Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

What did you do to your TJ today?

Took my precious granddaughter for a quick ride before church-I think she is a jeep girl already.

We have been enjoying both jeeps a good bit - I’ll try to slap some pics up soon.

Not posting a lot of mods lately because both rigs are about where I want them…but I have a few things in mind for the LJR …small stuff.

IMG_4513.jpeg
 
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Took my precious granddaughter for a quick ride before church-I think she is a jeep girl already.

We have been enjoying both jeeps a good bit - I’ll try to slap some pics up soon.

Not posting a lot of mods lately because both rigs are about where I want them…but I have a few things in mind for the LJR …small stuff.

View attachment 627335

That’s awesome, Andy. Nothing like grand kids. I’ve got so many now that they won’t all fit in the rig at the same time…🙂
 
This is what I was thinking of getting maybe not the exact tool but one like it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GBYH53C?tag=wranglerorg-20
There is no level they won't stoop to in order to copy stuff, is there? And it isn't like the original is that expensive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBO58FM?tag=wranglerorg-20

I can tell you from lots of use, only use a hand ratchet on it with a 1/4" socket that has a deep enough hex to jump over the groove and get both hexes on the drive shaft. Or not because if you don't, you will twist off the first one and then you don't have to worry about how deep the socket is. A power tool blows these up with a quickness. Blew up the first one in a few sets. Switched to hand ratchet and have done 100's without an issue. They are handy for a few at a time. Pretty slow if you have to do a bunch.
 
Made sure the new refrigerator will fit where I wanted to mount it. Amazon had these on a early Prime Deals so I couldn't pass it up. It weighs as much and has a much room as the small soft side Yeti i was using. This will have more room since I won't need ice.

I'm probably going to move the amp to the driver rear floor board just to give the fridge more air space. Also debating on to put the controls forward or backwards when I secure it. I'm debating wiring it up to a switch on my Auxbeam panel or directly to the battery. To the battery will allow it to stay running when we stop for lunch, break, or to get others through an obstacle. However, I'll have to remember to turn it off at the end of the day.

I've got to let it sit for 24-hours upright before powering it, so when I get home from work travel Wednesday, I'll make sure it works good.

View attachment 627277

View attachment 627278

View attachment 627279

Which fridge is that?
 
There is no level they won't stoop to in order to copy stuff, is there? And it isn't like the original is that expensive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBO58FM?tag=wranglerorg-20

I can tell you from lots of use, only use a hand ratchet on it with a 1/4" socket that has a deep enough hex to jump over the groove and get both hexes on the drive shaft. Or not because if you don't, you will twist off the first one and then you don't have to worry about how deep the socket is. A power tool blows these up with a quickness. Blew up the first one in a few sets. Switched to hand ratchet and have done 100's without an issue. They are handy for a few at a time. Pretty slow if you have to do a bunch.

Thanks @mrblaine I think that's the one I was looking at before. Got it saved now.
 
Got a lot done this weekend. Only to realize I got a little ahead of myself and forgot something was a miss before I put it all back together.

IMG_0969.jpeg


Man, these things were WORN OUT.

IMG_0971.jpeg


Also, this Jeep had the original shocks. At least I'm pretty sure they were original. They had the old chrysler logo still stamped on them.

Got rid of the silly spacer lift. Onto more fixes.

IMG_0963.jpeg
 
There is no level they won't stoop to in order to copy stuff, is there? And it isn't like the original is that expensive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBO58FM?tag=wranglerorg-20

I can tell you from lots of use, only use a hand ratchet on it with a 1/4" socket that has a deep enough hex to jump over the groove and get both hexes on the drive shaft. Or not because if you don't, you will twist off the first one and then you don't have to worry about how deep the socket is. A power tool blows these up with a quickness. Blew up the first one in a few sets. Switched to hand ratchet and have done 100's without an issue. They are handy for a few at a time. Pretty slow if you have to do a bunch.
Just so I understand, you're saying use a 1/4" ratchet and not in a drill?
 
There is no level they won't stoop to in order to copy stuff, is there? And it isn't like the original is that expensive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBO58FM?tag=wranglerorg-20

I can tell you from lots of use, only use a hand ratchet on it with a 1/4" socket that has a deep enough hex to jump over the groove and get both hexes on the drive shaft. Or not because if you don't, you will twist off the first one and then you don't have to worry about how deep the socket is. A power tool blows these up with a quickness. Blew up the first one in a few sets. Switched to hand ratchet and have done 100's without an issue. They are handy for a few at a time. Pretty slow if you have to do a bunch.

Any brand recommendations for good nutsert/rivnut hardware? Also, have you ever worked with studserts/rivetstuds?
 
Got the corners done and the fenders remounted. Now to take stuff back off for paint.
View attachment 627389

Look great!

Question - did you already have the flares mounted previously? If so, how did you locate where to drill for the mounting holes?

I have nutserts installed for mine and I've been thinking about how I'll locate then during the install to drill holes for them. I've thought of maybe some marking paint on the nutsert and push the armor up against it once I've already located the armor mount holes.

Or I also thought to maybe put a bolt with marking paint on the end in from inside the wheel well to go through the nutsert and mark the armor.

Still mulling this one over...
 
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Look great!

Question - did you already have the flares mounted previously? If so, how did you locate where to drill for the mounting holes?

I have nutserts installed for mine and I've been thinking about how I'll locate then during the install to drill holes for them. I've thought of maybe some marking paint on the nutsert and push the armor up against it once I've already located the armor mount holes.

Or I also thought to maybe put a bolt with marking paint on the end in from inside the wheel well to go through the nutsert and mark the armor.

Still mulling this one over...

I had through bolts before, after mounting the rockers the flares had to be moved back farther to clear the bars. I picked a new location I liked and used clamps to hold them up and mark the holes with a sharpie. Then drilled and tapped the corners to accept the 1/4-20 hardware. That's what genright recommends to do fyi.
 
I had through bolts before, after mounting the rockers the flares had to be moved back farther to clear the bars. I picked a new location I liked and used clamps to hold them up and mark the holes with a sharpie. Then drilled and tapped the corners to accept the 1/4-20 hardware. That's what genright recommends to do fyi.

Thanks! Sounds like a good solution to my problem - remove nutserts and mount to the armor. Appreciate the tips - This is definitely one of those 'only get 1 try to get it right' type jobs to avoid swiss cheesiing them so I want to be fully prepared walking in.
 
Replaced the



Replaced the OEM fender flares with wider ones. OMG, what a difficult project...it took about 6 hours. Most of the oem fasteners were rusted to the point a 5/16" socket or wrench wouldn't grip. I ended up scrapping all the fasteners and going with 6mm stainless socket cap screws and nuts.
















oem
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts