That was a VERY creative video - I liked how you used the sound at 1X speed during the 10X (??) speed video.
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
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That was a VERY creative video - I liked how you used the sound at 1X speed during the 10X (??) speed video.
I figured,But throughout those days I spent a good 20 minutes on the crossmembers for 3 days in a row just hitting the stuff with a heat gun and same results on the paint's hardness,I haven't touched the exhaust hanger,frame brackets etc. at all and it scratches just as easy so those are my "control" pieces
I've never Used POR15,heard how good it is as to why I tried it, but we'll see when some hotter weather comes around. Hopefully it cures out alright
I will say this,It comes out great from the can&lays down quite nicely
Salt? In DFW? For aluminum?Now all I gotta do is paint the savvy skid plate a natural aluminum color for extra "corrosion resistance" my Lj is a daily and I'd rather again have that peace in mind for when the icy weather arrives I won't need to worry much for when the salt is laid down on the roads
I'll be painting my skid plates, but only for aesthetics. We don't have to worry about salt corrosion down here, my friend. That's coming from a feller who grew up in Wisconsin and has experienced real salt corrosion. 
In fact, the 2001 Ford Expedition that I own spent about 5 years of its life in the north. When I replaced the engine and transmission a couple years ago (posts were made on this forum), the front body mounts and mounting bolts were completely rotted out. Just dust left.Hot tip - when you paint aluminum, you need to sand aggressively, degrease, and then immediately prime with self-etching primer, to avoid peeling. The oxide layer on aluminum forms within hours, and paint has a hard time adhering to it. See Post #411 of my build thread for how I sanded my modified Flux Off-road slider backers prior to paint (note: I don't mention it in the post, but under the Light Khaki Metallic is self-etching primer.)
1) How did you prep the parts? For steel, I do some light sanding, followed by degreasing and drying completely, to ensure successful adhesion.Edit- I will say these parts have cured for a good 6 days even with this cool mid 40s weather and the day of painting it was a warm ish 75 degrees and the paint is rather soft.... I can scratch it with my fingernails and the dirt/dust that was on it also scratched it when I wiped it off with my hands so I'm not all too impressed but oh well.....the stuff is coated now I guesslooks pretty nonetheless
2) Did you follow the can's directions? The can says it's a top coat, which means it's supposed to go over something else. It says no primer needed, but it also says to apply it over POR 15 Rust Preventative Coating. If you didn't do that, that may be why it didn't adhere:
Ok, to the point I cant get this crush sleeve brearing preload in spec. My cheap impact not enough, and don't have a helper with a breaker bar/pipe wrench and Sitting on Jack stands…. not enough room. Any suggestions? Can’t quite afford to a better gun right now.
if you have a floor jack use a breaker bar and jack it up to get it tight enough .
That’s good idear, I will give that a try, THANKS
For what it's worth , I lifted both rear wheels a foot off the ground on a 77 K-10 tightening a crush sleeve . It finally started to crush when I was pissed at it and started jumping up and down on the rear bumper. It was easy once it moved 3/16", and the rebuild was successful !
Hang in there Man !!!
I figured,But throughout those days I spent a good 20 minutes on the crossmembers for 3 days in a row just hitting the stuff with a heat gun and same results on the paint's hardness,I haven't touched the exhaust hanger,frame brackets etc. at all and it scratches just as easy so those are my "control" pieces
I've never Used POR15,heard how good it is as to why I tried it, but we'll see when some hotter weather comes around. Hopefully it cures out alright
I will say this,It comes out great from the can&lays down quite nicely
Short wave IR paint drying lamp speeds up drying time significantly. IR drys from the inside out.
I had one that I was unable to crush. The recommendation was to pre crush it in a press. That still didn’t work so I bought a new crush sleeve and had zero issues with it.
Got myself some early Christmas presents! New sliders from Flux Off Road (@Fluxor). Mock them up in next day or two. Debating paint or powder coat
A thank you in advance for that tip for painting aluminumSalt? In DFW? For aluminum?
Hot tip - when you paint aluminum, you need to sand aggressively, degrease, and then immediately prime with self-etching primer, to avoid peeling. The oxide layer on aluminum forms within hours, and paint has a hard time adhering to it. See Post #411 of my build thread for how I sanded my modified Flux Off-road slider backers prior to paint (note: I don't mention it in the post, but under the Light Khaki Metallic is self-etching primer.)
