Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

How would you fix stripped taillight mount hole? Rivnut or just a bigger bolt?

Mogul345

TJ Enthusiast
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Los Angeles
Just got my TJ back from the body shop, and as I was replacing the little triangle shaped gaskets behind the taillights, I learned that one of the bolts in the triangle, the hole is somehow totally stripped out (the bolt just pushes straight through the hole.

I've got a rivnut kit from fixing my footman loop on one of my doors, and plenty of rivnuts, so I'm thinking that might be the most bulletproof solution, but maybe I'm just overthinking it. Maybe I can just go to the hardware store and size the bolt up a size and cut some new threads?

Wondering what y'all would do.
 
Mine was massacred by the PO so a set of cheap chinesium LED tails could be installed.

I cleaned up the mess and just thru-bolt them.

I don't recall a gasket back there. I have the BMB LEDs and never heard mention to gaskets..
 
I'd install a rivnut if I was selling it to @macleanflood so he can have all the joy when it fails. Otherwise, if I am keeping it I would fix it properly.

Again, long time since I’ve seen a stock anything, but aren’t the attachment bolts for the tail lights simply a self-tapping screw into the sheet metal? To me, a rivnut would be a better solution. Three rivnuts, even better.
 
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Again, long time since I’ve seen a stock anything, but aren’t the attachment bolts for the tail lights simply a self-tapping screw into the sheet metal? To me, a rivnut would be a better solution. Three rivnuts, even better.

Exactly why I did the same thing to my fill neck. Makes putting it on and off a 30 second exercise.

-Mac
 
Mine was massacred by the PO so a set of cheap chinesium LED tails could be installed.

I cleaned up the mess and just thru-bolt them.

I don't recall a gasket back there. I have the BMB LEDs and never heard mention to gaskets..
Here's the gasket I'm referring to. Before the body shop scraped it off during prep for a proper repaint (the PO had it resprayed white, terribly).

If you thru bolt them, can I get at the back of the bolt through the interior or do I have to go up through the wheel wells?

IMG-20250506-WA0007.jpg
 
Again, long time since I’ve seen a stock anything, but aren’t the attachment bolts for the tail lights simply a self-tapping screw into the sheet metal? To me, a rivnut would be a better solution. Three rivnuts, even better.

Yeah, stock seems to be M6 self taps. Seems like a really dumb design.

Seems like most everyone is on team rivnut, I think that will be the plan. I should have enough for all all of the holes.
 
Again, long time since I’ve seen a stock anything, but aren’t the attachment bolts for the tail lights simply a self-tapping screw into the sheet metal? To me, a rivnut would be a better solution. Three rivnuts, even better.
No, they are not self tappers which most confuse with self drilling. They are Type F thread cutting screws that cut threads into an extruded tube of the sheet metal. Self drilling screws in sheet metal leave you with less than one thread holding depending on the thickness of the sheet metal and the thread pitch. Very much like the sheet metal u-nuts we encounter for low stress applications.
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What works much better is when they extrude the sheet metal to form a tube so you have more threads grabbing.

1749226445247.png

Self drilling screw-
1749226504104.png


Type F thread cutting screw-

1749226649085.png
 
A nutsert is exactly the proper fix for putting threads in sheetmetal. Whether or not you understand how to do them has nothing to do with your disdain.

I dislike them because I have ran into them failing more times than I can count. It always seems like the fail when used in blind applications making the job of removal and repair a giant task. To me there is no reason to use them because the bolt will rust to the nut and the nut will spin. It is not a question of IF, it will fail at what seems like the most inopportune time.

If you took a poll of how many people had the nut spin on the removal of their fuel tank, pretty sure you will get a lopsided score card.

You may like them and use them for your customers and that is fine. You can feel free to recommend them and I will continue to advise otherwise.
 
A rivnut is the simplest solution , and practical

Bolt thru is a terrible option, as I learned

I will expound on this
It will help you understand why its a poor choice.

