Rebuilt transmission not shifting out of first gear

[Nicks1997TJ]

I need help.. I have a 1997 jeep TJ sport auto. I just got my transmission back from rebuild shop. Transmission will NOT shift out of first gear. Again this is an automatic jeep. When I manually shift it to second gear, it shifts absolutely great, no hard shifting no delayed shifting, it won’t shift out of first on its own, reverse and first does feel like it has a delay in power maybe limp mode.. I’ve checked fluid level with engine on and in neutral. Fluid level is fine. I’m either thinking it’s my transmission shift solenoid or throttle/kickdown cable adjustment. Allthough the throttle and kick down cable seems to have properly adjusted slack.i don’t have a multi meter to test TCC solenoid. But BEFOREI had transmission rebuild it did shift on its own, but was very delayed and hard shifting. After rebuild. Won’t shift by itself at all. But shifts manually perfectly.

EDIT: I have fixed the transmission not wanting to shift on its own by tightening the band screw on the transmission, took it for a test ride and it shifts good on its own now perfectly. Buttt I now have a 50% power loss it’s pretty bad and it feels like the jeep sometimes stays in 2nd when coming to a stop because of how hard I have to press on gas and RPS are screaming before it gets going. Feels under powered.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

I need help.. I have a 1997 jeep TJ sport auto. I just got my transmission back from rebuild shop. Transmission will NOT shift out of first gear. Again this is an automatic jeep. When I manually shift it to second gear, it shifts absolutely great, no hard shifting no delayed shifting, it won’t shift out of first on its own, reverse and first does feel like it has a delay in power maybe limp mode.. I’ve checked fluid level with engine on and in neutral. Fluid level is fine. I’m either thinking it’s my transmission shift solenoid or throttle/kickdown cable adjustment. Allthough the throttle and kick down cable seems to have properly adjusted slack.i don’t have a multi meter to test TCC solenoid. But BEFOREI had transmission rebuild it did shift on its own, but was very delayed and hard shifting. After rebuild. Won’t shift by itself at all. But shifts manually perfectly.

I have tried resetting negative
Battery terminal

 

[TheBoogieman]

I need help.. I have a 1997 jeep TJ sport auto. I just got my transmission back from rebuild shop. Transmission will NOT shift out of first gear.

Make the shop fix it or get your money back and take it to a better shop. It's not your responsibility to fix problems caused by an incompetent shop.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

Make the shop fix it or get your money back and take it to a better shop. It's not your responsibility to fix problems caused by an incompetent shop.

The reason I am asking this question is because this could be a transmission issue a sensor issue, wiring harness issue not necessarily just the transmission. I just stayed up all night trying to troubleshoot why it’s not shifting long story short. I took it on a test drive tightened the band adjustment on the transmission and now the transmission is shifting on its own perfectly nice and smooth, but there is a 50% power loss. The Jeep wants to go nowhere when I hit the gas same in reverse if I’m on a slight hill, it does not wanna go up. Shifting is fixed, but power loss is still relevant.

 

[Gilaguy23]

You likely just F'ed any warranty you might have received with the new trans dropping the pan and messing with it. Why? take the damn thing to the shop who did the work. Power loss, how about a FUBAR'ed torque converter maybe.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

You likely just F'ed any warranty you might have received with the new trans dropping the pan and messing with it. Why? take the damn thing to the shop who did the work. Power loss, how about a FUBAR'ed torque

You likely just F'ed any warranty you might have received with the new trans dropping the pan and messing with it. Why? take the damn thing to the shop who did the work. Power loss, how about a FUBAR'ed torque converter maybe.

i definitely didn’t f any warranty.. I didn’t even bring my Jeep to him. I removed my transmission myself and brought the transmission to him and he knows I’m installing the transmission by myself. How would that void any warranty whatsoever? Also, I have a 12,000 mile warranty on the rebuild, no matter what.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

You likely just F'ed any warranty you might have received with the new trans dropping the pan and messing with it. Why? take the damn thing to the shop who did the work. Power loss, how about a FUBAR'ed torque converter maybe.

I’d rather try and figure out if it’s a transmission issue or like a shift linkage or something mechanically in my Jeep before I have to leave my daily driver in a shop for two or three days

 

[hardtailpan]

So that year jeep is a 32RH 3 speed. The only electrically controlled thing on it is the lockup torque converter and it wouldn't have any of the symptoms you are talking about. This isn't a sensor thing. Bring it back to the shop. I assume you paid good money to have it rebuilt, and the point of doing that is so you don't have to do what you are doing now. It sounds like they screwed it up.

Also you say you tightened the band adjuster? Did you do it to spec, ie, torque it to it's inch lb spec and back it off X number of turns, or did you just spin it and took it for a drive? Doing that is a sure way to grendade this sucker and void your warranty.

