Preventative maintenance on new to me Jeep

[tristan6555]

Bought a wrangler with 144k miles. Looks like most of everything is original minus lift and tires. My question is what all would you go through and change. I did notice a clicking and roaring noise so I put a new hub assembly on the side. Still making a slight clicking noise but not as bad now. I know I need to change the hub on the driver side now also.

 

[inkedrose]

I like to get a baseline with any vehicle I buy. Go through and do all fluids- oil change, diffs, T-case, trans, coolant flush, grease everything, ect.. At 144k who knows when what was done last. From there the Jeep will tell you what it wants done next

 

[Zorba]

Belts and water pump.

 

[tristan6555]

I like to get a baseline with any vehicle I buy. Go through and do all fluids- oil change, diffs, T-case, trans, coolant flush, grease everything, ect.. At 144k who knows when what was done last. From there the Jeep will tell you what it wants done next

Well I do know the oil was changed about 2500 miles ago and idk if this amounts to anything but the front differential fluid isnt black. I did have to put a hub assembly on it today. Probably should do the other side. It didnt look like it had ever been changed. Straightened up a roar from that side but im still hearing a clicking sound from somewhere in that area.

 

[tristan6555]

Belts and water pump.

Im sure the radiator hoses and belt wouldn't be a bad idea. Not sure ill do the water pump until I have an issue there.

 

[inkedrose]

Well I do know the oil was changed about 2500 miles ago and idk if this amounts to anything but the front differential fluid isnt black. I did have to put a hub assembly on it today. Probably should do the other side. It didnt look like it had ever been changed. Straightened up a roar from that side but im still hearing a clicking sound from somewhere in that area.

You sure you do t have lunch box locker?

 

[tristan6555]

You sure you do t have lunch box locker?

No im not 100 percent sure. I know the guy I bought it from said everything was stock but the lift and tires. What makes you ask that though? I did spin the passenger side wheel while it was jacked up today. It makes the driveshaft spin but thats it. Then I lifted the other side up and when I would spin a wheel the other wheel would spin with it. The drive shift didnt spin when I did it that way. Not sure if that tells you anything

 

[Zorba]

Im sure the radiator hoses and belt wouldn't be a bad idea. Not sure ill do the water pump until I have an issue there.

Yea, and hoses. My brain is still processing tonite's dance class and isn't firing on all cylinders...

Water pump is up to you - I have always replaced the water pump ASAFP after buying a new-to-me vehicle. The one time I didn't was my Jeep - I guess I was HUA on that because it failed on me inside of about a year.

 

[inkedrose]

Here’s a good thread. Anything more than a flush I’d just do it all. Wearable parts.

gohttps://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-cooling-system-overhaul-faq.3397/

No im not 100 percent sure. I know the guy I bought it from said everything was stock but the lift and tires. What makes you ask that though? I did spin the passenger side wheel while it was jacked up today. It makes the driveshaft spin but thats it. Then I lifted the other side up and when I would spin a wheel the other wheel would spin with it. The drive shift didnt spin when I did it that way. Not sure if that tells you anything

Some one smarter than me can give you a better answer but they are known to pop and bang when you turn. Pretty common for people to put them up front. I'm pretty sure they need to load pressure/torque to work.
Here's what google told me to test:
Here's how to check for a lunchbox locker:

1. Drive in 2WD: Drive your Jeep in 2WD and make slow, tight turns.
2. Listen for the sound: You should hear a distinct "ratcheting" or "clunking" sound as the locker disengages, allowing the tires to turn independently. In 4WD, the locker will engage automatically when torque is applied.
3. Check for a lock-up: In 4WD, you will feel the front axle "lock up" and engage, which is a sign of an automatic locker. A lunchbox locker will not be visible during 2WD driving, and the sound will only be heard during turns when the mechanism disengages.

 

[inkedrose]

By the way... welcome to the group!

