Options for more clearance

[UKTJ]

I have fitted a 1" body lift, 1" motor mount lift and roughly 2.5" suspension lift. I have 33" tyres. I am lucky to have no vibrations so have neither dropped the transfer case skid, nor, fitted an SYE / DC drive shaft. I am mulling over what I would need to do to my TJ in the future to get more clearance and as far as I can see I have three options. What I am hoping is that others can validate or correct my lists of what is needed for each option.

Option 1: More suspension lift allowing for 35" tyres
As I understand it, to do this properly I would need to do the following:
fit taller springs, replace shocks, fit an SYE and DC rear driveshaft, adjustable rear control arms to rotate axle, shock extension brackets to avoid rubbing, rear track bar relocation bracket to avoid rubbing.

Option 2: Tummy tuck to increase ground clearance in centre
As I understand it, to do this properly I would need to do the following:
Lower profile skid (ideally using separate cross member), fit an SYE and DC rear driveshaft, adjustable rear control arms to rotate axle, shock extension brackets to avoid rubbing, rear track bar relocation bracket to avoid rubbing, amendments to the exhaust.

Option 3: High line fenders allowing for 35" tyres
As I understand it, to do this properly I would need to do the following:
High line fenders, cut hood, replace stock air filter box, relocation of other items attached to inner fender, cut / reprofile rear fenders.

I know there are pros and cons of each, I know the general view on which route is better. But at the moment I'm really looking for a completeness check.

 

[gatertamer]

You don’t have to cut the hood for hi-lines you cut out your fenders and probably a little of your battery plate…don’t go any higher than an 1 1/4 body lift too many headaches….definitely go with 4inch suspension lift you’ll need the sye and d/c driveshaft and at the least adjustable upper control arms…you’ll want EVERYTHING to be adjustable….you might need to rotate your front axle as well….and don’t use a relocation bracket. It interferes with other suspension parts

 

[TheBoogieman]

Option 2.

 

[UKTJ]

Option 2.

OK, my is the listed needed for it complete?
Should have mentioned I already have a cable shift for 4wd selection.

 

[jjvw]

You don’t have to cut the hood for hi-lines you cut out your fenders and probably a little of your battery plate…

Whatever that is, it isn't a highline.

Highline fenders absolutely require cutting the hood.

 

[jjvw]

No it doesn’t I just installed them a few weeks ago

You installed a highline fender that does not raise the height of the fender at the hood line? Let's see it.

 

[UKTJ]

No it doesn’t I just installed them a few weeks ago

View attachment 451582

There's a difference between flat fenders and high lines.
But would be helpful if we could back to my initial question.

 

[Superjay5]

No it doesn’t I just installed them a few weeks ago

View attachment 451582

Those are are not high lines….

 

[Mike_H]

No it doesn’t I just installed them a few weeks ago

View attachment 451582

Those are flat fenders, not a high line.

 

[jjvw]

There's a difference between flat fenders and high lines.
But would be helpful if we could back to my initial question.

The three options are sort of addressing three different issues, depending on how and where you are wanting our needing to increase clearance.

Options 1 and 2 have the most overlap, where if you do one, you are close to doing the other.

 

[Mike_H]

There's a difference between flat fenders and high lines.
But would be helpful if we could back to my initial question.

What is the goal? Your lists sound about right. You’re asking about more clearance, are you dragging diffs, center skid, fuel tank skid? Body mount brackets?

 

[Superjay5]

There's a difference between flat fenders and high lines.
But would be helpful if we could back to my initial question.

I personally am doing all 3 of your options, they all sort of go together.

I ran 35’s for many years with a 1.25” body lift and 3” suspension in the front and 2” in the rear. I would rub, then I highlined the front and solved that in the front. The rear is not so easy to solve, unless you cut some serious metal out, I did hammer some of the front of the rear wheel well and that helped some.

Now I’m going all in with a savvy midarm, outboarding, tummy tuck…. Etc.

So, where I am going with all this is you need to figure out your end goal. I hate doing things twice, why I kept it cheap and simple for a long time until I was ready.

Tummy tuck or more lift you will need new arms, so I would focus on that first.

 

[TheBoogieman]

You don’t have to cut the hood for hi-lines

 

[gatertamer]

Those are flat fenders, not a high line.

Can you show me a pic of hi-lines

 

[TheBoogieman]

Can you show me a pic of hi-lines

Look at my pic up above of @NashvilleTJ's Jeep.

 

[Apparition]

View attachment 451584

Correct, I sold my hood and bought a new one. No cutting necessary.

 

[Superjay5]

To add, say you do the tummy tuck, you will need to do a SYE, and new driveshaft. But down the road you want more lift, that could cause you to need another new driveshaft or two.

Arms I would say are your best focus, as those will work with all of the above and you can build off that…

Then do tummy tuck and lift all in one shot, it’s financially more abusive, but at least your are not redoing anything.

 

[jjvw]

Can you show me a pic of hi-lines

I already did

 

[UKTJ]

What is the goal? Your lists sound about right. You’re asking about more clearance, are you dragging diffs, center skid, fuel tank skid? Body mount brackets?

Thanks for answering the question, good to know the lists are broadly right.

The main issue I tend to have is the centre skid, hence why I think all threw options have some merit in improving things. Clearly moving to 35" tyres (by whatever means) also gives more clearance at the diff, but I guess the trade off there is that the additional clearance at the trans skid from a tummy tuck can be significantly more than one inch. I guess the potential benefit of the high line route is that it is more likely to give scope for tyres bigger than 35", axles permitting of course.

 

[Mike_H]

Thanks for answering the question, good to know the lists are broadly right.

The main issue I tend to have is the centre skid, hence why I think all threw options have some merit in improving things. Clearly moving to 35" tyres (by whatever means) also gives more clearance at the diff, but I guess the trade off there is that the additional clearance at the trans skid from a tummy tuck can be significantly more than one inch. I guess the potential benefit of the high line route is that it is more likely to give scope for tyres bigger than 35", axles permitting of course.

If you’re dragging the center skid, get your tummy tuck in. That’s the biggest single gain you can do, in my opinion. FWIW I ran a tummy tuck and 33’s for a while before stepping up to 35’s.

The problem with a low lift and 35’s is that it’s very difficult to find shocks that really work well at that lift height. I tried really hard, (lots of thinking, but no actually cutting of metal). Then I talked with Blaine about what I wanted to do. With that conversation, I decided that another couple inches of lift to accommodate the 35’s was the best way to proceed. High lines just aren’t needed for 35’s.