 

[TheBoogieman]

i definitely didn’t f any warranty.. I didn’t even bring my Jeep to him. I removed my transmission myself and brought the transmission to him and he knows I’m installing the transmission by myself. How would that void any warranty whatsoever?

Bad move. They will claim installer error. I wish you the best of luck though and hope you get it figured out without too much added expense.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

Bad move. They will claim installer error. I wish you the best of luck though and hope you get it figured out without too much added expense.

Yeah sorry your wrong maybe at other shops but I talked to them and they said that is not true, thx for the heads up tho

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

So that year jeep is a 32RH 3 speed. The only electrically controlled thing on it is the lockup torque converter and it wouldn't have any of the symptoms you are talking about. This isn't a sensor thing. Bring it back to the shop. I assume you paid good money to have it rebuilt, and the point of doing that is so you don't have to do what you are doing now. It sounds like they screwed it up.

Also you say you tightened the band adjuster? Did you do it to spec, ie, torque it to it's inch lb spec and back it off X number of turns, or did you just spin it and took it for a drive? Doing that is a sure way to grendade this sucker and void your warranty.

I took it too 72 inch pounds and backed it off 2 and a half turns. This seemed to fix the transmission not shifting. It now shifts fine on its own. Now it just feels like sluggish when pressing gas pedal but when driving it shifts good now

 

[hear]

I took it too 72 inch pounds and backed it off 2 and a half turns. This seemed to fix the transmission not shifting. It now shifts fine on its own. Now it just feels like sluggish when pressing gas pedal but when driving it shifts good now

Are the rest of the shift points where you expect them to be? I know you said you did already, but I would look at the TV cable adjustment, as well as the linkage & return spring. Set incorrectly it can make your jeep feel extra sluggish off the line, but usually you'll see that along with shift points that are earlier than you're used to. Are you sure it's even in 1st? Try shifting manually to see if you get the pickup you should expect up in the power band for each gear.

You might also do a stall test to see if the torque converter is causing problems. I would be leary of a lot of things if the shop didn't properly adjust the kickdown screw. Out of curiosity, how did you set the torque on that with it in the jeep? And how did you hold the screw in place while tightening the hold down nut to ensure the screw didn't rotate on you? I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's hella hard to adjust it at all in tight quarters, much less all the other stuff you have to watch.

The reason I am asking this question is because this could be a transmission issue a sensor issue, wiring harness issue not necessarily just the transmission. I just stayed up all night trying to troubleshoot why it’s not shifting long story short. I took it on a test drive tightened the band adjustment on the transmission and now the transmission is shifting on its own perfectly nice and smooth, but there is a 50% power loss. The Jeep wants to go nowhere when I hit the gas same in reverse if I’m on a slight hill, it does not wanna go up. Shifting is fixed, but power loss is still relevant.

So when you hit the gas the rpms go up, but the jeep doesn't move until you get to sufficient RPM? Also, it's not the torque converter clutch/solenoid. That will either cause you to not lockup at cruising speed (not your problem), or if it is stuck engaged it would just make your engine stall.

You likely just F'ed any warranty you might have received with the new trans dropping the pan and messing with it.

He didn't have to drop the pan to do the kickdown adjustment.

Yeah sorry your wrong maybe at other shops but I talked to them and they said that is not true, thx for the heads up tho

Also, you might consider dialing that back a bit, hoss.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

Are the rest of the shift points where you expect them to be? I know you said you did already, but I would look at the TV cable adjustment, as well as the linkage & return spring. Set incorrectly it can make your jeep feel extra sluggish off the line, but usually you'll see that along with shift points that are earlier than you're used to. Are you sure it's even in 1st? Try shifting manually to see if you get the pickup you should expect up in the power band for each gear.

You might also do a stall test to see if the torque converter is causing problems. I would be leary of a lot of things if the shop didn't properly adjust the kickdown screw. Out of curiosity, how did you set the torque on that with it in the jeep? And how did you hold the screw in place while tightening the hold down nut to ensure the screw didn't rotate on you? I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's hella hard to adjust it at all in tight quarters, much less all the other stuff you have to watch.



So when you hit the gas the rpms go up, but the jeep doesn't move until you get to sufficient RPM? Also, it's not the torque converter clutch/solenoid. That will either cause you to not lockup at cruising speed (not your problem), or if it is stuck engaged it would just make your engine stall.



He didn't have to drop the pan to do the kickdown adjustment.




Also, you might consider dialing that back a bit, hoss.

The shift points are a little higher in the rpms so not really where I’d expect them to be. But after adjusting that band, it shifts on its own now, let me take a look at the TV cable and see if It needs adjusting, also someone said it could be my transfer case linkage thinking it’s in neutral? I put the jeep in 4low yesterday and it had no sluggish feeling at all it was really snappy and felt good in 4low just feels horrible in drive, it doesn’t even wanna go up the smallest incline in my driveway. This could be because it’s stuck in 2nd??,

I’m gonna look at TV cable and get back

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

Are the rest of the shift points where you expect them to be? I know you said you did already, but I would look at the TV cable adjustment, as well as the linkage & return spring. Set incorrectly it can make your jeep feel extra sluggish off the line, but usually you'll see that along with shift points that are earlier than you're used to. Are you sure it's even in 1st? Try shifting manually to see if you get the pickup you should expect up in the power band for each gear.