 

[tristan6555]

Here’s a good thread. Anything more than a flush I’d just do it all. Wearable parts.

gohttps://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-cooling-system-overhaul-faq.3397/


Some one smarter than me can give you a better answer but they are known to pop and bang when you turn. Pretty common for people to put them up front. I'm pretty sure they need to load pressure/torque to work.
Here's what google told me to test:
Here's how to check for a lunchbox locker:

1. Drive in 2WD: Drive your Jeep in 2WD and make slow, tight turns.
2. Listen for the sound: You should hear a distinct "ratcheting" or "clunking" sound as the locker disengages, allowing the tires to turn independently. In 4WD, the locker will engage automatically when torque is applied.
3. Check for a lock-up: In 4WD, you will feel the front axle "lock up" and engage, which is a sign of an automatic locker. A lunchbox locker will not be visible during 2WD driving, and the sound will only be heard during turns when the mechanism disengages.

O ok i dont think its from a locker. Its like a ticking or clicking. Without the doors on its noticeable and steady but not loud at 20mph. It does it going straight or turning. Its not a rock in a tire or nothing like that either. I cant get it to do it when its jacked up.

 

[CharlesHS]

Well I do know the oil was changed about 2500 miles ago and idk if this amounts to anything but the front differential fluid isnt black. I did have to put a hub assembly on it today. Probably should do the other side. It didnt look like it had ever been changed. Straightened up a roar from that side but im still hearing a clicking sound from somewhere in that area.

A clicking sound in the general area could be one of the front axle U joints gone bad.
Take a look at the U joint cup seal to see if there are rusty particles where the trunion and cup meet; this will indicate dry rusty needle bearings moving that will make a clicking sound when the axle is rotating.

 

[tr21triton]

welcome to the forum and please fill out your profile and give us more info on your the year of your Jeep . I had a ticking/clicking on mine at low speed that about drove me nuts. I knew it was coming from the rear driver side. I have disc brakes on the rear and it ended up being my parking brake shoe had came apart. I would change ALL fluids (diff fluids, trans and transfer case and eng. oil) add thermocure and flush your cooling system and change spark plugs XP985's. And take a look at the HOW-TO and RESOURCES sections they are great for additional knowledge and you can even download the manual and parts list for your Jeep for FREE ! And if you plan on hanging out here become a supporting member and help Chris keep this great site going

 

[tristan6555]

By the way... welcome to the group!

Thanks happy to be here

A clicking sound in the general area could be one of the front axle U joints gone bad.
Take a look at the U joint cup seal to see if there are rusty particles where the trunion and cup meet; this will indicate dry rusty needle bearings moving that will make a clicking sound when the axle is rotating.

One thing I noticed is just about everything on the axles and drive shafts is dry and has a coating of rust. Including the ujoints. The ujoints seemed good and tight when I changed the wheel hub so I took it as they were good. I didnt think about the needles moving around.

 

[jeepguy03]

I like to get a baseline with any vehicle I buy. Go through and do all fluids- oil change, diffs, T-case, trans, coolant flush, grease everything, ect.. At 144k who knows when what was done last. From there the Jeep will tell you what it wants done next

+1

Whenever I pick up a used "new to me" vehicle or piece of equipment I do a baseline with all the fluids. Fluids degrade over time and get contaminants in them, water, etc, so doing a drain and fill on everything is peace of mind. It also gives you a good idea on the condition of things, like changing the diff oil allows you to pull the cover and see the condition of the gears and if you have a locker. Draining the coolant will let you know if the system is full of rust and needs to be flushed before the Jeep overheats. The newest TJ is almost 20 years old, it has possibly had many sets of hands touching things over the years.

As far as the hubs, I used to replace them in pairs, but now I'm of the opinion that if the other side is fine just leave it alone. Many times these days new parts don't always mean good parts, even if you buy "quality" parts from brands like Timken. The clicking is likely a failing u-joint, but it might not be from the axle shafts, it could be from one of the driveshafts. It might be worth pulling the driveshafts one at a time and driving with only one shaft in (4hi with only the front shaft in to drive it around) and see if the noise goes away.

Welcome to the site, there are many knowledgable folks here.

 

[macleanflood]

Belts and water pump.

And I'd probably add crank, tensioner and idler pulleys. Definitely check the fan clutch.

Injector o-rings are often never replaced and cheap and easy.

-Mac

 

[DirtDawg]

Agreed on those suggested tasks. My 2005 purchased 4 mos ago (approaching 92k miles now) is a dedicated trail rig. With objective of reasonable reliability in remote off-pavement locations being of primary importance, I completed these (in the order listed);

Recharged A/C (Schrader valve leak)
Replaced battery
Replaced (5) tires (33x12.5R15 BFG KM3)
Replaced PCM with WranglerFix (proactively on known 2005-2006 issue)
Replaced F&R diff gear oils (confirmed 5.13 from stamped numbers on ring gear)
Replaced spark plugs plus K&N CAI with an OEM airbox from eBay
Serviced cooling system (flush, hoses, t-stat, cap, CTC clamps, serp belt, Zerex)
Replaced engine oil/filter
Replaced shocks and steering stabilizer
Serviced 42RLE trans (new trans iso mount, pan, filter, complete flush, ATF+4)
Replaced t-case ATF+4
Replaced blown out muffler with somewhat less noisy version

Still to-do list;

Service brakes (possibly just F&R pads) plus flush lines
Replace OPDA (no "noises" but new Crown pump on-hand)
Replace Rubicon Express control arms (5.5" L-A bushings shot)
Possibly replace OEM steering box with a rebuilt unit

 

[tr21triton]

Agreed on those suggested tasks. My 2005 purchased 4 mos ago (approaching 92k miles now) is a dedicated trail rig. With objective of reasonable reliability in remote off-pavement locations being of primary importance, I completed these (in the order listed);

Recharged A/C (Schrader valve leak)
Replaced battery
Replaced (5) tires (33x12.5R15 BFG KM3)
Replaced PCM with WranglerFix (proactively on known 2005-2006 issue)
Replaced F&R diff gear oils (confirmed 5.13 from stamped numbers on ring gear)
Replaced spark plugs plus K&N CAI with an OEM airbox from eBay
Serviced cooling system (flush, hoses, t-stat, cap, CTC clamps, serp belt, Zerex)
Replaced engine oil/filter
Replaced shocks and steering stabilizer
Serviced 42RLE trans (new trans iso mount, pan, filter, complete flush, ATF+4)
Replaced t-case ATF+4
Replaced blown out muffler with somewhat less noisy version

Still to-do list;

Service brakes (possibly just F&R pads) plus flush lines
Replace OPDA (no "noises" but new Crown pump on-hand)
Replace Rubicon Express control arms (5.5" L-A bushings shot)
Possibly replace OEM steering box with a rebuilt unit

And that's the best way to do it!

 

[tristan6555]

By the way... welcome to the group!

Thanks happy to be here

A clicking sound in the general area could be one of the front axle U joints gone bad.
Take a look at the U joint cup seal to see if there are rusty particles where the trunion and cup meet; this will indicate dry rusty needle bearings moving that will make a clicking sound when the axle is rotating.

One thing I noticed is just about everything on the axles and drive shafts is dry and has a coating of rust. Including the ujoints. The ujoints seemed good and tight when I changed the wheel hub so I took it as they were good. I didnt think about the needles moving around

welcome to the forum and please fill out your profile and give us more info on your the year of your Jeep . I had a ticking/clicking on mine at low speed that about drove me nuts. I knew it was coming from the rear driver side. I have disc brakes on the rear and it ended up being my parking brake shoe had came apart. I would change ALL fluids (diff fluids, trans and transfer case and eng. oil) add thermocure and flush your cooling system and change spark plugs XP985's. And take a look at the HOW-TO and RESOURCES sections they are great for additional knowledge and you can even download the manual and parts list for your Jeep for FREE ! And if you plan on hanging out here become a supporting member and help Chris keep this great site going

It wasnt the front passenger it was the rear. I jacked up the back today and spun the tires. It was the strut bracket in the drum brakes. It came off and was against the drum. I removed it for now. Ill have to get a new setup

 

[Sahara_Green_4.0]

Welcome, when I bought my TJ most of it was all original, owned by an old man. The first think I did was change the radiator, water pump, thermostat and hoses, Also breaks and break pump. Change of oil/filter, air filter, sparkplugs, belt/belt tensioner. And last differential fluids and gas pump. Always inspect your frame. I'm not saying you have to do everything. But in my experience, the Jeep has never given me any mayor problems. My advice is to try to buy the best quality possible for your budget.