Turn any old tablet into an Android Auto head unit

[Moab]

If you don't want to spend $1500 on a new head unit - this is fascinating. You can turn any old tablet into an Android Auto head unit.

*If you have an existing head unit with BT or an AUX input.

Apparently someone came out with an android app that allows you to plug an old tablet into your existing head unit. And run Android Unit from your phone:

"Headunit Reloaded tricks your phone into thinking your tablet is a wireless Android Auto receiver. Once you launch the app on your tablet, you can use Android Auto wirelessly.

However, it's important to note that it's not your tablet running maps or streaming media. If it were, you would have to deal with downloading offline maps, managing separate data plans, or fighting with mobile hotspot connections every time you turn the key. Headunit Reloaded acts strictly as a receiver.

It establishes a handshake with your phone, just like a factory-installed screen in any modern car. It's your phone that does all the heavy lifting—processing GPS, streaming data, and even rendering UI. Your five-year-old tablet is just a dumb touchscreen display."

*This is perfect for a Jeep TJ:

1) A tablet is cheap. Even a new one.

2) It can be easily mounted (Arkon makes a great mount for tablets that won't break the bank) that makes a tablet easy to remove and stow in a lock box or just take with you. This solves alot of security issues with a soft top. Or remote locations when you might want to leave your Jeep parked unattended.

3) Most current US brand head units run $1500+. (I don't know where this guy's finding a $300 Pioneer touchscreen head unit?!) Even a decent android head unit from China runs $500. (Although I could make an argument for older sub $100 "Android OS only" China head units being way easier to deal with.) Prior to this article I purchased a $500 android head unit from Duduauto-Mekede. One of the only android head units that offers it's own, regularly updated OS. With online support. I've installed several China android head units over the last 10 years. It can be easy peasy or a nightmare. It's a crap shoot. Using an old tablet like this avoids alot of configuration nightmares. Because few android head units even come with a manual. Let alone a menu structure that makes any sense.

4) This is basically a second screen for your phone. Which allows you to easily run anything and do anything you can with your phone. Which can sometimes be complicated or impossible with an android head unit. Mapping/navigation, OBD2 live engine data, video calls, YouTube, Spotify - basically anything you're doing now with your phone.

One caveat:

"Instead of connecting your Android phone to the car’s Bluetooth, connect your tablet using an AUX cable. This will put less stress on your phone, improve audio quality, and provide a more stable experience overall."

Not really an issue. You're already running a power cable to the tablet. One more small AUX cable to the head unit isn't that big of a deal.

The article gives step by step directions. This seems like a really great alternative to a new head unit. Affordable, maybe even cheap if you just have an old tablet laying around, and with a soft top this makes a lot of security sense.

This coupled with a cheap single din head unit, 4 new Polk marine speakers and a tablet - I'd argue this might be a step up from an android head unit and new speakers - for way less. And if you've got an old tablet this could be done for less than $500 for a complete new system.

I know many audiophiles have disagreed with this level of system. But for a vehicle with a soft top, and very little sound deadening, volume and clarity is a realistic goal - over audiophile level acoustics. And if you're like me, would rather spend a grand on actual off road upgrades - instead of chasing high level sound in a tin can with no top - this makes a lot of sense for many of us.

https://www.makeuseof.com/i-didnt-buy-a-new-car-stereo-used-this-app-on-old-android-tablet/

 

[GregBelleville]

This is interesting. I've been casually researching stereo upgrades for my 99 and I was interested in a double din head unit for running maps. I was quickly turned off by the high price of even the cheap Chinese brands.

One concern I have with this set up is that if I understand how it works, the tablet relies on a WiFi hotspot from your phone, but if you're off roading without cell coverage, then this wouldn't work? If so, that's a non starter for me.

 

[Moab]

This is interesting. I've been casually researching stereo upgrades for my 99 and I was interested in a double din head unit for running maps. I was quickly turned off by the high price of even the cheap Chinese brands.

One concern I have with this set up is that if I understand how it works, the tablet relies on a WiFi hotspot from your phone, but if you're off roading without cell coverage, then this wouldn't work? If so, that's a non starter for me.

Whatever you had already loaded on your phone or tablet would work. Any mapping software with data loaded - say a map file of the area you were travelling. Or live feed from an OBD2 scanner would still function as it's Bluetooth from engine to phone and then to your tablet. Any music or video files. Sopity allows you to download audio files for listening or watching while out of internet coverage.

But that's the same with any head unit. They all rely on your phone for an internet connection. A hotspot. You have to load maps, music or video files you wanted to watch or follow like in mapping. But that's common. The only way to do it.

Unless you invest in a Starlink Roam and connect it to your Jeep for power or a battery station. Then you have internet anywhere on earth.

The big difference is your using a tablet as a head unit. It's far cheaper and can easily be taken out and stowed. Or taken with you. And easily put right back in the tablet holder and connected with one or two cables.

