Rear bar flag nut kit

[Charlie L]

Does anyone know if there is a rear bar flag nut kit made for a 2006 TJ? All I can find are ones that are for '84 to '01. I'm replacing my rear shocks and the bolts are not going to come out without the heads snapping off. Just looking for an alternative that does 't require welding.

 

[someguysjeep]

Does anyone know if there is a rear bar flag nut kit made for a 2006 TJ? All I can find are ones that are for '84 to '01. I'm replacing my rear shocks and the bolts are not going to come out without the heads snapping off. Just looking for an alternative that does 't require welding.

does the jeep have a body lift by any chance?

 

[Charlie L]

I think it has a 1" lift, max 1 1/2"

 

[WestCoastDan]

There is a "bar pin eliminator" that bolts in place of the original nuts, but you have to get the welded nuts (and their captive bolt shafts) off the frame plate before it can be used.
Also, I tried these when I replaced the original shocks... and my advice is a strong "DON'T BOTHER".

They actually create more problems than they resolve.
1- They still need to be bolted in place, so that means removing the weld nuts and figuring out a means to secure the pin eliminators to the frame. I did this with "panel nuts", and I believed my issues would soon be gone.

How wrong I was.

2- Once secured in place, the pin eliminators actually move the pivot point of the upper shock mount DOWN by about 1.5". Shouldn't be a big deal, right? WRONG! This movement actually creates a nightmare for the rear shocks by decreasing the distance that the shock can travel (expand and compress).
3- Removing the bar pin from your new, original length, original-style, replacement shocks further reduces the amount of travel that they will allow. Couple this with the new position of the upper mount and you have a recipe for a really shitty rear suspension setup.
Our shocks bottomed out on even the slightest bumps and rode like an old hay wagon.
4- Bottom line; If you plan on any revision to the rear, upper shock mounting, do your homework and make certain that the shocks you use are appropriately sized to avoid the headache that I ended up fighting.

I ended up replacing the entire suspension with a 2.5" lift kit to correct these issues 'once and for all'.

I should have simply used the panel nuts to secure the replacement shock mounts and been done for less than $10.

 

[someguysjeep]

if the body is lifted it's not hard to get behind those rear fender liners and shoot your lubricant on top of that cross member where those bolts go through.............it's better if you soak it from that side.

 

[Charlie L]

does the jeep have a body lift by any chance?

PO says 1 1/4" lift

if the body is lifted it's not hard to get behind those rear fender liners and shoot your lubricant on top of that cross member where those bolts go through.............it's better if you soak it from that side.

I pulled the tire and was able to soak them with pb blaster. I gave them a shot every 15min and waited 2hrs before I tried them, no luck.

 

[someguysjeep]

PO says 1 1/4" lift

I pulled the tire and was able to soak them with pb blaster. I gave them a shot every 15min and waited 2hrs before I tried them, no luck.

try shot every few hrs wait couple dys. some might argue PB isn't the best penetrant.

i busted 2 doin mine had to drill out what was left, i blew right threw the nuts and opened them enough the new bolt went right through, then i taped the nuts to a long wrench and snuck it in there and cranked them down tight right on the remnants of the old crap.

 

[Charlie L]

There is a "bar pin eliminator" that bolts in place of the original nuts, but you have to get the welded nuts (and their captive bolt shafts) off the frame plate before it can be used.
Also, I tried these when I replaced the original shocks... and my advice is a strong "DON'T BOTHER".

They actually create more problems than they resolve.
1- They still need to be bolted in place, so that means removing the weld nuts and figuring out a means to secure the pin eliminators to the frame. I did this with "panel nuts", and I believed my issues would soon be gone.
View attachment 322100
How wrong I was.

2- Once secured in place, the pin eliminators actually move the pivot point of the upper shock mount DOWN by about 1.5". Shouldn't be a big deal, right? WRONG! This movement actually creates a nightmare for the rear shocks by decreasing the distance that the shock can travel (expand and compress).
3- Removing the bar pin from your new, original length, original-style, replacement shocks further reduces the amount of travel that they will allow. Couple this with the new position of the upper mount and you have a recipe for a really shitty rear suspension setup.
Our shocks bottomed out on even the slightest bumps and rode like an old hay wagon.
4- Bottom line; If you plan on any revision to the rear, upper shock mounting, do your homework and make certain that the shocks you use are appropriately sized to avoid the headache that I ended up fighting.

I ended up replacing the entire suspension with a 2.5" lift kit to correct these issues 'once and for all'.

I should have simply used the panel nuts to secure the replacement shock mounts and been done for less than $10.

I'll take your advice and not bother with that fix. I'm not ready for a lift yet, I'm old and like to stay close to the ground.

 

[WestCoastDan]

try shot every few hrs wait couple dys. some might argue PB isn't the best penetrant.

i busted 2 doin mine had to drill out what was left, i blew right threw the nuts and opened them enough the new bolt went right through, then i taped the nuts to a long wrench and snuck it in there and cranked them down tight right on the remnants of the old crap.

All 4 of mine broke off with minimal effort following 3-4 days of being soaked w/ PB Blaster.
In hindsight, I should have just drilled through the original nuts like you did and it would have saved me the cost of the lift kit!

It would have meant that i had to drop the gas tank to get access though, so I did manage to dodge that bullet!

But then I wouldn't have this nice TJ setup.

 

[someguysjeep]

All 4 of mine broke off with minimal effort following 3-4 days of being soaked w/ PB Blaster.
In hindsight, I should have just drilled through the original nuts like you did and it would have saved me the cost of the lift kit!

It would have meant that i had to drop the gas tank to get access though, so I did manage to dodge that bullet!

But then I wouldn't have this nice TJ setup.

if you're gonna own a TJ, a body lift is the best bang for your $. wheel space that doesn't effect suspension and makes accessing tight spots and tucking things much easier for us.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Does anyone know if there is a rear bar flag nut kit made for a 2006 TJ? All I can find are ones that are for '84 to '01. I'm replacing my rear shocks and the bolts are not going to come out without the heads snapping off. Just looking for an alternative that does 't require welding.

They will work on a TJ too. I used them on mine, after purposely snapping off my remaining rear shock upper bolts and popping them out with an impact hammer (under a minute each).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CDP7VGH/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Charlie L]

They will work on a TJ too. I used them on mine, after purposely snapping off my remaining rear shock upper bolts and popping them out with an impact hammer.

I'm a little hesitant to do this, but if they worked for you I'll give"em a try. Nothing to lose but time and I've got plenty of that.

 

[B34C0N]

try shot every few hrs wait couple dys. some might argue PB isn't the best penetrant.

i busted 2 doin mine had to drill out what was left, i blew right threw the nuts and opened them enough the new bolt went right through, then i taped the nuts to a long wrench and snuck it in there and cranked them down tight right on the remnants of the old crap.

I find the decking screw driver super useful here to. The tiny impact won't round the built but worked it free over time for me