Drivers side
The bolt thru must be reached on drivers side inside fender, under vehicle, pull flap away and reach up OR go thru fuel cap area after you remove it. (More work)

Passenger side (prepare for fukkery)
I dont know what models have this shit design, but the 03 I bought my 9 year old has a smog unit inside the fenderwell directly behind the tail light with obstructing plates that need to be removed. With some serious body torqueing you can reach 2 of the 3 , but the 3rd requires a rental circus freak that can bend and contort beyond the usual

Is this all possible with aggravated determination because youre already committed?? Yes….but its a bad idea

I just wanted to add a backup camera this spring, so I had to tap into the reverse lights at the rear. Guess what side I pulled?? Not the passenger or Id have thrown something and broke it
 
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I dislike them because I have ran into them failing more times than I can count. It always seems like the fail when used in blind applications making the job of removal and repair a giant task.
I suppose you have a better way of putting threads in sheet metal for blind applications? If so, please share with the class so we can all benefit from your superior methodology.
To me there is no reason to use them because the bolt will rust to the nut and the nut will spin.
And like every other bit of mechanical understanding on the face of this planet, be smarter than what you're working on. Use an anti-galling agent or sealer to prevent rust in the threaded connection.
It is not a question of IF, it will fail at what seems like the most inopportune time.
Only if you want it to be so.
If you took a poll of how many people had the nut spin on the removal of their fuel tank, pretty sure you will get a lopsided score card.
My apologies, you have managed to confuse me, not hard most days, but still. The gas tank skid is held in place to retain the gas tank by 7 of the same fasteners, none of which are nutserts or rivnuts. The 4 across the back are the same as the 3 across the front, low shoulder grade 5 carriage bolts with push retainers and captive washer hex nuts.

What are problematic are the frame nutserts. We all know it, we deal with it and yet no one does any prevention. How hard would it be to remove them while they are still viable, slather on some good anti-seize and pop them back in so they stay viable? Nope, we'd rather wait until the barrel rusts to the threads so we twist off the barrel from the flange or break the bolt. No different than folks dealing with bumper bolts twisted off in the weld nuts in the frame. Or stuck unit bearings in knuckles, or, or, or any of the myriad of problems that would be much easier to deal with if we just planned ahead a smidgen. How many bolts would come out of hinges and windshield frames if the owners would pull them when they still can, put a little anti-seize on the countersink and then reinstall.
You may like them and use them for your customers and that is fine.
Has nothing to do with liking them. I understand them, know how to set, use, and install them and fully understand that there is not a better option, or that is until you bless us with what you consider to be the superior method.
You can feel free to recommend them and I will continue to advise otherwise.
It isn't an issue of recommending. It is one of understanding and fully knowing there isn't another better option. (same caveat as above)
 
The gasket typically sticks to the back of the tail light housing.

Interesting. Mine were very firmly attached to the body, not the tails when I removed the originals. So I guess I screwed up sticking the new ones back to the tub?
 
Interesting. Mine were very firmly attached to the body, not the tails when I removed the originals. So I guess I screwed up sticking the new ones back to the tub?
Think about how they would do the installs at the factory. It would be very odd for them to hand a separate gasket to the worker, have him stick that over the holes on the tub and then attach the tail light. Far easier and faster would be to have the gasket already applied and stuck to the housing so it winds up in the correct spot as fast and accurately as possible. Not saying I know they did it that way, but all the gaskets I've seen stuck to tail lights sure point that way.
 
Think about how they would do the installs at the factory. It would be very odd for them to hand a separate gasket to the worker, have him stick that over the holes on the tub and then attach the tail light. Far easier and faster would be to have the gasket already applied and stuck to the housing so it winds up in the correct spot as fast and accurately as possible. Not saying I know they did it that way, but all the gaskets I've seen stuck to tail lights sure point that way.

You're right, it makes sense. Looking closer at the photo, the crinkle in the surface is likely the failed glue side of the stick on gasket.

Well I guess when I peel the new ones off to put in the rivnuts, I will stick the next set to the tails (my cheap Chinesium ones lol)
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator