Hello All, I'm a newbie to the Jeep community. I just purchased a 1999 TJ with the intent of doing a full rebuild and have an issue with trying to identify the rear diff. I suspect it's been swapped out. I have the Dana Spicer parts catalog for 1999 - 2011 but the numbers don't match up...they do for the front but not the rear. The rear diff cover has the following: 43225 264 8 REV K 02 27 97 and the cover bolt tag is 52111763AB 73 5993-7. Am I right that it is a 1997 Dana 35 with a gear ratio of 3:73? I sure hope it's a 3:73 because that is what the front is which I've confirmed. Any links to sites that can help identify would also be appreciated. Thanks!! If anyone wants the link for the Dana Spicer catalog let me know and I'll provide it.
Rear Diff Identification
- Thread starter MarkAllan
- Start date
Unlikely to be a 97 diff unless it came out of a 2.5L 3-speed auto. But it doesn’t really matter what it’s from as long as you have matching gears.
That's what I was thinking, were it can from is somewhat irrelevant. But like you said it's about matching gears. So that's what I need to confirm.
Perfect.Thank you!! I also did find more info and it is the original diff and it is a 3:73.
I'm a newbie here so I haven't figured out how to attached pictures yet...Anyways, it all worked out as I was able to retrieve more info...the diff is original and it is a 3:73. so all good!! Thank you for your reply!!
We'd love to see the rest of the Jeep! A few pictures of the suspension setup, drag link and track bars and the like and we might be able to help with some suggestions!
-Mac
-Mac
This (picture) is it exactly as I bought it a month ago. 4.0L 5 spd. Completely stock with zero mods. The previous owner was going to put in a 3 inch lift which he purchased but never installed so I got that too. It's Zone Off Road lift kit complete with all four shocks. My only question before I start installing it is, the stock front sway bar connector has an offset to meet with the sway bar (see picture) however the one in the lift kit is straight. I'm thinking that shouldn't be an oversight on the lift manufactures part but will it not put an offset stress on the connection ends?
As far as other questions: I dropped the fuel tank to switch out the skid plate...looks like the original fuel pump is still in it and was wondering if I should just change it while I have the tank out or just leave it as it's not that hard to drop the tank 289k klm (180k miles)....also wondering a good pump to switch it with if I do switch it?
The frame and tub are solid but, what is a good product to stop the rust and then what to use as a coating to preserve? The fuel tank skid plate was rotted out as you can see in the picture but everything else is solid...pictures to follow.
Oofta on the rust! Glad you swapped it out. Most folks think the original Mopar fuel pumps are the holy Grail. I'd stick with it and run with it...now that you've dropped the tank it's not hard. The resources section has a how to on taking apart the pump assembly to individually swap the pump and regulator since a new Mopar is no longer available. My pump cage on my 97 was so brittle from age I bought the cheapest pump assembly on Rock Auto...a Brute Power for $85. Been good all summer through a road trip from Oregon to the Rubicon Trail and home and plenty in between.
Track bar needs to be parallel with the drag link to avoid bump steer. I have a 4" lift. I used Currie/Rock Jocks CorrectLync steering bars and their adjustable front and rear track bars (with the rear relocation bracket so I could rotate the rear pinion up with upper adjustable control arms to get rid of vibrations after installing a slip Yoke Eliminator and double cardin Adams Driveshafts.)
Look in the resources section and how to sections for some great reads on how to lift your Jeep, and the factory service manuals.
Welcome to the forum!
-Mac
Track bar needs to be parallel with the drag link to avoid bump steer. I have a 4" lift. I used Currie/Rock Jocks CorrectLync steering bars and their adjustable front and rear track bars (with the rear relocation bracket so I could rotate the rear pinion up with upper adjustable control arms to get rid of vibrations after installing a slip Yoke Eliminator and double cardin Adams Driveshafts.)
Look in the resources section and how to sections for some great reads on how to lift your Jeep, and the factory service manuals.
Welcome to the forum!
-Mac
Thanks Mac, I'm just starting down the Jeep rabbit hole and so far I'm hooked on it's simplicity..I just wish it had a carburetor and no computer..even simpler. I've started on the back end first with the fuel skid plate, brake drums and shoes, rear diff inspection and fluid change, and the rear lift kit components installed. Once that is done I'll turn it around in the garage and start on the front....lots I want to do on that end. I don't have any tapping or ticking noises yet other than the exhaust leak from the cracked exhaust manifold, which is on the list, but I was thinking I'll do a compression test and use the bore camera to get a sense of the condition of the engine...I will drop the oil and maybe send a sample off the the analysis lab and a metal content report. I suspect a slow rad leak but it's being a bit elusive..sometimes with the tester the pressure drops and other times it doesn't. I'll do the rotors and brakes, the front diff inspection, pinion seal and fluid change, same for the transmission and transfer case. When I do the exhaust manifold I'll change the motor mounts at the same time. Any tips on preventing manifold cracks? Seems it's a common thing.
Here's a blistering read on carburetors and TJs:
I too had a cracked manifold. Replaced mine with a Banks torque tube manifold. Kind of wish I had done a cheap Amazon/eBay version...1/3 of the price and with no warranty I wouldn't have hesitated to cut off the donut flange and replace it with a v-band. I also made a custom downpipe with a v-band in front of my skid plate and cat and a flex coupler just in front of the pan. That lets me drop the exhaust section covering the oil pan without dropping the skid plate. Came in handy here:
Head gaskets are easy on our earlier TJs because of our single cat besides the transfer case. I did the neighbor's 04 WJ and spent two hours taking apart the dual cats next to the engine and an hour doing the head gasket. 4.0s are cool because there's no rocker adjustment. Just torque it to spec and more or less done.
