Extreme Heat Transmission Cooler

JPHikr

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Jun 27, 2020
Messages
632
Location
East of Nowhere Airzona
Here is my trans cooler set up.
When the summer days are 115 - 120 I need to keep the trans cool.
I used Two Derale frame rail cooler and the Derale 20561 cooler with fan.
Along with a remote filter that allows me to change a quart of ATF during every oil change.
I routed the line from the radiator cooler out to the dual frame rait. They are split so that each one is feed hot ATF.
This allows better cooling than just running it thru both coolers tied to gether.
The ATF is slowed down and has more time in each cooler dissipating more heat.
From the dual cooler it goes to the 20561 frame mounted Atf cooler with fan.
When the ATF exits the 20561 it is routed to the spin on filter then back to trans.
I have a 185 on off switch hooked to a relay to turn fan on and off, also have a switch to override the filter mounted swith.
When the 20561 fan is on I installed a green light that comes on to show me it is running.
When driving on the hiway the on 120 degree days it never comes on.
Offroading at during the 110 plus days ( I do not offroad in the extreme heat days) slow speed it will comes and runs briefly and shuts off.
It will cycle but not stay continuosly on.

Derale Frame Rail Coolers.jpeg


Trans cooler 2.jpg


ATF Filter.jpg
 
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"The ATF is slowed down and has more time in each cooler dissipating more heat."

And I can tell you that putting a restriction in the cooling circuit just makes the oil pre getting out of the transmission hotter. You are creating a solution to a self inflicted problem.
 
How can flowing the ATF thur two coolers cause a restriction?

It is what it is and your flawed theory, "The ATF is slowed down and has more time in each cooler dissipating more heat..." . You keeping hot oil in the trans longer hurts what you are trying to achieve.
 
Not only that, the thought that slowing the liquid flow allows it to dissipate more heat is flawed, and goes against the laws of thermodynamics that show faster flow transfers more heat. This is why “high flow” water pumps cause an engine to run cooler - they push the coolant through the radiator faster. You never see a company marketing a “low flow” water pump for a reason.
 
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The ATF is flowing at the cooler lines at same rate and my hoses are larger ID than the steel lines.
It is split into two coolers that means that the ATF is flowing thru each two pass cooler at the same rate but spending more time in each cooler rather than flowing thru a single four pass cooler thus allowing more heat to be disapated.
This is a common race car trick to get more heat out of the fluid ( Oil, Water or ATF).
As for the temp before adding the coolers, I did not check it but the coolant temp is 205 as controled by the thermostat.
Now the lower tank of the Grffin alloy radiator is going to be cooler than that.
I do know that by seeing that the 20561 fan only kicks in at slow speeds hot very hot days the ATF is staying below 185.
Now if I was to go to the snow I would block the air flow of at the two coolers to keep the ATF radiator temp.
 
How about this. Bypass them completely, watch the temps. Run each one independently and watch the temps. Run them in series and watch the temps. Run them in parallel (your current setup) and watch the temps.

Unless you’re gonna prove it out with math, you have to prove it out with data. Otherwise you actually have no idea if you’ve made it better/worse/same, and you end up fighting the internet.
 
Not only that, the thought that slowing the liquid flow allows it to dissipate more heat is flawed, and goes against the laws of thermodynamics that show faster flow transfers more heat. This is why “high flow” water pumps cause an engine to run cooler - they push the coolant through the radiator faster. You never see a company marketing a “low flow” water pump for a reason.

Do we know that a high flow water pump improves cooling?

I assume too fast or too slow is worse than just right, and the engineers on the TJ cooling system seemed to know what they were doing regarding proper dwell time.
 
bypass the radiator cooler, not necessary if you have those temps. It adds a faster warm up but the heat is not really removed if the coolant temps are in the 210 range. I did on my 999 in the YJ, lowered temps 20 degrees or more, I grabbed an external cooler from an exploder from the salvage yard for $30. I have a mechanical temp gauge in the pan so I was able to measure.
 
All I know is what I see in actual use.
No theory or speculation.
You can see what I did and decide for yourself.
Living in a super hot area ( It will be 108 today here, it got to 124 last July 5th. It was just 109 that same day in Death Valley) I have learned that many things can be done to help cooling down running temps.
One example is adding water solube oil into the cooling system to break up the surface tension of the water.
Been offroading since I was a kid .
I drove Baja to the East Cape before the road was paved.
Worked on cars with my Dad since I could hand him a tool and that was before LBJ was president.
 
I can see both sides of the arguments here but...I cannot recall a single thread in any auto forum over the decades where some dude removed his thermostat because his engine was running to hot thinking thats the ticket. The typical response is removing the thermo causes improper engine temps and to much flow from little dwell time in the rad causing reduced heat transfer rendering the idea worthless. So whats the truth on thermo dynamics and real world use?
I'll add the first Ram/ Cummins truck I had ran 2 OEM trans coolers and the radiator cooler so actually 3. One thru the radiator tank, one in front like a typical OEM HD application, and the other mounted under the drivers side of the bed on the frame. IIRC the lines were 3/8 ID if that matters. It was laid flat and had a fan on it with a sensor telling it when to run. Just sayin. Id like to see some real world shop testing, which I never have, other then theorizing what works best. Not arguing, just interested.
 
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All I know is what I see in actual use.
No theory or speculation.

No, all you see is what you currently have, and you're speculating that it is an improvement over other configurations. Some here are probably saying you're wrong, but I'm just asking you to prove you are right by showing the before after data for various configurations.

But you've already made up your mind that it is better so I guess the burden is on us to peer review your research?
 
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Case in point the Ford Ecoboost oil cooler mod. I looked it over but didn't see any data supporting it's installation other than claims of improved fuel mileage...which might have come from other mods like a tune, ceramic coating the exhaust and intake and an electric fan.

Nonetheless I pressed on. I installed the oil cooler and I installed a glowshift oil pressure and temperature sensor.

I've tracked enough data at this point to know the mod does more oil heating than cooling...I haven't removed it yet because I'm still researching whether or not that's a good thing or bad...but absolutely zero change in fuel mileage.

-Mac