Sequence of correcting a crap lift

[cpwolf]

View attachment 643076
So 3 weeks ago my 24 JLUR was stolen out of my driveway and taken to Mexico for the cartel to run drugs around the jungle.



I bought an 05 LJ Rubicon to replace it. Interior, exterior, motor and trans (manual) seem to be in very good shape. It’s got 61,000 on the odometer, though I have a suspicion it’s got a lot of flat tow miles as well. This is my rig to get to my cabin, do some moderate rock crawling and in the winter goes on snow tracks to get me to said cabin. I do trailer it occasionally, mainly when it’s on the snow tracks.



It has 35” tires with a crappy 4” lift consisting of skyjacker lower control arms front and back, skyjacker springs, 1.5” transfer case drop, dropped pitman arm, relocated front and rear trac bar mounts. It had Rancho 9000 shocks that were the wrong length, designed for a 2.5” lift and only had 1/2” of down travel. Front axle was off-center almost an inch. Front and rear driveshafts are factory. It rubs pretty bad on the front lower control arms.



This weekend I did some maintenance/upgrades:

Spicer ball joints

Timkin unit bearings

Spicer front axle u-joints

Currie Currectlynk steering

Rock jock front track bar (centered axle)

New, correct length, Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks all the way around with Currie’s rear shock relocation brackets



I aligned it and it seems to drive almost perfectly. The only exception is that the Rancho steering damper subdues the return to center, I think it’s too stiff. Road tested with and without it, big difference, without the damper it returns perfectly.



I have a growing list of things I’d like to do to it, with the following main goals:

Maximize ground clearance, specifically in the t-case region

Stop rubbing on control arms and hopefully run bead locks.

Upgrade steering eventually to hydro assist for the snow tracks (tracks are 5ft long and 16” wide, really hard to steer)

Have a solid, reliable lift to run 37s. Keep D44s to start and upgrade when they break.



My list of upgrades will occur as money/wife allow. Next plan is to do the 1” motor mount lift and 1.25” body lift. My question is will this allow me to remove the t-case drop? Keep in mind I have the factory rear driveshaft and non-adjustable control arms. Next two items will be adjustable control arms and double cardan rear driveshaft. I’m assuming I can’t order the rear driveshaft until I set the rear piñon angle properly.

I have an 05 TJ with similar stuff when purchased in 2015.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2005-texas-jeep-tj-never-sell-build.37076/

I have a build thread where a lot of this is, but I had to start a little differently.

My CA bushings were toast, on a 3.5” Rancho old lift,It had fixed lower CAs from Rancho and spring and spacer combo for the 3.5”. A TC drop, pretty thick one.
33” tires at the time.

I had to do a SS SYE you don’t.

I got it to all but the MML and BL and put a new DS. Pretty sure Shawn at TWood’s said I could get it, add the Savvy transfer skid and it would still be good.

I don’t have experience going up to 37’s.

 

[cpwolf]

I will say with the 35” BFG Muds, the 4.88’s are very good for my TJ 6 speed.

I also buy a B&M shifter on it, I found one come up for $200 off a Jk that was sold, and got it for a great deal, not sure I would for $600+, ha

 

[HeffTJ]

Yes, it will. You could probably talk to Adam's or Tom Woods about your plans and they can maybe help you get a good number. But measuring it post changes will be the best. Another thing you could do is jack up the drive train to the approximate location of where the skid will put it and measure. That should have you really dang close and you'll have enough slip in the DS to account for it.

Where are Adam's or Tom Woods located? I'd like to give them a call about a "lift" question I have on my 2005. Thank you.

 

[macleanflood]

Where are Adam's or Tom Woods located? I'd like to give them a call about a "lift" question I have on my 2005. Thank you.

Tom Woods is in Utah and Adams is in Las Vegas. All info available on their websites.

-Mac

 

[HeffTJ]

Tom Woods is in Utah and Adams is in Las Vegas. All info available on their websites.

-Mac

Terrific, thanks so much for the fast reply.

 

[SuperTramp]

Making some progress. Body lift, motor mount lift and shift cable are done. Front springs were changed out for Currie’s and I installed the Savvy arms on the front. I was able to remove the t-case drop and thankfully no vibrations. Though I will still do the DC driveshaft.

The only issue I had is the upper control arm bushings are shot on the axle side, and one of the radiator rubber bushings/jounce pads broke. Going to have to address those.

Today’s project is rear arms and springs if I can get motivated enough.

 

[Strizzo]

Making some progress. Body lift, motor mount lift and shift cable are done. Front springs were changed out for Currie’s and I installed the Savvy arms on the front. I was able to remove the t-case drop and thankfully no vibrations. Though I will still do the DC driveshaft.