If you already have a tablet and a head unit that is Bluetooth or AUX in. Your in business. This would have been a perfect solution for my '99 when I first installed my first android head unit. I had an older Kenwood single din head unit with AUX. And crappy original speakers. I put a set of Polk 5 inch and 6.5 inch speakers in IIRC. And it sounded great compared to what I had.

I'm currently installing a similar system into a new Suzuki Jimny (new version of the Suzuki Samurai) except I already bought the Duduauto7 head unit. Had I not already bought it - I'd for sure put my old Samsung tablet in. And give this a try. The stock head unit in my Suzuki is a POS. Like 15 yr old tech. Won't even connect enough to do Android Auto.

I'm replacing the stock (shitty) speakers with inexpensive Polk 5.25s (again - I've used these and JBLs in my TJ and JKU) that come with tweeters and crossovers and also bought an inexpensive Blaupunkt subwoofer.

With the TJ it made perfect sense. With a metal tub and soft top my only goal was enough volume and clarity to overcome road and engine noise. And the Polks more that accomplished that. I also didn't have the budget (more wanted to spend the money) on a premium sound system. I later did sound deadening on the TJ. Which helped massively. And I highly encourage anyone to do it. Just keep in mind it's a simple formula routinely way overdone by just about every stereo install I see online.

There are three materials CLD, CCF and MLV. CLD is the Butyl/alumnim Dynamat type stuff. It is not a sound blocker it only stops reverberation of metal panels. Like the difference between hitting a drum set cymbal as it rings a king time. Then hold it with your fingers and makes a dull clunk. 25% to 40% coverage only on large flat sheet metal areas of the tub and firewall is necessary. Anything more is a waste of money. And more importantly huge waste of added weight.

Then there is CCF and MLV. Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl. MLV is a sound blocker. And the CCF is a decoupler. It keeps the MLV from lying flat on the sheet metal or CLD which robs it of it's sound blocking ability. It's heavy rubber sheeting basically. And you only place it over the CLD on the bottom of the tub and firewall. That set of CLD, CCF and MLV will give you about 50% of sound and noise reduction. But even just CLD will deaden things a lot. Nine of those materials are very effective hear Shields and anyone that says differently (a common sales practice is full of shit). I didn't even use MLV. Just CLD and CCF like material and a heavy ACC carpet kit. It made my soft top TJ massively quieter. And I could actually hear the lyrics and a podcast in the freeway.

 

[TheBoogieman]

If you don't want to spend $1500 on a new head unit

That would never happen for me.

 

[Moab]

That would never happen for me.

You and me both! It's ridiculous. And it sure wouldn't be in a Jeep TJ with a soft top. But even in something nice I just don't see myself ever spending that much on a stereo. I think various industries have conned us into thinking we need to be continually in debt. Which is another subject altogether. And I have about 509 other things I'd rather spend an extra grand on.

Not to mention you'd get way better results spending half of that on sound deadening and half on a sound system. And you'd end up with far superior results.

Competing against all that road, engine and bare sheet metal reverberation is a losing battle. Not to mention your also trapping a great deal of that better stereo sound within the sound deadening. And better directing the sound inward towards the listener.

I admittedly overdid my sound deadening on my TJ. I didn't completely understand it at the time. (Like about 95% of mist guys.) And had gotten an excellent deal on a large batch of B grade end cut CLD sound deadener. So I had all this inexpensive high end material I thought I'd be wasting if I didn't use it. It's heavy stuff. And I probably added an additional 50 to 100lbs of unnecessary weight. With very little added benefit.

But sound deadening still has a dramatic effective in a Jeep TJ. Just CLD (at 25%-40% coverage) and a thick carpet (which is a very quick fix) makes things very noticeably quieter. Like "I can have a conversation at normal volume" quieter. And "I can actually hear lyrics on the highway now" - quieter.

Lastly, don't buy into high quality CLD. Or Dynamat. Watch one of the short videos on YT where guys put a small 2 inch square of CLD on a drum set cymbal. That's what CLD does to sheet metal in your Jeep. Probably half of the sound in your Jeep is reverberated sound hitting the bare sheet metal and echoing throughout the cab. The difference between 2mm and whatever thickness it goes up to is negligible. Unless your trying to quiet a Bentley or something it isn't worth the extreme mark up. But use real real butyl/aluminum sound deadener - not roofing seal or insulation. In most standard production vehicles your getting the largest part of the benefit with just cheap Amazon or Noico brand 2mm CLD.

