ATF+4 fluid

[menezes05tj]

Hi There so, for my 2005 auto sport 4.0 do I have to use chrysler fluid or can I use ie Mobil
ATF+4 synthetic or another synthetic from another brand. Chrysler ATF+4 pretty Pricy ...
Already got the chrysler factory filter from market place great deal but the oils not cheap. I'll buy Chrysler oil if I have to np but I'm looking at a cheaper option. Any down side to NOT using chrysler ATF+4?

Thanks guys..

 

[Apparition]

I buy valvoline from Walmart

 

[DuckNut]

If the spec is "ATF+4" then use that. Name on the bottle is not as important as the contents.

 

[menezes05tj]

Ahh ...thanks! One mechanic said it had to be from chrysler..

 

[JKP]

It just has to be licensed ATF+4, any brand.

 

[hear]

Ahh ...thanks! One mechanic who severely marks up the name brand stuff uses said it had to be from chrysler..

FTFY

I've used PLENTY of the Walmart non-Valvoline ATF+4 (I can't remember the name on the jug at the moment, but they don't sell it in gallon jugs), and also the house brand from O'Reilly, which does come in a gallon jug. I probably have more data here than most, but certainly not enough data to definitively say it's all good.....

.....but it's all good.

 

[menezes05tj]

Great thanks guys, Ok so to follow up I'm going to pull the trigger on buying a aftermarket Doorman trans pan with the Fel pro gasket. I like the fact that it has a drain plug and in doing some research on the net I read that for the last couple years of the TJ they made a deeper trans pan as an upgrade. May have read the article on this forum. Anyway anyone on her have experience with the Doorman trans pan? if you pull the drain plug only was wondering how many quarts (litres for us ) drains out?

One more question.. I know its been beat to death on here but It would be interesting to know if someone in the same situation as me.
So 2005 4.0 TJ sport 213,000km, that's 133,125 miles.. 42RLE auto, runs great original trans ( non rebuilt) ,no shifting issues or leaks. My driving style is very conservative, I don't beat on it, no rock crawling or trails, no lift bought from original owner who maintained well. But before I got it she had a trans cooling line leak and had it towed. No fluid when pulled the dip stick so dealer only put in 4 litres I guess and all good, fluid still clean but no record of when she changed the filter ..hence the above. OH, I do have a wrangler fix computer in now for almost a year. The only thing I don't like is the buzzing of the solenoids when I put in gear. so I what until it stops which is a second then I start moving . I read here somewhere that's normal.

Given the above info, and me know gonna change the filter with an OEM Mopar one I got cheap and Doorman pan, how long can I expect the trans to last. Its not a daily driver, just a weekend cruiser beach runner, city ,highway combined driver. I have read bad things about the trans and they're unreliability and why.
But as someone else posted on her a while back i stumbled upon they said its like the OPDA, you always here the bad stuff there still lots of higher mileage vehicles with original OPDA and tranny.. Sorry for the long thread but I feel the more detail the better. do any of you have higher than normal mileage with the original 42RLE automatic still in your rig?

Not really looking for opinions although they are welcome, just more facts from actual higher mileage ..

 

[hear]

It’s hard to say, because running it hot will shorten the lifespan of things, and there’s no temp gauge (unless you added one). So you don’t really know how much wear you actually have put on the thing.

 

[menezes05tj]

I see, makes sense, what would be a cost effective bolt on trans cooler and are they difficult to do?

 

[hear]

I see, makes sense, what would be a cost effective bolt on trans cooler and are they difficult to do?

I'm not a 42RLE expert, and I always get bitchslapped when I answer from a 32RH perspective. However, they aren't super hard to install, the trick is where to mount it. I was able to weld some tabs onto my radiator brace hoop thing and mount it there, but there are other options I'm sure. And then a little bit of hose work to route the fluid through the cooler. I used a Hayden I got off amazon with great results.

If you're changing out the pan I think most here would recommend you take this opportunity to install a temp sensor in the pan, and then add a temp gauge somewhere. There are a handful of threads here on those options, and I believe Blaine will even braze a fitting onto your pan for pretty cheap.

 

[mrblaine]

I see, makes sense, what would be a cost effective bolt on trans cooler and are they difficult to do?

Get a bung in the pan, run the temp gauge first to see where you are. If it is tolerable but staying around 230ish on the highway, you may be able to get by with a cost effective option. If you are like us here in SoCal where they tend to run 240ish plus, then the cost effective options is not as easy to use.

 

[hear]

Get a bung in the pan, run the temp gauge first to see where you are. If it is tolerable but staying around 230ish on the highway, you may be able to get by with a cost effective option. If you are like us here in SoCal where they tend to run 240ish plus, then the cost effective options is not as easy to use.

what is the non-cost effective option?

 

[mrblaine]

what is the non-cost effective option?

The Setrab slimline race cooler in the grill.