The only issue I had is the upper control arm bushings are shot on the axle side, and one of the radiator rubber bushings/jounce pads broke. Going to have to address those.

Today’s project is rear arms and springs if I can get motivated enough.

I believe Adams has a SYE/Driveshaft Package you can order, and they also have a measurement you can take from your slip yoke to the axle to get the right length driveshaft so you don't have to install the SYE and then measure and wait some more for the driveshaft.

 

[SuperTramp]

I got the cross member in for the Savvy tummy tuck along with the rear control arms. Had to bend the shifter with a rebar hickey bar and a vice. Quite a bit of vibration at idle, some of went away clearancing the tub today (drivers side of t-case) but it’s still there, doesn’t seem to be hitting the tub anywhere I can see. Once I iron out the issues I’ll put the skid on.

I also had to replace the lower shift boot because the previous owner hacked it apart with a spoon.

Tom Wood driveshaft should be here Tuesday. I’m planning to relocate locker pumps this weekend and do the rear springs.

I think I have an unusual issue, if I park facing downhill it leaks oil, right about at the front of the bell housing. I figure it’s either the rear main seal leaking back into the bell housing and then pouring out when facing downhill, or the front end of the trans… any ideas?

 

[AndyG]

View attachment 643076
So 3 weeks ago my 24 JLUR was stolen out of my driveway and taken to Mexico for the cartel to run drugs around the jungle.



I bought an 05 LJ Rubicon to replace it. Interior, exterior, motor and trans (manual) seem to be in very good shape. It’s got 61,000 on the odometer, though I have a suspicion it’s got a lot of flat tow miles as well. This is my rig to get to my cabin, do some moderate rock crawling and in the winter goes on snow tracks to get me to said cabin. I do trailer it occasionally, mainly when it’s on the snow tracks.



It has 35” tires with a crappy 4” lift consisting of skyjacker lower control arms front and back, skyjacker springs, 1.5” transfer case drop, dropped pitman arm, relocated front and rear trac bar mounts. It had Rancho 9000 shocks that were the wrong length, designed for a 2.5” lift and only had 1/2” of down travel. Front axle was off-center almost an inch. Front and rear driveshafts are factory. It rubs pretty bad on the front lower control arms.



This weekend I did some maintenance/upgrades:

Spicer ball joints

Timkin unit bearings

Spicer front axle u-joints

Currie Currectlynk steering

Rock jock front track bar (centered axle)

New, correct length, Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks all the way around with Currie’s rear shock relocation brackets



I aligned it and it seems to drive almost perfectly. The only exception is that the Rancho steering damper subdues the return to center, I think it’s too stiff. Road tested with and without it, big difference, without the damper it returns perfectly.



I have a growing list of things I’d like to do to it, with the following main goals:

Maximize ground clearance, specifically in the t-case region

Stop rubbing on control arms and hopefully run bead locks.

Upgrade steering eventually to hydro assist for the snow tracks (tracks are 5ft long and 16” wide, really hard to steer)

Have a solid, reliable lift to run 37s. Keep D44s to start and upgrade when they break.



My list of upgrades will occur as money/wife allow. Next plan is to do the 1” motor mount lift and 1.25” body lift. My question is will this allow me to remove the t-case drop? Keep in mind I have the factory rear driveshaft and non-adjustable control arms. Next two items will be adjustable control arms and double cardan rear driveshaft. I’m assuming I can’t order the rear driveshaft until I set the rear piñon angle properly.

You came to the right place.

If you will follow the advice of some of the professional and hard-core enthusiast on here you will get great results with such a good platform.

The owners of the rigs on here have tools, largely do their own work.

I’m not saying all the other forum advice out there is inaccurate at all… but if it is on here, it’s typically been proven.

 

[mrblaine]

View attachment 653876I got the cross member in for the Savvy tummy tuck along with the rear control arms. Had to bend the shifter with a rebar hickey bar and a vice. Quite a bit of vibration at idle, some of went away clearancing the tub today (drivers side of t-case) but it’s still there, doesn’t seem to be hitting the tub anywhere I can see. Once I iron out the issues I’ll put the skid on.

I also had to replace the lower shift boot because the previous owner hacked it apart with a spoon.

Tom Wood driveshaft should be here Tuesday. I’m planning to relocate locker pumps this weekend and do the rear springs.

I think I have an unusual issue, if I park facing downhill it leaks oil, right about at the front of the bell housing. I figure it’s either the rear main seal leaking back into the bell housing and then pouring out when facing downhill, or the front end of the trans… any ideas?

Sadly, if you don't pull that trans mount and get the two sides welded all the way, it will crack out and fail when you least need it to. You might consider a cable shifter.

