Side steps

JCTJ

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May 18, 2025
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10
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Tennessee
Idk what to do anymore on this pos

The previous owner did the frame repair kit on my TJ, which is why I got it so cheap, but in doing so they technically made the frame twice as thick RIGHT where I need to drill holes to mount OEM side steps.
I drilled and I drilled for over an hour to get two holes to test and the crappy u-bolts that mount the steps doesn’t even fit because shocker-the frame is too skinny now to fit the u-bolts

So next plan- I get body mounted steps without checking here first. First bolt I go to loosen goes POP and breaks with no real effort.

How do I mount steps without drilling into the body and doing tub mounted ones? Has anyone welded or mounted steps on a repaired frame? I’ve about had it with this jeep as everything I’ve done on it is 10x more complicated than it should be. That’s coming from someone that’s drove Audis for 10 years…
 
Tell me you never *worked* on your Audi without telling me you never worked on your Audi. 🤣

Trust me, working on your TJ is a walk in the park compared to anything of the same era or newer. I don’t have any advice on the steps, other than to say owning a TJ is a combination of the joy of driving with the doors off + a healthy dose of undoing what the PO did, either through your check book or elbow grease (and sometimes both!).
 
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Wow thanks for the advice.

Just bought new ones yesterday for this specifically… I am basically drilling a 9/16” hole through two frames sandwiched together in a tight space. I’ll keep it in mind next time

I'm aware. Not my first rodeo. Projects are a lot easier when you aren't fighting your tools and it takes an hour to drill holes.
 
I wouldn't throw the baby out with the bath water - this issue may be annoying but generally the TJ isn't a big deal to work on.

I'm personally not a fan of side steps of either variety, because neither location (body mount/frame) is where I want to change rigidity. But if I had to have them for some reason I'd be tempted to either just tuck a step stool attached to a string next to the seats or thread the frame for the frame mounted ones.

New drill bits only stay good if you don't overheat them. Did you take any brakes and use a cutting oil?
 
I wouldn't throw the baby out with the bath water - this issue may be annoying but generally the TJ isn't a big deal to work on.

I'm personally not a fan of side steps of either variety, because neither location (body mount/frame) is where I want to change rigidity. But if I had to have them for some reason I'd be tempted to either just tuck a step stool attached to a string next to the seats or thread the frame for the frame mounted ones.

New drill bits only stay good if you don't overheat them. Did you take any brakes and use a cutting oil?

I took some breaks because it’s so darn hot outside today. And yes I used the cutting oil I use on my drill press
 
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If the metal in that area is that thick, drill and tap to mount stock steps?
 
Are you saying the nut bottoms out on the U-bolts before becoming tight?

If so I have 2 solutions. 1) backer plate 2) cut more threads on the U-bolts.
 
Any photos might help. U bolts with OEM steps?

Yeah we need to see your required mount points

I put in side rockguard steps and drilled 8 fresh holes into the frame ea side with high cobalt bits.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C1RH1M8H?tag=wranglerorg-20

Took a good 10-15 mins per hole, after the mark and punch. I think I killed all 3 bits I bought off Amazon. I just stretched it out over a few days so I didnt get aggravated. First time doing this

Good bits and proper locations make this go alot easier
Id NEVER compare this to an Audi for difficulty
IMG_5089.jpeg
 
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Any photos might help. U bolts with OEM steps?

1750672063827.png

So the kit uses these instead of nutserts. The issue I’m having is that my frame is too skinny now and when I try to fish these in as they do in the video, the ubolt is physically too long to get it turned around in there. Kinda hard to explain and I am not near the jeep currently to show it
 
Yeah we need to see your required mount points

I put in side rockguard steps and drilled 8 fresh holes into the frame ea side with high cobalt bits.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C1RH1M8H?tag=wranglerorg-20

Took a good 10-15 mins per hole, after the mark and punch. I think I killed all 3 bits I bought off Amazon. I just stretched it out over a few days so I didnt get aggravated. First time doing this

Good bits and proper locations make this go alot easier
Id NEVER compare this to an Audi for difficulty
View attachment 626074

I’ve had a few Audis now and none of them have had any were near the issues this jeep has had. I’ve done lowering kits, transmission work, turbos, and plenty other things and never broke a bolt due to poor design on the manufacturers part. They are more “complicated” to work on and wrap your head around but the work is easier than this jeep in every way possible
 
View attachment 626086
So the kit uses these instead of nutserts. The issue I’m having is that my frame is too skinny now and when I try to fish these in as they do in the video, the ubolt is physically too long to get it turned around in there. Kinda hard to explain and I am not near the jeep currently to show it

9:45 into the video shows the guy fishing the ubolt in. My jeep frame is too skinny now to fit the u bolt in there like he does. It gets caught on the back wall and can’t turn back towards the front where the other hole is.
 
Wow thanks for the advice.

Just bought new ones yesterday for this specifically… I am basically drilling a 9/16” hole through two frames sandwiched together in a tight space. I’ll keep it in mind next time
Are you sure the drill isn’t running in reverse? Not joking…. Watched a old friend (not a friend anymore) try to drill a hole in wood with the bit running in reverse.. He was putting all his weight into the drill and it was.. well, you get the rest..

Are the holes you drilled through the frames safety cap? Nothing you did changed the INSIDE dimension of the frame rail. All you did was add thickness to the outside of the frame. I suspect the combination of the hole size and new wall thickness at the safety cap is preventing you from making the turn with the u-bold.. binding in the first hole. Maybe make that hole a little larger?
 
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Are you sure the drill isn’t running in reverse? Not joking…. Watched a old friend (not a friend anymore) try to drill a hole in wood with the bit running in reverse.. He was putting all his weight into the drill and it was.. well, you get the rest..

Are the holes you drilled through the frames safety cap? Nothing you did changed the INSIDE dimension of the frame rail. All you did was add thickness to the outside of the frame. I suspect the combination of the hole size and new wall thickness at the safety cap is preventing you from making the turn with the u-bold.. binding in the first hole. Maybe make that hole a little larger?

I think my strategy now is just to thread the hole I made and throw some grade 8 bolts in it and forget it. If it comes out im just gonna weld it to the frame lol