Transmission swap questions

[Rickyd]

Got the transmission out. Side by side they look very similar. Aside from the hole for the sensor I notice one connection is different but could pull from the orginal trans. And there is an extra mounting hole at the top. Hear can you tell me more about "drain back issue"?

There is a check valve in one of your trans cooler lines that lets the torque converter empty if it sticks open. Chrysler not letting the pump move fluid while in park makes the issue worse by not pumping up when you start it. That can be changed while it is apart for rebuild

 

[Sargas3]

There is a check valve in one of your trans cooler lines that lets the torque converter empty if it sticks open. Chrysler not letting the pump move fluid while in park makes the issue worse by not pumping up when you start it. That can be changed while it is apart for rebuild

Thank you for the information. Rebuild definitely looks like a better option if this can fix my problem. Do you think this has something to do with the leaking too?

 

[Sargas3]

Sorry for the response taking so long had to get the old trans out then had family over and couldn't get back to work. So I am wondering what the trans is if not an A999 (32rh) from a 95 yj like I was told. I got a few side by side pic and wanted to see if anyone could figure it out. Left is the trans from my 99 tj. Right is supposed to be a 95 yj. You will notice 2 things right away. The lack of hole for the crank sensor. And the extra hole at the tope of the bell housing. The side has different plugs for sensors as well. Let me know what you think. Thanks!

 

[hear]

Thank you for the information. Rebuild definitely looks like a better option if this can fix my problem. Do you think this has something to do with the leaking too?

If you're losing fluid but you don't see a drip somewhere, then I'm out of ideas.


As far as those transmissions, the shifter linkage is different, but possibly interchangeable, but it might also require changing the shifter & TV cables to make it all mate up.

I don't see the plug for the torque converter lockup connector either. If you take the torque converter off, the output shaft will either have a machined nub on the end or it won't. It needs that nub for the torque converter lockup function, and then obviously the plug as well. And you'll discover that the valve bodies are different too. Honestly, I would not bother trying to make that '95 work. It might bolt up but I think you'll experience death by a thousand cuts. YMMV though.


But seriously, if you have the transmission out of the jeep, the effort to rebuild it from here is surprisingly low. Given your issues, you probably have to do the "full" job, which includes replacing the brass bushings and piston seals. You might not need a press to do the bushings, but I have one so that's what I use. The piston seals also require a specialty tool, I do always forget to mention that. I had to use mine this week so it's top of mind. I have a video series that details most of this, but it doesn't show the bushings, nor does it show the piston seal that requires the tool.

Keep us informed!

 

[hear]

The NSS connector on the '95 looks very similar to my 97's. Your '99 looks like the '02 i just did. Same with the kickdown band adjuster screw. Interesting how many things they carried over from the YJ for the intial TJ run.

 

[Sargas3]

If you're losing fluid but you don't see a drip somewhere, then I'm out of ideas.


As far as those transmissions, the shifter linkage is different, but possibly interchangeable, but it might also require changing the shifter & TV cables to make it all mate up.

I don't see the plug for the torque converter lockup connector either. If you take the torque converter off, the output shaft will either have a machined nub on the end or it won't. It needs that nub for the torque converter lockup function, and then obviously the plug as well. And you'll discover that the valve bodies are different too. Honestly, I would not bother trying to make that '95 work. It might bolt up but I think you'll experience death by a thousand cuts. YMMV though.


But seriously, if you have the transmission out of the jeep, the effort to rebuild it from here is surprisingly low. Given your issues, you probably have to do the "full" job, which includes replacing the brass bushings and piston seals. You might not need a press to do the bushings, but I have one so that's what I use. The piston seals also require a specialty tool, I do always forget to mention that. I had to use mine this week so it's top of mind. I have a video series that details most of this, but it doesn't show the bushings, nor does it show the piston seal that requires the tool.

Keep us informed!

I agree I am at the point were I want to try the rebuild more then mess with the other one. Can you recommend a kit to buy and what tool? And point me to your videos? Now that I have a better idea of what's wrong I'm more more confident in fixing it. Thank you very much for all your help!!!!

 

[hear]

If you google just about anything regarding the 32RH, my content is pretty much all of the first 2 pages. Which is annoying, because if I need to know something, it's hard to find something I didn't already write myself. But here's the playlist. Youtube doesn't always like to keep them in order, but I've tried to number them in the title in the proper sequence. Watch them, and I bet you'll have the confidence to tackle this. Ask all the questions. I may even know some of the answers.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLf0MJSwJULdO5kVrDCkdXsVvnsAwHvclB&feature=shared


This is the kit I bought last week. It came with the frictions, steels, bushings, and the kickdown band. Not all kits come with that stuff. The main stuff that kit doesn't have is the low/reverse band and the overrun clutch, but needing to replace those is rare, and you can get them separate.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3706239254...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1


The piston compressor tool isn't great, but I've found that using it with my press makes it much easier to work with. It has to be just the right shape to be able to compress the spring but also clear the lock ring. This tool is close enough, but it's a pain to use w/o using a proper press instead of the screw to tighten it down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ43TS3?tag=wranglerorg-20


Oh, and you need snap ring pliers (cheap ones are fine) and also lock ring pliers. You need ends like this in order to open up the front drum and also remove the low/reverse drum. IDK if this link is a good pair, it's just an example. You'll be tempted to do this with your snap ring pliers. Should I say I told you so now, or wait till later?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RZP76LT?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Sargas3]

If you google just about anything regarding the 32RH, my content is pretty much all of the first 2 pages. Which is annoying, because if I need to know something, it's hard to find something I didn't already write myself. But here's the playlist. Youtube doesn't always like to keep them in order, but I've tried to number them in the title in the proper sequence. Watch them, and I bet you'll have the confidence to tackle this. Ask all the questions. I may even know some of the answers.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLf0MJSwJULdO5kVrDCkdXsVvnsAwHvclB&feature=shared


This is the kit I bought last week. It came with the frictions, steels, bushings, and the kickdown band. Not all kits come with that stuff. The main stuff that kit doesn't have is the low/reverse band and the overrun clutch, but needing to replace those is rare, and you can get them separate.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3706239254...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1


The piston compressor tool isn't great, but I've found that using it with my press makes it much easier to work with. It has to be just the right shape to be able to compress the spring but also clear the lock ring. This tool is close enough, but it's a pain to use w/o using a proper press instead of the screw to tighten it down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ43TS3?tag=wranglerorg-20


Oh, and you need snap ring pliers (cheap ones are fine) and also lock ring pliers. You need ends like this in order to open up the front drum and also remove the low/reverse drum. IDK if this link is a good pair, it's just an example. You'll be tempted to do this with your snap ring pliers. Should I say I told you so now, or wait till later?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RZP76LT?tag=wranglerorg-20

View attachment 604964

Thank you so much! I've seen a lot of kits out there but they all seem to have a different collection of parts. And did not think to check out the dodge a904 kits. I'll pick one up and get to work. Might have the pliers but definitely will need to buy the other tool. Thanks again!