1) How did you prep the parts? For steel, I do some light sanding, followed by degreasing and drying completely, to ensure successful adhesion.
2) Did you follow the can's directions? The can says it's a top coat, which means it's supposed to go over something else. It says no primer needed, but it also says to apply it over POR 15 Rust Preventative Coating. If you didn't do that, that may be why it didn't adhere:
View attachment 580740
!Yeah im born&raised in Texas so im not familar with rust lol
and i'd rather not have it cause i don't like it if can avoid it, The reason im somewhat concerned about it is cause the past 2 years the spots on my axle from rubbing on rocks etc. never really rusted but as soon as the icy weather came and the stuff used on the road quickly found my axle and it got pretty rusty ! Not horrible by any means but if i can avoid rust that'd be great 
.As far as prep goes I used a bit of everything, a DA sander,my diegrinder with a red scuff pad and a red scotch brite pad to where my power tools couldn't get too! And to finish off i used summits wax&grease remover till my rag came out clean no dark spots
and i followed the directions and you can use it on bare metal ! Says it on the can, I wanted to use the other POR paint but i didn't bother since i don't wanna brush it on and i don't have a spray gun setup so i used their "Top coat" paint And one of the guys from summit and other guys (customers like me) said i'd be perfectly fine and that they've used it on clean prepped metal! So that made my mind up even further
Only reason i used this stuff is cause A. Ive never used it so i wanted to try it so i figured it use it on this little project
B. I was lazy and didnt want to use self etch primer...then scuff it all again and paint like i always have
C. again i just wanted to try something new
.As far as adhesion goes, IT adhered pretty dang good i have to scratch it pretty hard to actually scrape the paint off with a piece of metal and the paint is still on there ! Im just saying that it scratches easy as in the micro scratches you'd get from using a dirty microfiber with leaves on it and dragging across your cars paint for example
I know this isn't a 2k paint but man.... it scratches kinda easy ! I don't notice that much when using Rustoleum or Duplicolor or any other clearcoat you can get at Oreily's&Homedepot !
I had a vision of that and could that happen, got my answer. The impact I got is advertised at 900 lbs? I am real close I am reading about 3 inch now.
Try jack method tomorrow.
Got the 2nd wheel cylinder in yesterday, got everything adjusted and put back together today:
After determining the size wrench I need for bleeding the brakes, I decided I wanted a real brake bleed wrench - $8.55 OTD O'Reilly's.
After determining the size wrench I need for bleeding the brakes, I decided I wanted a real brake bleed wrench - $8.55 OTD O'Reilly's.
Mounted the new 8-gang AuxBeam controller on my new switch panel. I just need to get a bit longer screws in the morning for final mounting. When I get the Jeep back, I'll drill the 2 holes for the USB charging ports on either side.
I can't decide if I want to stick with the 8-gang or send it back and get the 12-gang controller. The "Front" lights are going to have the bumper and A-piller lights on 1 switch with the 8-gang. I've been debating on getting a power inverter. Separating the front lights and adding the inverter would leave me with 2 open switches on the 12-gang controller.
I can't decide if I want to stick with the 8-gang or send it back and get the 12-gang controller. The "Front" lights are going to have the bumper and A-piller lights on 1 switch with the 8-gang. I've been debating on getting a power inverter. Separating the front lights and adding the inverter would leave me with 2 open switches on the 12-gang controller.
Built a welding table as I needed it for oddball projects plus plan to mount the hardtop to it to get it off the ground to do some fiberglass work to it.
My story includes using a 3/4" breaker bar and a piece of pipe for a total length of 5 feet with the floor jack lifting the end of it. I was so pissed off it wasn't working , that I started jumping up and down on the rear bumper before it started moving. I use a Real Ridgid 36" pipe wrench and 6 foot cheater holding the yoke. I had lifted the rear tires about a foot off the floor with the jack leverage.
I really hope yours goes better !
Clean and Grease the front axle control arm and trackbar Johnny Joints.
Thank you to the individual who designed the Currie Johnny Joint Service Tool.
Thank you to the individual who designed the Currie Johnny Joint Service Tool.
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