No crank, no start, but with a twist! (help and ideas wanted)

[Swedenboundanddown]

Hello

Car has been off battery and not driven for about six months, battery has been maintainly charged during this period.

Got the car together and got it inspected and it was good to go.

Used it almost everyday for one, two weeks. Some start and stops, didnt even stutter when I turned the key.

Then one day, I have been out doing some stops at places, took it to a carwash, picked gf up etcetera. We went to the pet shop and got out and tried to start. Nothing. Everything lit up, stuff turned on but no crank when I turned the key. Tried a battery booster because I thought one of the cables to the battery was a bit loose but no.

Got towed home

Checked the forum and went out checking stuff if its loose or poor connection orderd a new ignition switch and a acutator pin (arriving on friday I think).
Unhook the battery and went inside.

Today I went out, put the battery on and turn the key ”just to make sure” and the car started. Like nothing was wrong.

I need ideas for what was happening and how to prevent it. Is it the PCM starting to give up? Did I get something wet while washing the car? Is it some sort of really getting too hot? Is there a ground spot that might need a closer look at? All ideas are welcome.

Thanks!

 

[Swedenboundanddown]

Just noticed that the car doesent beep angerly at me for not taking my keys out when I turned it off. Is there something to check about that?

 

[TokenJo]

Was that the first trip through the car wash? Seems like something electrical related got wet then tried out?

 

[fizzlebottom]

Sounds like the actuator pin to me. You have one on the way, so get that installed and see how it goes. Mine left me stranded in a grocery store lot and sound similar to what yours is doing. Gave me trouble once or twice, then successfully started eventually, and then gave up completely.

It isn't too bad to install but parts can be mighty tight and finicky during reassembly. I may be remembering wrong, but I think I did have to very lightly shave something down to make things fit. That's what we get for having to rely on aftermarket parts sometimes.

 

[Swedenboundanddown]

Was that the first trip through the car wash? Seems like something electrical related got wet then tried out?

Well, it was the second and it was my thought too. I was checking the engine bay for says of the water comming in connection with electrical stuffs but couldnt find something. And I did NOT powerwash the engine
I did have all the relays and fuses up and had some WD-40 on them.

Sounds like the actuator pin to me. You have one on the way, so get that installed and see how it goes. Mine left me stranded in a grocery store lot and sound similar to what yours is doing. Gave me trouble once or twice, then successfully started eventually, and then gave up completely.

It isn't too bad to install but parts can be mighty tight and finicky during reassembly. I may be remembering wrong, but I think I did have to very lightly shave something down to make things fit. That's what we get for having to rely on aftermarket parts sometimes.

Thanks. I really hope its this easy too. I really wanna enjoy the car before the swedish summer is gone.
I got the parts from summit and they look like the OME parts. Atleast on the pictures.

 

[hear]

on a no-crank I'm always immediately suspicious of the negative battery cable and the neutral safety switch. I never think ignition, probably only because I've yet to have that particular problem. But it stands to reason. To crank you need 3(?) things:

1. ignition to tell everything to start doing things
2. NSS to complete the circuit
3. Solid battery connections

A strong battery isn't even really a hard requirement. A low battery can still often times give you that initial CLUNK of the solenoid trying to fire the starter.

 

[Swedenboundanddown]

on a no-crank I'm always immediately suspicious of the negative battery cable and the neutral safety switch. I never think ignition, probably only because I've yet to have that particular problem. But it stands to reason. To crank you need 3(?) things:

1. ignition to tell everything to start doing things
2. NSS to complete the circuit
3. Solid battery connections

A strong battery isn't even really a hard requirement. A low battery can still often times give you that initial CLUNK of the solenoid trying to fire the starter.

My battery is not a quality one, but it have not shown any signs of having problem earlier. And when I was having my ctek charger the whole winter it didnt give any fault codes so im gonna think its okay. But its a good point!


Uppdate on the issue:

The acuator pin was in order and not broken, but I changed it anyway. And also the ignition lock switch.
Upon putting the keys in for the first test i got my break-indicator on the dashboard comming up.
”Wierd” I thought, the handbrake wasnt even pulled - pulled it and the light came off
While I was sitting there thinking I saw some smoke comming out behind the button for the hazardlight.

Changed the switch back to the original one and everything behave like normal and the car start up fine.

Question:

This is the one I order:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-4565326/make/jeep/model/wrangler/year/1997
Was it just for automatics? Is there another for manual ones?
Or was it just a too cheap one?

Thanks!

 

[hear]

if you thought you smelled smoke, my next course of action would be to remove the necessary pieces to be able to see more....and then try to recreate the smoke. Yeah, that's maybe not the safest, but that's what fire extinguishers are for.

The one time I achieved an unrequested smoke release in my dash area, I discovered that somebody had put a 30A fuse on a 10A circuit. I would probbaly actually check that first. The fuses are sized such that the fuse will blow before the wires melt, so you may have some wiring fun in your future.

 

[Swedenboundanddown]

I had some time off from the garage but went out trying to find why I still have the ”no crank, no start with smoke” and I found out this:


Its the black and grey one from the ignition switch. I dont think its the culprit but I hope it has something to do with it atleast…

It goes to the parking brake switch and the brake warning switch and the last component I cant find. Anyone knows?
Page 8w-30-7 in the FSM.

 

[CharlesHS]

Those blue and yellow plastic components crimped onto the wiring are ScotchLocs and are the worst way to make electrical connections.
The ScotchLoc cuts into the wire and are known to break several strands of the wire which will cause intermittent or broken electrical connections.
The ScotchLoc may not cause a broken connection right now, but in the future they will.
My recommendations would be to remove the ScotchLocs and inspect the damage to the wiring; repair the damage wiring.
Check the electrical connection in the yellow wire with blue crimp connector.

When I purchased my '01 5 years ago; the previous owner had wired in (2) 30A relays under the dash board that were activated with the headlight circuit as a form of Security (Anti theft). I removed the relays, reconnected the ignition circuit and purchased the factory SKIM system for Anti theft.

 

[hear]

Definitely verify your fuses are the right size.