Not that you need a head gasket...but easy enough to do. The Felpro kit includes everything from a thermostat housing gasket to throttle body and rocker cover and a high quality MLS head gasket. I used copper gasket spray in lieu of proper machine shop work. =)
-Mac
I too had a cracked manifold. Replaced mine with a Banks torque tube manifold. Kind of wish I had done a cheap Amazon/eBay version...1/3 of the price and with no warranty I wouldn't have hesitated to cut off the donut flange and replace it with a v-band. I also made a custom downpipe with a v-band in front of my skid plate and cat and a flex coupler just in front of the pan. That lets me drop the exhaust section covering the oil pan without dropping the skid plate. Came in handy here:
Head gaskets are easy on our earlier TJs because of our single cat besides the transfer case. I did the neighbor's 04 WJ and spent two hours taking apart the dual cats next to the engine and an hour doing the head gasket. 4.0s are cool because there's no rocker adjustment. Just torque it to spec and more or less done.
Not that you need a head gasket...but easy enough to do. The Felpro kit includes everything from a thermostat housing gasket to throttle body and rocker cover and a high quality MLS head gasket. I used copper gasket spray in lieu of proper machine shop work. =)
-Mac
Here's a blistering read on carburetors and TJs:
I too had a cracked manifold. Replaced mine with a Banks torque tube manifold. Kind of wish I had done a cheap Amazon/eBay version...1/3 of the price and with no warranty I wouldn't have hesitated to cut off the donut flange and replace it with a v-band. I also made a custom downpipe with a v-band in front of my skid plate and cat and a flex coupler just in front of the pan. That lets me drop the exhaust section covering the oil pan without dropping the skid plate. Came in handy here:
Head gaskets are easy on our earlier TJs because of our single cat besides the transfer case. I did the neighbor's 04 WJ and spent two hours taking apart the dual cats next to the engine and an hour doing the head gasket. 4.0s are cool because there's no rocker adjustment. Just torque it to spec and more or less done.
Not that you need a head gasket...but easy enough to do. The Felpro kit includes everything from a thermostat housing gasket to throttle body and rocker cover and a high quality MLS head gasket. I used copper gasket spray in lieu of proper machine shop work. =)
-Mac
I was thinking of cutting off the donut flange as well but just using a flex coupler....I haven't even crawled under there yet with a mind set of making those changes so I'm not sure what is doable, so I appreciate your suggestions. I think I'll back-burner the no computer modification for now...I appreciate the blistering read! I was thinking of taking the head off for lapping valves, valve stem seals (those can be done without pulling the head but easier doing it on the bench) was thinking I would decide on that after the compression test and camera inspection. I have to do the exhaust manifold which means taking off the intake manifold and if you've done all that then it's only a couple dozen more bolts and nuts and the head is off. Kind of hoping for a weak cylinder so I can do a top end rebuild. My last rebuild was a 6 cylinder pancake out of a Subaru...those are extremely interesting engines..but the rings and cylinders all wear out on the bottom faster because of gravity...but still a very cool engine. I'll check out your youtube content!! Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!! Always nice to chat with someone that's been there, done that on the path I'm just starting.
My YouTube channel is mostly entertainment and entirely a warning to others. If you want solid how to TJ videos check out @hosejockey61 BFH Garage https://youtube.com/@thebfhgarage
Although I don't think there's a head video.
DeXJ has some great quick and dirty 4.0 refresh videos. https://youtube.com/@dexjs
Don't forget the head bolts are torque to yield.
Timing chain (which also leads to water pump, fan clutch and hoses), possibly a rear main seal (two piece installed by removing the oil pan and removing the rear bearing cap.) But if your RMS is not leaking much don't touch it.
One thing Jeeps and Subarus have in common is the ability to articulate the hood all the way to the windshield frame without removal. Boxer engines are certainly interesting. Never dropped a subframe but it looks simple enough.
-Mac
Although I don't think there's a head video.
DeXJ has some great quick and dirty 4.0 refresh videos. https://youtube.com/@dexjs
Don't forget the head bolts are torque to yield.
Timing chain (which also leads to water pump, fan clutch and hoses), possibly a rear main seal (two piece installed by removing the oil pan and removing the rear bearing cap.) But if your RMS is not leaking much don't touch it.
Hey all, sorry for the overkill but thought I'd write up what I did after I successfully sealed my RMS. I have totalled three attempts over the year and thought I'd talk about the differences and what has and hasn't worked.
Attempt 1: July 2022, Felpro RMS, 3mm offset, RTV on RMS ends, Anaerobic Sealant used, small amount. This attempt held initially for a couple days. I then went on a camping trip, returned home after a week and it was consistently tripping.
Attempt 2: August 2022, Victor Reinz RMS, no offset, RTV on RMS ends, Anaerobic used, large amount. This...
Attempt 1: July 2022, Felpro RMS, 3mm offset, RTV on RMS ends, Anaerobic Sealant used, small amount. This attempt held initially for a couple days. I then went on a camping trip, returned home after a week and it was consistently tripping.
Attempt 2: August 2022, Victor Reinz RMS, no offset, RTV on RMS ends, Anaerobic used, large amount. This...
One thing Jeeps and Subarus have in common is the ability to articulate the hood all the way to the windshield frame without removal. Boxer engines are certainly interesting. Never dropped a subframe but it looks simple enough.
-Mac
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