You might also do a stall test to see if the torque converter is causing problems. I would be leary of a lot of things if the shop didn't properly adjust the kickdown screw. Out of curiosity, how did you set the torque on that with it in the jeep? And how did you hold the screw in place while tightening the hold down nut to ensure the screw didn't rotate on you? I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's hella hard to adjust it at all in tight quarters, much less all the other stuff you have to watch.



So when you hit the gas the rpms go up, but the jeep doesn't move until you get to sufficient RPM? Also, it's not the torque converter clutch/solenoid. That will either cause you to not lockup at cruising speed (not your problem), or if it is stuck engaged it would just make your engine stall.



He didn't have to drop the pan to do the kickdown adjustment.




Also, you might consider dialing that back a bit, hoss.

Also that’s a good point about that lock nut but it’s not a tight as you think, I can fit two hands with two tools laying down on my back with the skid plate on.. I’ll have to make sure the locknut didint turn the screw. But anyways that seemed to fix my shifting just not my sluggish acceleration

 

[hardtailpan]

The shift points are a little higher in the rpms so not really where I’d expect them to be. But after adjusting that band, it shifts on its own now, let me take a look at the TV cable and see if It needs adjusting, also someone said it could be my transfer case linkage thinking it’s in neutral? I put the jeep in 4low yesterday and it had no sluggish feeling at all it was really snappy and felt good in 4low just feels horrible in drive, it doesn’t even wanna go up the smallest incline in my driveway. This could be because it’s stuck in 2nd??,

I’m gonna look at TV cable and get back

@hear has some extensive experience with these suckers. Also, you adjusted the band that's available on the outside of the trans (front band I believe, hear corrrect me if I'm wrong) and it sounds like you did it right. There is another band (rear band I think) but to adjust that, you have to drop the pan.

 

[Christian.mers]

Like @hear was saying, try a stall test. You can find your steps here in the manual.

Page 21 - 85 seems to address your issue shortly but I’d follow the testing procedures to be for sure and to determine which of the 5 issues may be the one you are experiencing

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

Are the rest of the shift points where you expect them to be? I know you said you did already, but I would look at the TV cable adjustment, as well as the linkage & return spring. Set incorrectly it can make your jeep feel extra sluggish off the line, but usually you'll see that along with shift points that are earlier than you're used to. Are you sure it's even in 1st? Try shifting manually to see if you get the pickup you should expect up in the power band for each gear.

You might also do a stall test to see if the torque converter is causing problems. I would be leary of a lot of things if the shop didn't properly adjust the kickdown screw. Out of curiosity, how did you set the torque on that with it in the jeep? And how did you hold the screw in place while tightening the hold down nut to ensure the screw didn't rotate on you? I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's hella hard to adjust it at all in tight quarters, much less all the other stuff you have to watch.



So when you hit the gas the rpms go up, but the jeep doesn't move until you get to sufficient RPM? Also, it's not the torque converter clutch/solenoid. That will either cause you to not lockup at cruising speed (not your problem), or if it is stuck engaged it would just make your engine stall.



He didn't have to drop the pan to do the kickdown adjustment.




Also, you might consider dialing that back a bit, hoss.

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

@hear has some extensive experience with these suckers. Also, you adjusted the band that's available on the outside of the trans (front band I believe, hear corrrect me if I'm wrong) and it sounds like you did it right. There is another band (rear band I think) but to adjust that, you have to drop yeah

@hear has some extensive experience with these suckers. Also, you adjusted the band that's available on the outside of the trans (front band I believe, hear corrrect me if I'm wrong) and it sounds like you did it right. There is another band (rear band I think) but to adjust that, you have to drop the pan.

yeah I’ve used this website for years and seen him help lots of jeepers thanks @hear

 

[Nicks1997TJ]

Like @hear was saying, try a stall test. You can find your steps here in the manual.

Page 21 - 85 seems to address your issue shortly but I’d follow the testing procedures to be for sure and to determine which of the 5 issues may be the one you are experiencing

View attachment 638270

@Christian.mers @hear, I’m going to look into the stall test. And I will get back

 

[Christian.mers]

(front band I believe, hear corrrect me if I'm wrong) and it sounds like you did it right. There is another band (rear band I think) but to adjust that, you have to drop the pan.

You’re correct, the front band is accessible from the exterior and it controls the Second gearshift lever position

The rear band needs to have the pan dropped to adjust it and it controls the Reverse and only the Manual D1 gearshift position