 

[mrblaine]

View attachment 653876I got the cross member in for the Savvy tummy tuck along with the rear control arms. Had to bend the shifter with a rebar hickey bar and a vice. Quite a bit of vibration at idle, some of went away clearancing the tub today (drivers side of t-case) but it’s still there, doesn’t seem to be hitting the tub anywhere I can see. Once I iron out the issues I’ll put the skid on.

I also had to replace the lower shift boot because the previous owner hacked it apart with a spoon.

Tom Wood driveshaft should be here Tuesday. I’m planning to relocate locker pumps this weekend and do the rear springs.

I think I have an unusual issue, if I park facing downhill it leaks oil, right about at the front of the bell housing. I figure it’s either the rear main seal leaking back into the bell housing and then pouring out when facing downhill, or the front end of the trans… any ideas?

Further, if the nuts at the bushings are serrated flange, they don't go on top of a washer, they go against the crossmember and the washer goes under the head of the bolt. Similar to how you have the bolts and nuts at the exhaust hanger. This is also a good time to acquire some extruded U nuts for the rear flange on the crossmember. It is difficult to access that area with the 241 to get the regular flange nuts started. The u-nuts solve that very nicely.

Not routing the fuel pump harness up over the cross member is a problem that is easily solved with some cutting and splicing. Or at least that is how we would do it since that is easier than dropping that side to correct the routing.

 

[SuperTramp]

Sadly, if you don't pull that trans mount and get the two sides welded all the way, it will crack out and fail when you least need it to. You might consider a cable shifter.

I do have the Savvy shift cable installed for the t-case. I’m not sure I understand the welding needed on the trans mount, is this what you mean:

 

[SuperTramp]

Further, if the nuts at the bushings are serrated flange, they don't go on top of a washer, they go against the crossmember and the washer goes under the head of the bolt. Similar to how you have the bolts and nuts at the exhaust hanger. This is also a good time to acquire some extruded U nuts for the rear flange on the crossmember. It is difficult to access that area with the 241 to get the regular flange nuts started. The u-nuts solve that very nicely.

Not routing the fuel pump harness up over the cross member is a problem that is easily solved with some cutting and splicing. Or at least that is how we would do it since that is easier than dropping that side to correct the routing.

Thanks. I’ll check the bolts that go through the bushings. Apparently, I got the wrong hardware kit, savvy is sending some additional hardware. There were very few washers in the kit (5 I think), but it seemed almost all the nuts were serrated. I did notice my mistake on the wiring, harness, doh!

 

[SuperTramp]

I have the rear springs out, checking flex and rear axle location. The shock are bottoming out before contacting the jounce pad, I assume I need longer bump stops.

 

[mrblaine]

I do have the Savvy shift cable installed for the t-case. I’m not sure I understand the welding needed on the trans mount, is this what you mean:

View attachment 653901

That is the crossmember, not the transmission mount. The transmission mount is the part that bolts directly to the transmission.

 

[SuperTramp]

That is the crossmember, not the transmission mount. The transmission mount is the part that bolts directly to the transmission.

Here? Whoever welded, it staggered the welds to either side, but it is pretty much welded all the way. I tried to get a photo showing both sides.

 

[SuperTramp]

I think I have an unusual issue, if I park facing downhill it leaks oil, right about at the front of the bell housing. I figure it’s either the rear main seal leaking back into the bell housing and then pouring out when facing downhill, or the front end of the trans… any ideas?

Looks like it is from the transmission. I think the previous owner put engine oil in the trans, it feels like regular 30w and is a golden color. It’s not engine oil as the oil in the engine is much darker right now, unknown miles since last oil change.

 

[SuperTramp]

I got the missing hardware from Savvy and put the skid plate in for a trip this weekend to Shuteye pass. If I need to pull it to reweld the trans mount it shouldn’t be a big deal.

Changed out the transfer case & transmission fluid to MTL. Neither were low, though there was some metallic residue in the transmission. Wondering if it’s even worth rebuilding trans or fixing leak, or just wait and then swap out to an AX15.

I’ll try an post some pictures of the work and trip next week.

 

[GregBelleville]

I got the missing hardware from Savvy and put the skid plate in for a trip this weekend to Shuteye pass. If I need to pull it to reweld the trans mount it shouldn’t be a big deal.

Changed out the transfer case & transmission fluid to MTL. Neither were low, though there was some metallic residue in the transmission. Wondering if it’s even worth rebuilding trans or fixing leak, or just wait and then swap out to an AX15.

I’ll try an post some pictures of the work and trip next week.

Where is shuteye pass, never heard of it? Off the 395 somewhere?

 

[SuperTramp]

Where is shuteye pass, never heard of it? Off the 395 somewhere?

No, the other side. It's near Bass Lake, just south of Yosemite.