95% of all sound deadening installs on YT are complete bullshit. And show 100% coverage which goes against even manufacturers specs and guidance. The installers either don't know what they are doing or are trying to convince you that buying an extra 100lbs of sound deadener isn't a complete waste of money. And worse yet added weight in a vehicle that is already starved for power when you start adding aftermarket bumpers, sliders winches etc. All of which is way more important than unnecessary sound deadener. That shit weighs alot! You'll be shocked if you ever lift a box of it. It's extremely heavy. That's basically how it does it's job. It dampens sound by weighing down a flexible piece of thin sheet metal.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

There are three materials CLD, CCF and MLV. CLD is the Butyl/alumnim Dynamat type stuff. It is not a sound blocker it only stops reverberation of metal panels. Like the difference between hitting a drum set cymbal as it rings a king time. Then hold it with your fingers and makes a dull clunk. 25% to 40% coverage only on large flat sheet metal areas of the tub and firewall is necessary. Anything more is a waste of money. And more importantly huge waste of added weight.

Then there is CCF and MLV. Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl. MLV is a sound blocker. And the CCF is a decoupler. It keeps the MLV from lying flat on the sheet metal or CLD which robs it of it's sound blocking ability. It's heavy rubber sheeting basically. And you only place it over the CLD on the bottom of the tub and firewall. That set of CLD, CCF and MLV will give you about 50% of sound and noise reduction. But even just CLD will deaden things a lot. Nine of those materials are very effective hear Shields and anyone that says differently (a common sales practice is full of shit). I didn't even use MLV. Just CLD and CCF like material and a heavy ACC carpet kit. It made my soft top TJ massively quieter. And I could actually hear the lyrics and a podcast in the freeway.

I did CLD + CCF on the floor of my TJ and put the carpet back and it made a pretty remarkable difference. But I also have a boom mat in the top of the hard top. I've cut the sound at 65mph from 83-85db before the boom mat to 70-72db now.

I have some old high end Focal speakers in the sound pods plus a nice pair from Infinity in the dash. I put those in about 15 years ago. I haven't run it with my soft top since I did the sound deadening in the floor and am curious about how it'll sound next summer.

As is, the stereo sound is much better at much lower volume levels. Obviously you can still crank it up. You can have a have a quiet conversation with your passenger at highway speed.

I've very recently done some 4mm CCF inside the window surround trim and center console and stuffed some dense egg crate foam into the parts of the dash along the top and an underhood liner (with a chunk of CLD). That was surprisingly effective at cutting wind, transmission and engine noise respectively.

The little bit of under hood liner on the front edge of the passenger side lines up to the side port of my talkative CAI but doesn't impede airflow.

 

[Moab]

As just an example this is a mock of 25%-40% CLD coverage on a roof. And an excellent example of 25% - 40% coverage on the interior of a Suzuki Jimny.

This is a video of how a small amount of CLD quiets a cymbal. Which gives you an idea of what it does to the sheet metal in a vehicle. And why so little of it is necessary.

The important thing to remember is ribbed or raised sections of sheet metal don't reverberate like that. Only flat sections have that ability. So it's only helpful to place it in the larger flat areas. Installations showing full coverage add little to no benefit beyond this 25%-40% coverage. And add a tremendous amount of weight. Likewise thicker heavier "premium" CLDs add little to no benefit as well. It simply isn't necessary.

MLV - mass loaded vinyl is the big sound deadener. It actually blocks sound. Is important not to adhere it to any surfaces, and place a layer of CCF under it to keep it away from making contact with the sheet metal surface. As that cancels out it's ability to block sound. Automotive MLV is quite expensive. But they do make similar construction MLV with about 50% the effectiveness. That is cheaper. But you also don't want MLV on vertical surfaces. Or ceilings - as it can't be adhered to ceiling panels and is unsafely heavy in those areas. And the highest noise areas along the bottom (floor and wheel wells) and the firewall. Mainly you just want it on the bottom of the tub, tunnel, wheelwells and firewall. Where a light coat of high temp spray adhesive only on the edges helps keep it in place. Or best is strips of high temp Velcro or high temp VHB tape along any hanging edges - if required to keep it in place. Like on the firewall or wheelwells. It's very heavy as well. But literally blocks noise.

This triple layer of CLD, CCF and MLV is the industry standard based on real manufacturing specs, guidelines and scientific testing. Anything else is very marginal in terms of sound deadening effect per dollar spent on material. But few highly professional installers waste their time making YouTube videos. But there are a few. Because it's so profitable to tout steep mark up products in this category and convince buyers of over coverage. Most show an outlandish amount of material and coverage.

Also none of these materials provide enough heat sheilding to be worth mentioning. One sales scam is to build up the heat sheilding characteristics as another attribute to justify 100% coverage. None of these block enough heat to make sense cost, weight or coverage wise. The amount of actual heat reduction is very minimal.

It really is a confusing, overly saturated industry. That is hard to test results for except actual manufacturer, scientifically tested specs. Which are hard to find. But there are a few YT channels that real professional installers have that go into detail about how these products actually work and how they should be used.

This is one of them: