Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

What did you do to your TJ today?

Finally got around to taking the back windows out. Have to keep the uppers on until I'm ready to drive. Darn cats get in it if I don't. Oh, and gave it a bath too. :D
I had that same problem but coated the inside with a spray like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RGX5S8/?tag=wranglerorg-20 and it worked great! It did collect a lot of dogwood tree fuzz though...

BTW, I was born and raised in Sacatomatoes, homie.
 
So the mid arm bracket goes right where the rearmost transfercase nutsert goes. I was going to trim both, and started to, but... I didn't like the idea of cutting the control arm bracket. So I ground the nutserts smooth and burned the brackets on. I'll trim the skid forward to clear and add another nutsert. I think the skid is strong enough to take that modifcation ok.

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I learned that these are not the same. Ignore the gauge, I wasn't aware 18 for gas and 20 is flux. I figured the flux would have been labeled flux somewhere. Another amateur mistake.

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Modified some brackets and slopped them together for mounting the spare carrier in the tub. Moving it back an inch to use up the space that was once occupied by a 37. Good thing they don't have to be pretty

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Painted some stuff.

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Both your spools are listed as solid wire. Neither says flux core. Never seen Hobart spools mislabeled before.
 
Both your spools are listed as solid wire. Neither says flux core. Never seen Hobart spools mislabeled before.

My welder buddy told me the 18 is the designator for gas and the 20 is the designator for flux. A quick Google seems to confirm right from Hobart's website. If not, I'd love to know what the 18 and 20 stand for, as there is no other difference in the packaging.

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From Kobelco:
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Took my Jeep to get it's state inspection yesterday and it failed due to some body mount rusting (Don't think it's all of them, but I need to check them all over carefully now that I have daylight again to get a better picture of what level of rusting I'm dealing with). Not sure my next step yet but my Jeep may end up sitting for a while til I figure that out. Sadly I don't have welding gear or even a place to weld since I live in an apartment, but I'm not planning on getting rid of my Jeep if I can help it.

I do wonder the legality of going back every 15 days to get a new rejection sticker for the $1 fee to keep it legal to drive around in case I need it.
 
My welder buddy told me the 18 is the designator for gas and the 20 is the designator for flux. A quick Google seems to confirm right from Hobart's website. If not, I'd love to know what the 18 and 20 stand for, as there is no other difference in the packaging.

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From Kobelco:
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Well I learned something new today then. I always thought solid wire was the ER70S-6 and flux core was E71T-GS. I did not know you could get both solid and flux core in ER70S-6. Then again there are lots of things I don't know. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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I think I figured out where the noise in my HVAC is coming from 😂

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I just saw this, and thought to myself, "Self, could that be all that's causing the racket when I turn my A/C on the higher settings?"
Sure enough, I pulled the motor, and the squirrel cage was filled with leaves. Dumped them out, and now all I hear is air moving. Thanks for the heads up.
 
What's confusing me is both labels say SOLID wire.

My uneducated best guess is it has some flux baked into the material, not a core. Really hard to find much info online, I might reach out to Hobart to see what they say. If you search the part numbers online and read the Q&A at various retailers they all say it's not flux.

I bought the .20 a couple years ago and both the .18 and .20 were on the shelf yesterday, so I know it's not a labeling error or something. Bad enough they have the same UPC and are mixed up on the shelf. There's a full 2lb of the .20 in my Jeep's frame and axles now, welded on gas. From what I read welding flux on gas isn't a big deal and can actually produce a stronger weld, so at least I shouldn't have to worry about that.

Again, total amateur welder here.
 
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Installed new shocks, steering stabilizer, and bump stops all the way around.

Rides much better. Old shocks looked good until I got them off and realized they were shot. Bump stocks were melted away.

This is my 5-6 time to do this and it gets easier each time. Soaked all bolts for a couple of days prior. Took longer to find right sizes of sockets in my mess of a tool box.
 
New Denso radiator today. Came back from an errand Tuesday and saw fluid dripping on the garage floor. The top tank split just left of the top inlet. Easy install with the manual trans. PRO TIP: cut new threads in the shroud mounting holes with the self tapping screws before you install the radiator or you'll be sorry.

Old out.
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New in. Didn't lose a drop of coolant when draining and it was new so back in it went. Previously drilled the hole in the new thermostat so it self burped.
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts