I'm surprised this isn't already here, but having just completed this job I figured I would do a writeup. BFH has a detailed video, mine is more of a wham/bam/thank you/ma'am. But also mine is for drums while it seems most of the other content out there is for disc brakes. The process isn't really any different, but if you don't know, you don't know. This is not a hard job by any stretch of the imagination, but it does require a shop press. I have the harbor freight 12 ton press that I got off FB marketplace for like $50. I use it more often than I thought I would.
Tools Required:
Jack/jack stands
9/16 socket + ratchet/impact
Shop press
Dremel or other small cutting tool
Cold chisel - the harbor freight set is EXTREMELY handy: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-cold-chisel-and-punch-set-66440.html
Sledgehammer
A slide hammer could be necessary.
Parts Required:
Timken SET10 bearing & collar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZ93HK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_H5VTA9YA2AA8SJW7RYD8
Timken 9912S seal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153XSXM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X4QKRVNNJFCD5PQ1KQZZ
A small amount of bearing grease
Removal
1. Jack up your Jeep. You're only going to do one side at a time, but you're going to want the other wheel up in the air later on. If you have it tilted where the side you're working on is more elevated you can avoid spilling gear oil out the tube after you remove the seal. FYI, you don't need the diff cover off for any of this project.
2. Remove the tire.
3. Remove the drum
4. Using the hole in the axle flange, remove each of the four 3/8 nuts with your 9/16 socket. You'll want to get new stover or nylock nuts. Don't re-use those nuts if you can avoid it, but if you do end up re-using them red loctite is advised. Lining up the hole for each of the bolts is easier if you have a helper rotate the other wheel.
5a. Yank out the axle. I didn't have any problem with this, but I've seen where people needed a slide hammer to get them free. The retaining plate likes to get hung up on the backing plate bolts, so you may need to caress it a bit. The brakes & backing plate can stay in place during all of this. But it's also not a terrible time to consider refreshing your 25 year old drum brake parts.
5b. Remove the race from the bore. It could require a slide hammer to knock it out; mine came out without much of a fight. The new bearing has a non removable race. The fact that the bearing comes out w/o the race is probably why you were doing this project in the first place.
Here is where the fun starts.
6a. Remove the bearing retainer collar. It's the thick steel ring. There are several ways to do this, including probably just pressing them off if you have the right tools. The most common method is to cut them off with a Dremel or equivalent, and then crack it with a cold chisel & slide it off. You'll want to avoid cutting into the axle surface, so cut down as close as you can, then stick your chisel in there and hit it with the sledge to crack it through.
6b. Remove the bearing cage. Again with the Dremel, although you don't have to crack it off. Usually a screwdriver or pliers will help wreck that thing.
6c. Remove the inner bearing cone. Same as 6a above, only this time you also have to contend with the shoulder that the bearing is pressed up against. Get as close and as deep as you can; it can be hard to tell if you're through the bearing & into the axle......don't cut into the axle. Just don't. Then it it with the chisel & slide it off.
Reassembly
It's super important that you have your act together when you go to re-assemble everything. The retaining plate must go on first, and you need to have it in the correct orientation. Once the bearing goes on there is no going back unless you want to cut that bearing back off again. For disc brakes, your retaining plate will have a lip on it, and that lip faces inboard. For drums you can either face the lip outward or buy (or re-use) the non-lipped retaining plate. I ended up re-using mine flipped over since it deforms slightly on install.
7a. put the retaining plate on the axle
7b. grease the lip of the seal, and slide it on the axle, all the way over the shoulder that the bearing will press against. You can probably see a small groove where the old seal rode for all those years. The metal face of the seal goes outboard, the side with the tensioning spring goes inboard.
7c. Next comes the bearing. The orientation for it is that the cone should be tapered inboard. The race doesn't separate from the bearing so make sure you get this part right. There is a lip on the race, this is the outboard side of the bearing.
8. Press on the bearing.
9. Press on the bearing retaining collar. Don't try to save steps by pressing both on at once. The retaining collar is a much tighter fit, so expect your press to fight back a little.
From here it's really just the reverse of the teardown procedure.
10. Slide the axle shaft with all the new parts back into the tube, splining into the differential carrier. You still don't need the diff cover off for this. The bearing & seal will go into the bore, but not fully yet.
11. Get the 4 bolts through the holes in the retaining plate. You may find that you need to push the bolts from the back of the brake backing plate as you push the plate over those bolts. Get each of the 4 bolts started, which can be a little hard with the brakes in the way.
12. Working iteratively, tighten down all 4 bolts to draw the retaining plate in, which has the side effect of seating the bearing/race & seal. You want to be sure to seat that plate evenly, so don't tighten one bolt down while the others are still super loose.
