Sliding rear pinion

[MT_Mike]

Have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, making some grinding noises in the back. Looks like pinion is sliding in and out of rear diff. Not good. This is probably beyond my skills, will possibly need new rear diff.

I live near Billings, Montana. Any suggestions for mechanics/shops where I should take this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[hear]

It's probably your bearing that is shot. It's not an impossible task by any stretch, but it does require some specialty tools. It's essentially the easier half of a re-gear job. Unlikely you're going to get any Montana-based recommendations, but any 4WD shop will be able to handle this task.

 

[Gilaguy23]

No time like the present to learn. Its not really hard, just messy cleaning out the gear oily crud. Lots of help here getting it done.

 

[hear]

No time like the present to learn. Its not really hard, just messy cleaning out the gear oily crud. Lots of help here getting it done.

Well, you do need a press, and either a bearing splitter/remover or a dremel to remove the old bearing. And a beam-style inch-lb torque wrench to set the preload (which it seems like not everyone actually does). But you are right, it's not actually hard.

 

[Gilaguy23]

True, but one could likely buy the tools needed from HF for less than a shop will charge to do bearings at a minimum. Cant never have e'fuff tools.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

You should be able to get all the parts from Denny's Driveshaft.

If the issue is the outer pinion bearing then it's fairly straightforward. I made a tool from a thick fender washer by shaving 2 sides off that slipped inside my outer pinion race. Then I used my various bearing tools to pull it out. If it's the inner or the inner is damaged then you'll need to pull the bearing off the pinion to replace it. Slightly trickier, but pressing a new bearing onto the pinion requires a big shop press. And perhaps a dial gauge to check backlash.

It's not as challenging as setting new gears. But if the inner bearing got screwed up, it's no cakewalk.

 

[MikeE024]

Well, you do need a press, and either a bearing splitter/remover or a dremel to remove the old bearing. And a beam-style inch-lb torque wrench to set the preload (which it seems like not everyone actually does). But you are right, it's not actually hard.

Why a beam style? I ask because I moved to click-types a few years ago (and trust the tactile feedback more than my eye). I planned on donating my beam style items.

 

[macleanflood]

Beam style is what folks use to measure continuous torque rather than static torque on a fastener. You're measuring bearing preload.

-Mac

 

[lumberjacklloyd]

Why a beam style? I ask because I moved to click-types a few years ago (and trust the tactile feedback more than my eye). I planned on donating my beam style items.

Every tool has it's place and I love split beam torque wrenches.

Dial or beam is needed because it is a measurement and not a torque. I use this; the important part is measuring in motion and not the static torque to get it moving.

 

[hear]

True, but one could likely buy the tools needed from HF for less than a shop will charge to do bearings at a minimum. Cant never have e'fuff tools.

100% true.

12 ton shop press - $130, but you can find on Marketplace for < $100

Clamshell bearing puller - $85

Beam style inch-lb wrench - $30

You could sell most of that back on marketplace when you're done, too.


But OP definitely needs to get a proper diagnosis first. If you start taking stuff apart, we can probably give you everything you need in that regard, as well as guiding you through the repair.