Bar Pin Eliminator Under Shock Mount

XCRN

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I am looking at the idea of using one of the JKS/Metalcloak/RockJock bar pin for the front eliminators and installing under the axle side mount to get closer to a 50/50 bias and getting more uptravel with less bump stop extension. It looks like it would drop the mount .50” to .75” below the stock mounting position. Has anyone done something like this? I would get thick washers and Gr8 bolts to mount it to help maintain strength and prevent the threads from pulling out from the bottom.

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I think i've seen someone say they've done it, but it will probably depend on whether or not you are able to mount your front shocks with the shaft ponting down. other way around and you might run the body into the mount during articulation.
 
Interesting idea, I think I have a set laying around and have some bumpstop I could remove if it works. I may give it a try this weekend. If I do I’ll report back.
 
I think i've seen someone say they've done it, but it will probably depend on whether or not you are able to mount your front shocks with the shaft ponting down. other way around and you might run the body into the mount during articulation.

I run Foxes so shaft side is down.
 
On the front side you will run into your control Arm bracket. Since you have your welder out and you’re modifying that, you can save on the bar pins and just lower the axle mount for the shock. It would probably be easier to raise the upper towers or purchase new shocks that are correct measurements for your application.

I have seen someone with a body lift, raise the rear mounts up closer to the body, but only once as given the amount of work you may as well put board the shocks.

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On the front side you will run into your control Arm bracket. Since you have your welder out and you’re modifying that, you can save on the bar pins and just lower the axle mount for the shock. It would probably be easier to raise the upper towers or purchase new shocks that are correct measurements for your application.

I have seen someone with a body lift, raise the rear mounts up closer to the body, but only once as given the amount of work you may as well put board the shocks.

View attachment 635567

When I get my fox resi's rebuilt I'll just raise the top mount
 
The Artic axle brackets on my ECGS axle had bar pin eliminators built into them. I pressed out the bar pin & bushing and pressed in a normal bolt through shock bushing. It works much better IMO and gives you a lot more options for shocks.

I need to remove my shocks and measure travel and order custom length shocks. I think mine are now the limiting factor in travel.
 
On the front side you will run into your control Arm bracket. Since you have your welder out and you’re modifying that, you can save on the bar pins and just lower the axle mount for the shock. It would probably be easier to raise the upper towers or purchase new shocks that are correct measurements for your application.

I have seen someone with a body lift, raise the rear mounts up closer to the body, but only once as given the amount of work you may as well put board the shocks.

View attachment 635567

Thats the eventual plan, but I have 3 weeks and no shop space to do any cutting and welding so I want to borrow some 10in foxes from my TJ to put into my LJ for a long trip coming up. I did think about that but I can get one of the mounting blocks milled down to fit. Possibly a small 45deg chamfer on the corner might clear it.
 
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Yep, definitely possible for the eliminators. Didn’t have to grind much off at all. However, the shock eye probably wouldn’t fit. It’s a larger diameter than the blocks.

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Well went ahead and tried this and it was kinda successful. So could not use the blocks since the shock eye was way to big to fit lower between the spring perch and control arm mount but the pin it self can be mounted under and inserted through the shock eye. For the Fox shocks I had to do some grinding on the eye. This is not exactly the best method, but it will work for the last big trip I have planned. I think it gained about .5in of clearance so not the whole 1in I was hoping. Oh well, guess it was not all for nothing. I might get some washers with a saddle to help it sit flatter.

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Well went ahead and tried this and it was kinda successful. So could not use the blocks since the shock eye was way to big to fit lower between the spring perch and control arm mount but the pin it self can be mounted under and inserted through the shock eye. For the Fox shocks I had to do some grinding on the eye. This is not exactly the best method, but it will work for the last big trip I have planned. I think it gained about .5in of clearance so not the whole 1in I was hoping. Oh well, guess it was not all for nothing. I might get some washers with a saddle to help it sit flatter.

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I thought the shock sits on top,not under.

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Did you pull the springs and run everything through all points of articulation?

This from someone who's murdered three pairs of rear shocks for failing to be absolutely meticulous in checking.

-Mac
 
Did you pull the springs and run everything through all points of articulation?

This from someone who's murdered three pairs of rear shocks for failing to be absolutely meticulous in checking.

-Mac

I know,I’m using them two help make my shocks a little longer,after your rubicon troubles,I’m gonna have to get longer shocks before we make the trip,
 
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I thought the shock sits on top,not under.

View attachment 638956

Thats how its supposed to, I wanted to run it under to put larger shocks with reduced bump stop extension. So it did reduce the BS extension needed, just not as much as I was hoping.
Did you pull the springs and run everything through all points of articulation?

This from someone who's murdered three pairs of rear shocks for failing to be absolutely meticulous in checking.

-Mac

I know I am supposed to since all frames and axles are different, but I am basically borrowing my TJ shock setup that has been articulated many times without the springs and I know where it all is on there so I made an educated guess on where the BS extension needs to be on the LJ. It should be good enough for now until I have the time where I can really dig into it pull out welder and make the shock mounting points longer from each other.
 
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