'll toss that one out.
However, the vibration is most prevalent at around 45-50 +, as you ease onto or off the throttle. To the floor, doesn't do it. Completely off throttle, doesn't do it.
To clarify, the bearings that had damage were the carrier bearings. The were "sunk in" to the races and missing a fair bit of material from the race and the bearing. The rest were "ok" but filled with metal shavings.
I actually did that yesterday. No vibes. Ran it to around 75.
I have the time to throw whatever at it, but at this point I've barely put any miles on my Wrangler since I embarked on the lift/ re-gear/ bigger tires journey... $5000 + in parts/tires/ whatever... and a Jeep that I can't drive without fear of serious failure. Beyond frustrated with the fact I've thrown a handful of dead Benjamin's at something I can't drive at all. It's probably time to walk away for a while and reevaluate the plan.
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