13. Torque the nuts down to 45 ft-lbs.
14. Replace the drum.
15. Replace the wheel & tighten the lugs.
16. Lower the Jeep.
17. Enjoy a Keystone Light.
Tools Required:
Jack/jack stands
9/16 socket + ratchet/impact
Shop press
Dremel or other small cutting tool
Cold chisel - the harbor freight set is EXTREMELY handy: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-cold-chisel-and-punch-set-66440.html
Sledgehammer
A slide hammer could be necessary.
Parts Required:
Timken SET10 bearing & collar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZ93HK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_H5VTA9YA2AA8SJW7RYD8
Timken 9912S seal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153XSXM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X4QKRVNNJFCD5PQ1KQZZ
A small amount of bearing grease
Removal
1. Jack up your Jeep. You're only going to do one side at a time, but you're going to want the other wheel up in the air later on. If you have it tilted where the side you're working on is more elevated you can avoid spilling gear oil out the tube after you remove the seal. FYI, you don't need the diff cover off for any of this project.
2. Remove the tire.
3. Remove the drum
4. Using the hole in the axle flange, remove each of the four 3/8 nuts with your 9/16 socket. You'll want to get new stover or nylock nuts. Don't re-use those nuts if you can avoid it, but if you do end up re-using them red loctite is advised. Lining up the hole for each of the bolts is easier if you have a helper rotate the other wheel.
5a. Yank out the axle. I didn't have any problem with this, but I've seen where people needed a slide hammer to get them free. The retaining plate likes to get hung up on the backing plate bolts, so you may need to caress it a bit. The brakes & backing plate can stay in place during all of this. But it's also not a terrible time to consider refreshing your 25 year old drum brake parts.
5b. Remove the race from the bore. It could require a slide hammer to knock it out; mine came out without much of a fight. The new bearing has a non removable race. The fact that the bearing comes out w/o the race is probably why you were doing this project in the first place.
Here is where the fun starts.
6a. Remove the bearing retainer collar. It's the thick steel ring. There are several ways to do this, including probably just pressing them off if you have the right tools. The most common method is to cut them off with a Dremel or equivalent, and then crack it with a cold chisel & slide it off. You'll want to avoid cutting into the axle surface, so cut down as close as you can, then stick your chisel in there and hit it with the sledge to crack it through.
6b. Remove the bearing cage. Again with the Dremel, although you don't have to crack it off. Usually a screwdriver or pliers will help wreck that thing.
6c. Remove the inner bearing cone. Same as 6a above, only this time you also have to contend with the shoulder that the bearing is pressed up against. Get as close and as deep as you can; it can be hard to tell if you're through the bearing & into the axle......don't cut into the axle. Just don't. Then it it with the chisel & slide it off.
Reassembly
It's super important that you have your act together when you go to re-assemble everything. The retaining plate must go on first, and you need to have it in the correct orientation. Once the bearing goes on there is no going back unless you want to cut that bearing back off again. For disc brakes, your retaining plate will have a lip on it, and that lip faces inboard. For drums you can either face the lip outward or buy (or re-use) the non-lipped retaining plate. I ended up re-using mine flipped over since it deforms slightly on install.
7a. put the retaining plate on the axle
7b. grease the lip of the seal, and slide it on the axle, all the way over the shoulder that the bearing will press against. You can probably see a small groove where the old seal rode for all those years. The metal face of the seal goes outboard, the side with the tensioning spring goes inboard.
7c. Next comes the bearing. The orientation for it is that the cone should be tapered inboard. The race doesn't separate from the bearing so make sure you get this part right. There is a lip on the race, this is the outboard side of the bearing.
8. Press on the bearing.
9. Press on the bearing retaining collar. Don't try to save steps by pressing both on at once. The retaining collar is a much tighter fit, so expect your press to fight back a little.
From here it's really just the reverse of the teardown procedure.
10. Slide the axle shaft with all the new parts back into the tube, splining into the differential carrier. You still don't need the diff cover off for this. The bearing & seal will go into the bore, but not fully yet.
11. Get the 4 bolts through the holes in the retaining plate. You may find that you need to push the bolts from the back of the brake backing plate as you push the plate over those bolts. Get each of the 4 bolts started, which can be a little hard with the brakes in the way.
12. Working iteratively, tighten down all 4 bolts to draw the retaining plate in, which has the side effect of seating the bearing/race & seal. You want to be sure to seat that plate evenly, so don't tighten one bolt down while the others are still super loose.
13. Torque the nuts down to 45 ft-lbs.
14. Replace the drum.
15. Replace the wheel & tighten the lugs.
16. Lower the Jeep.
17. Enjoy a Keystone Light.
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