Clutch Operation Question

[Jbaker530]

I have a question regarding normal TJ clutch feel. This is my first jeep and I'm not super familiar with what normal clutch feel is like on them so I'm wondering if i have something going on with mine. First, the clutch seems to be either fully engaged or fully disengaged, its like an on/off switch and there's no slipping it or slowly letting it out. In first gear I have to let it out with no throttle till it grabs otherwise it will jump out of gear with a loud bang. From a stop light I have to pretty much just dump the clutch pedal then once its rolling add throttle and go. My jeep has a lot of work done to it by a pervious owner so I'm wondering it this is intentional or something is going out. Thanks for any help

 

[sab]

I have a question regarding normal TJ clutch feel. This is my first jeep and I'm not super familiar with what normal clutch feel is like on them so I'm wondering if i have something going on with mine. First, the clutch seems to be either fully engaged or fully disengaged, its like an on/off switch and there's no slipping it or slowly letting it out. In first gear I have to let it out with no throttle till it grabs otherwise it will jump out of gear with a loud bang. From a stop light I have to pretty much just dump the clutch pedal then once its rolling add throttle and go. My jeep has a lot of work done to it by a pervious owner so I'm wondering it this is intentional or something is going out. Thanks for any help

If you fill out your profile, it will be easier for other members to give you a specific response. There were at least four engines and even more transmissions in production TJs over the years, and knowing which one you have allows members to relate their experiences with that transmission and engine combination. Even if you don't know which transmission you have, an assumption can be made using your model year...

That said, a new clutch would likely solve your issues. The problem is likely something wrong with the pressure plate, the shift fork assembly, and/or the friction plate. All of those get inspected/replaced when a new clutch is installed.

 

[Jbaker530]

Solid point, I have a 2000 TJ Sahara with the 4.0 and a 5spd, not sure which one.

 

[CharlesHS]

Year, Model, Engine, Transmission
4 cyl (2.5 or 2.4L), 6 cylinder (4.0L), automatic (30rH 97-01, 32 RH 97-02, 42 RLE 03-06), manual (AX-5 4 cyl, AX15 97&98 4.0L, NVG 3550 99-04, NSG370 05&06)

 

[lBasket]

Year, Model, Engine, Transmission
4 cyl (2.5 or 2.4L), 6 cylinder (4.0L), automatic (32 RH 97-02, 42 RLE 03-06), manual (AX-5 4 cyl, AX15 97&98 4.0L, NVG 3550 99-04, NSG370 05&06)

Where is 30rh

 

[sab]

not sure which one.

A 2000 with a 4.0L would have, I think, come from the factory with an NV-3550 transmission, but hopefully more knowledgeable forum members can confirm that for you.

 

[TurboTJ]

A new clutch will probably solve your problem. If you replace it do not machine the flywheel. It has a convex surface and should not be milled flat. Replace it if neccesary. It is a good time to replace the rear main seal also. If the clutch was previously replaced and the flywheel machined this might explain at least part of your problem.

 

[KennethS]

Replace it if neccesary.

I'm curious to know what are the signs it needs to be replaced. Mine has around 150k on the original clutch, so at some point I'll need to replace it and would like to know what to look for.

 

[macleanflood]

I'm curious to know what are the signs it needs to be replaced. Mine has around 150k on the original clutch, so at some point I'll need to replace it and would like to know what to look for.

I'd say 27 years and 150k is a good indicator.

You're at the point where you can choose the time and place...order the parts you want...or snap and it'll be right now.

Typically it's a really long press of the clutch pedal for disengagement. Slipping. Burning clutch smell. Noises from the throw out bearing, pilot bushing/bearing or the rivets as you grind them off the face of the disk.

-Mac

 

[CharlesHS]

A 2000 with a 4.0L would have, I think, come from the factory with an NV-3550 transmission, but hopefully more knowledgeable forum members can confirm that for you.

YES....
The NVG3550 started being installed with the 4.0L in mid 1999.

 

[CharlesHS]

I'm curious to know what are the signs it needs to be replaced. Mine has around 150k on the original clutch, so at some point I'll need to replace it and would like to know what to look for.

My 2001 had 180K on the original clutch and throwout bearing.
The clutch disc would have survived another 20K if it weren't for the loudly SQUEAKING throwout bearing.

 

[TurboTJ]

I'm curious to know what are the signs it needs to be replaced. Mine has around 150k on the original clutch, so at some point I'll need to replace it and would like to know what to look for.

I am not really sure. Warpage? Hot spots? Scoring? Generally speaking they don’t need to be replaced, or so I am told.

 

[CharlesHS]

I'm curious to know what are the signs it needs to be replaced. Mine has around 150k on the original clutch, so at some point I'll need to replace it and would like to know what to look for.

When I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot on my '01 TJ; the flywheel was also replaced.
The clutch engagement has been what you would expect.
When I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot on my '98 XJ; I only inspected for cracks, hot spots and gouging, but did not replace the flywheel. I only scuffed up the surface removing the glazing.
In retrospect; that was a mistake and I should have also replaced the flywheel.
When the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate was cool to warm in temperature; the clutch engaged properly, but when these parts were hot....
I would get chatter when engaging which caused me later to also replace the flywheel.

 

[KennethS]

I'd say 27 years and 150k is a good indicator.

You're at the point where you can choose the time and place...order the parts you want...or snap and it'll be right now.

Typically it's a really long press of the clutch pedal for disengagement. Slipping. Burning clutch smell. Noises from the throw out bearing, pilot bushing/bearing or the rivets as you grind them off the face of the disk.

-Mac

I didn’t mean full clutch system replacement, just flywheel replacement during a clutch job. My clutch still works well enough for now. When I do the clutch test - high gear, hold brake, rev engine, dump clutch, the engine dies immediately, so no (or not much) slippage.

 

[KennethS]

I am not really sure. Warpage? Hot spots? Scoring? Generally speaking they don’t need to be replaced, or so I am told.

That’s what I was wondering - how to tell if the flywheel needs to be replaced.

 

[KennethS]

My 2001 had 180K on the original clutch and throwout bearing.
The clutch disc would have survived another 20K if it weren't for the loudly SQUEAKING throwout bearing.

I met a guy at a gas station who said he had nearly 300k on the original clutch and engine in his ‘98 so I have high hopes for mine.

 

[macleanflood]

Factory Service Manual for the 97... resources section...page 87-88 says to replace flywheel if scoring is deeper than .003 in, scored, heat checked, cracked or obviously worn. Runout on the edge should not exceed .003 in. Same with the starter ring gear...worn, chipped teeth = replace it.

-Mac

 

[Jbaker530]

So essentially there’s no HD clutch or anything for these jeeps and it’s time to look at replacement is what I'm getting. The on/off feeling and popping out of first isn’t normal operation. She’s got just over 200k mi on her and I have no idea if its ever been replaced. Thanks for the help.

 

[Jbaker530]

Bringing this one back, the jeep is in the shop and the mechanic sent this over. Any idea what kind of clutch it is? there's no markings or tags on it. Plan is to replace the clutch, flywheel and master/slave cylinders. hopefully that solves any current and possible future issue's.